VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - GENERAL Electrical - 6 volt 1941 Voltage Regulator

Sorry but the search thingee failed me again.

I need to get a new voltage regulator for the 41 Cab. The oldest parts book I have (1929-48) lists a "201" for 41-48.

I keep thinking that for 1941 it was a "301."

I think Gene once posted that it was a 302 but may have been 201. I'm probably wrong owing to tired brain cells. You know.

Anyway before I order the wrong one can someone tell me the regulator number that is correct. If I ever have the car judged it will loose enough points owing to accessories. No use losing points over a voltage regulator as well, especially since that can easily be prevented.

Please help me nail this down once and for all. I promise not to ask again.

Gene, Ray, all the Mikes, and Chipper, et al.

Best,

Charlie

If it helps, the 309 was the later 3 terminal replacement that could be used "back" to the 1938 so very good chance it may have been the original for the 1941. Try some searches for that but obviously double check before buying 3 on ebay...

The last number for replacement was 1118301

It would have had 1118201 from the factory. Look at the spec. sheet.

Ok, if I understand it correctly the 41's original voltage regulator was a 201 and the replacement would have been a 301. The 301 would have been for a 49 or later owing to the 201s listing in the 29-48 parts catalog..

Do I have this right?

Thanks,

Charlie

Here is a picture I saved from ebay several years ago. It is of a 1118201. If you look closely you can see "201" on the flange.



.

Yes. The 301 came on the '49's.

The "improvement" was internal adjusting now could be made with screws rather then bend a tab, Delco still makes a replacement today but the cover screw location has changed.....

Thanks Gene. That's good to know.

Judging question for anyone: Would a knowledgable judge(s) take points off a 41 owing to the regulator being a "301" rather than the original "201"?

bloo, I sent you a PM.

Thanks everyone,

Charlie

There is no way in hxxl they would know.

But Charlie.....now we ALL know.

Mike

Well, yeah, now they do. Thanks a lot!

Not to worry though, if I have a "201" on the critter, I'm gonna post a note right beside it pointing out to the judge(s) that mine is correct and that they should check out all the others they run across to make sure they're not trying to sneak a "301" by them. Original should always trump replacement, shouldn't it?: At the bottom of the note I will quote Gene's comment referencing their ineptitude. Yep!

Just kidding but I'll think of something.

It's my take that the "301" will serve just fine. If not I'll write a note expressing my feelings of displeasure of having been mislead and then tie it to a brickbat and toss it through Gene's front window. : :bike

Best,

Charlie

BTWL Keep it up and you may replace Gene for the honor of the above mentioned special delivery. You know.

Follow up,

I've got a "201" that works but only when feels like it. When hooked up it causes the needle on the amp gage to jump around (flutter, show charge, discharge (all sporadically) and/or do nothing.)

Question: Can the points be rubbed with something to clean them? It acts to me like they (points) are rusty or dirty or something that will cause the above mentioned fluctuations

Any advice would be helpful.

Best,

Charlie

BTW: I ordered a new RV-1 and it works properly. Although this is one the driver coupe, I am, nonetheless. just itching to replace it with a good and proper "201" or "301".

I have run a very fine sand paper through one and it worked fine.

You can also polish the points lightly using a regular point file.
I've also used crocus cloth (a very very fine abrasive cloth) for polishing points.
Either way, finish up with a clean lint free cloth and /or a little shot of compressed air on the open points.

BTW
The points are probably plated, so don't do any more than you have to to clean them up.
If you go through the plating, the points won't work for very long after that.

The shop manual says use a metal file ONLY.

Just scrape them, and gently. A tiny file should do nicely.

The reason to use a metal file ONLY is so small insulating particles are not left between the contacts.

Called a burnishing tool.
As stated, use a light touch.
Old timer trick is to use the abrasive strip on a paper matchbook.
WL

Only use a very fine points file or a burnishing tool or a "spoon" which was a special tool made for this. I don't know where to buy one. I would first just try dragging a piece of printer paper soaked in brake cleaner inbetween the points and see if the problem is solved.

If you do need to file it, know you do NOT need to get rid of all the pits, or make a nice surface or anything like that. All you are doing is scraping the crud off of the high spots. In many cases there is platinum or some other precious metal on the surface of the points. Remove as little as possible.

Less is more.

Also double check the insulation on the generator field coil windings. I have recently had a similar situation and found field coil insulation was no good under load.
Tony

Thanks for all the information.

I'll see what I can do.

Best,

Charlie

Gene or anyone else!

I have a 1118301 voltage regulator, still new out of the original box.
On the mounting ear are four stampings.

6VN (obvious)
9D
1118
301C

Would someone care to shed some light on the meaning of the last three stampings?
Thanks,
Randy

1118301 number

Gene,
Thanks for the reply.
What does “9D” mean. Is it a date stamp?
What does 1118 mean?
What does the “C” after 301 represent?
Randy