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I was tinkering around with my '40 Chevy truck today trying to get it running. I put my rebuilt starter and a new battery in it and it cranks good, but I have no keys! I looked in my shop manual and couldn't figure out the diagram. My dad is on vacation and I would like to get the truck running before he gets home. Is there any way I can bypass something or hot wire it? The armored cable that goes from the ignition to the coil is split open so I can get to the wire. Any suggestions?

If I remember right you can run a small jumper wire from battery positive to the negative side of the coil and it should start! Don`t tell your Dad I told you!!!

Thanks, its raining here now and as soon as it quits I'll go try it. The negative side of the coil is the wire running out the bottom of it right? Thanks, Bob

Bob! No, there are three wires that are on your coil. Neg/pos/ the larger wire is the high voltage wire that is attached to the center of your distributor cap. The wire I`m talking about is the smaller wire that is atttached to the negative side of the coil. Look real close, your coil will be marked with a plus and a minus sign. The minus is the negative.

Would that be the firewall side? Thanks, Bob

Bob, You need to hook the wire that runs though the shielded cable to the battery positive to by pass the ignition switch. The other small wire should run to the side terminal on your distributor which connects to the points. If you hook the battery positive to that one it will create a short every time the points close and may burn up your ignition points.
Ed

2 wires go to the distributor you dont want either of them disconnect the others and connect a wire to that terminal
Tony

Sorta like Nicholas Cage in "Gone in 60 Seconds."

if this is your dads car,use big caution man,chef-

Its more of a father son thing (father being the one paying for everything this time!)

Oh Bob, "been there, done that."

But I will admit, those were great days. We still do it once in a while with some of the oldest son's "old wrecks." (Like a 69 GMC 3/4 ton p/u with a 396 and a 73 Caprice 4 dr. hdtp with SB 400 that his grandpa bought new.)

Some of the best days of my life have been doing such things with my two boys.

Bill.

Bob,
So did you get the '40 chevy running?

Nope, we have been too busy lately. I am gonna give it another try this week.

I ran my '48 w/ a jumper for quite a while before getting my electrical in order. Be very careful when shutting the engine down. Sparks at the battery can be VERY BAD. Ideally if you put a small switch in the jumper it would be safest, or break the contact somewhere other than at the battery.

Well I got to thinking a little and I pulled the spark plugs out and what do ya know? Half of the valves were stuck open. So I pulled the valve cover off, got out the vise grips and penetrating oil, and, with a little convincing, got all but 1 of them free. About a week later the last one came free and when I went to turn the motor over, the battery was dead and it won't take a charge! I can't get a new one either because I have no money (my cab and front end just got back from the blaster). Oh well, maybe later!

Bowtie Cab, That is why the book says to remove the NEGATIVE cable first, there is always less current at the NEGATIVE Terminal, also connect it last.

MM

How much less current at the negative terminal? A milli-cca <lol>

Well suppose the starter is hung on and draws 15 amps, the 15 amps is going thru the starter to ground, so very little current is making it to the negative terminal. likeways if nothing is drawing current then no current is going to flow to ground thru the negative terminal which is what you desire. plus if your wrench happens to touch some metal on the car while it is on the negative terminal no current will flow, so whatever is causing the current to flow (a shorted circuit wire etc. the negative terminal will have the same potential as the spot that is shorted, so no current will flow at the negative termial of the battery) Will have the same potential as the negative cable and no current will be flowing at the negative terminal. ANY and all current will be flowing from the positive terminal of a negative grounded D.C. circuit. Say you have wired up an accessory stereo etc, and the main lead happens to become shorted to the engine, cowl dash etc. don't grab the red hot wire and try to stop the smoke! unhook the negative treminal. just some food for thought.

There is no difference in current or voltage at the battery (what goes out must go back). By disconnecting the earth first you remove the risk of shorting the out to ground and causing a battery explosion or fire.
Tony

Anyone know what MM was talking about?

Any time you run DC voltage to a motor, light bulb etc. The CURRENT used depends upon the internal resistance of the device. That current is converted into motion, heat or light. The voltage exiting the device is near the same voltage going into the device (resistor) starter motor, heat coil, light bulb, radio. BUT the current is not the same as went into the device, Basic electricity!
Some folks that don't know the difference between current, voltage, and resistance or volts amps, watts,and ohms and may think that current and voltage are just juice. What can say?

Thanks for the info guys!

You are welcome, the main thing to remember is before working on the electrical system please disconnect the negative lead from the battery.

Not only that.....it cuts down on the amount of beer that you will consume as well!

Haha well, I don't drink beer so I don't have to worry about that part.