VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1937-1945 New to me 38 update

A side note if you're planning to swap the engine. Check the VIN on your title. Most states used the engine number as the VIN on the title through 55. If your title has the engine number as the VIN and you swap the engine you'll have difficulty ever selling or re-assigning the title in the future unless you re-title the after the swap. If, on the other hand, a different number such as the unit serial number on the data plate was used you should be good to go.

I would straighten the pushrods and make sure the valves are all
moving nicely.

What is the best technique to straighten rods?
Thanks again
Michael

Lay them on a perfectly flat surface and roll roll. is a test. bend sligtly as necessary to straighten.

I can do it ????

Sure. All you need is a hard surface and a small hammer. If you determine the pushrod is bent, roll it on the hard surface until the center of the bend is up. Tap the center of the bend with the hammer until it's flat. Repeat until straight. The "hard surface" will need to allow the shaft of the pushrod to lay flat without the ends of the pushrod touching. For the hard surface you can use a steel table, anvil, body & fender dolly, piece of train track rail or about anything that's flat and hard.

Sounds good, there are train tracks about a mile from my home. I don’t think the train is running on them any longer? LOL. Thanks Tiny and maybe someday I can share knowledge with folks once I know something

you do not even need a hammer, can be bent by hand.

Already received my motor mounts and thermostat reduction nut, but i have work to do on my regular car so the 38 has to take the backseat for a couple of weeks. I have to read how to adjust valves too, I might measure gap and set each one to the same until all pushrods have been checked and straightened then i will adjust properly

Cleaning valve and pushrod covers for painting, do I keep inside bare metal as i suspect? I'm trying to straighten the pan to reduce leaking but not sure what its suppose to look like when like new shape. The valve cover is bowed in at the ends, not sure if that is correct either. Attached are some pics but might not describe the questions i have.

All of the edges of the valve cover that rest on the head need to be flat and at right angles to the vertical part of the cover.

Your cover shows the typical signs of someone trying to stop leaks by constantly over-tightening the nuts on the 2 studs.

Notice the the long edge with the short flange is actually bent up some. Obviously the ends are pretty messed up, especially the corners. I cannot determine the condition of the long edge with the large flange. Spend the time to make everything flat.

When you set the cover on the machined surface of the head without a gasket it should touch all the way around. You can check this by putting a very thin coat of grease on the head. That grease should transfer to the perimeter of the mating surface on the cover.

Going by previous posts the engine was painted after assembley so the inside would not have been painted and rusty is correct about the edges of the rocker cover. The edges of the side cover should also be flat though I have had success with having the stud holes slightly raised outwards in comparison the the spaces as this applies extra pressure on the gasket when all is tightened down.
Tony

When you're tapping things back flat be gentle. It doesn't take a lot of force to straighten the edges. Hammering too hard against a hard surface can stretch the metal creating much larger problems with fit. Just take your time, lay the item on a hard surface & use the tool of your choice (I use a cross peen hammer and/or drift punch) to lightly tap the edge to be flattened. If it doesn't move tap a bit harder. When it's flat move on to the next section. Cross peen hammer.

Thank you gents, I have been watching videos on sheet metal and body repair. I purchased a set of body work hammers with dollys for my trim but have already started to us them on the valve cover and what surprised men most was tapping the raised edges of the dented side to draw the dent out. Metal
Work is an art that I want to learn. I want to restore the arrow on my running boards unlike the Master Deluxe that has a chrome strip, mine was sideswiped among the way. Much to do, keep you all posted as everything is new to me

I used a combination of methods to get my valve cover edges straight. Like Tiny said, I was concerned with stretching the metal due to hammering too hard. There were a few places I used a hammer.

The primary tool I used was a pair of wide jaw vice grip pliers. The jaws are about 2 inches wide. I would clamp it on the edge and bend just slightly, then move it about half the width of the jaws and bend the next section. It took a while because I did not try to bend it completely straight in one motion. I don’t remember exactly but I bet I made at least 3 or 4 passes around the cover before I was happy things were straight.

*What primer is recommended for engine block should i pant it?
Some work done,
Removed oil filter
removed horn for access
cleaned up around motor mount
*Do I have to remove the radiator to have better access to motor mounts in front? I think I will remove the radiator and accessories for cleaning and painting as well as change belt clean and paint radiator and fan plus change hoses.

Get your paint from the Filling Station either in a spray can or quart can. Do not use primer, no need.

i already have a couple of cans from the Filling Station, no primer? OK,
Thanks
Michael

It looks like I will have to remove grille to remove radiator, I want to anyways

Maybe a ”˜38 is different than a ”˜37. Check your shop manual.

It looks like the radiator needs to come to the rear. The mounting flange on the radiator is behind the radiator mount. So even if the grill is out you can’t move the radiator to the front.

Start by removing the hood and the v-shaped support rods. You need to remove the water pump and the water outlet with thermostat housing from the head as well as the valve cover. Loosen the 6 mounting bolts and drop the radiator down , tilt it to the rear, and bring it up and put at an angle.

I cover the back side of the radiator with a piece of cardboard so I will not damage any of the fins when I slide it up and out.

You actually have to have the radiator out to remove the grill unless you are going to remove the whole front clip assembly with the front fenders.

A light coat of automotive primer will enhance the life of the engine paint. It also helps to smooth the surface.

I was kind of wondering what the paint will stick to, figured it was formulation implementing primer qualities with adding a step therefore keeping
production costs down in 1938 of course
Keep you all posted

I agree with the recommendation to use a high temperature primer. It will help with adhesion, appearance, and durability of the engine paint.

The real key is getting the engine clean enough that you have a reasonable chance of any paint adhering to it.

I have never seen an in-vehicle engine paint job that held up very long. Unless of course the car was never driven.

I’ve seen some nice jobs but agree that it won’t be as good but better than what it is and my engine is running ok for now. I will spend most of my time cleaning the engine and everything around it. This is a good opportunity to detail berthing I can get to revealing leaks and damage as I go along

Sounds good