I have one in my 31’ and my pedal is way up. I don’t like it at all. I’ve tried adjusting it but the best I can get is about a 1/2” free play but it doesn’t grab until almost all the way out. If I adjust it down, it won’t disengage the clutch. It seems it needs a lot of travel to work properly. Not sure if the geometry of the pedal throw is different because it’s all one piece along it’s entire length unlike the stock configurations multiple piece assembly which has some lateral movement through the pedal travel. I put a NOS carbon in my 32’ Olds and the clutch pedal is perfect. If I pull my 31’ trans for any reason I’m going back to the stock throw out.
Forgot to add. I made up another clutch pedal arm plate and even cut off the section with the hole, repositioned it for more throw, and welded it back on to the plate. While the mod gave me enough throw to finally disengage the clutch enough, the engagement height of the pedal is too high.
I have one in my 31’ and my pedal is way up. I don’t like it at all. I’ve tried adjusting it but the best I can get is about a 1/2” free play but it doesn’t grab until almost all the way out. If I adjust it down, it won’t disengage the clutch. It seems it needs a lot of travel to work properly. Not sure if the geometry of the pedal throw is different because it’s all one piece along it’s entire length unlike the stock configurations multiple piece assembly which has some lateral movement through the pedal travel. I put a NOS carbon in my 32’ Olds and the clutch pedal is perfect. If I pull my 31’ trans for any reason I’m going back to the stock throw out.
Forgot to add. I made up another clutch pedal arm plate and even cut off the section with the hole, repositioned it for more throw, and welded it back on to the plate. While the mod gave me enough throw to finally disengage the clutch enough, the engagement height of the pedal is too high.
good ot know, was thinking of updating to the bearing style while mine is out... guess i will reinstall the NOS carbon with 25 miles on it :)
AACA - VCCA - Stovebolt - ChevyTalk Love the Antique Chevrolet's from 1928-1932 The Beauty, Simplicity, History, and the Stories they Tell
When I put mine together about 12 years ago there was not a good diagram or description of how the arm was supposed to push the throw out bearing. I used a very large washer. welded a 9/16 rod across and then cut out the center where the transmission spline would go. This insured that the two mounting pins would be straight across from one another. Drilled the ends of the 9/16 rod for the spring clips. I like how it works and have lots of adjustment. We live in an area with lots of traffic lights and lots of stop and go driving. I was concerned with the heat build up of the carbon insert. Maybe it would have been fine. Art
Sounds like I am not the only one having trouble with it...
You’re not alone for sure. If you have a good carbon, all the other components, and if there in good shape, I’d use them. I actually hate the pedal in my Chevy and absolutely love the pedal in my Olds. I realize that it’s two different cars but my Olds is completely OEM and my Chevy has the BB throw out. The other 28-34 Chevys I’ve done had the carbon bearing and all those pedals felt and engaged better than mine. I usually don’t knock a product much but I don’t even consider using one in any car I restore now.
I have the new carbon in my 29. I am wondering if I should put an access hole in the transmission support so that I can lubricate the carbon (it has the oil fill cup).
Hello All This is to answer Bare_Feet's question about oiling his new carbon throw out bearing that he put in his 1929. These 2 website links are from the 1931 Chevy Service News found on the website Old Online Chevy Manuals http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/
I have already talked to Steve Smith about his problems with what I call the clutch conversion ball and sleeve throw out bearing assembly which I sold him. The instructions that I got with the part from my supplier that I had at the time were good for installation for this assembly in 1925-28 4 cylinder cars (from a September 2006 G&D article) and said that it would also work in the 1929-31 cars but was kind of sketchy information with a black blurry picture of a modified one piece carbon throw out bearing that came out in 1931 to replace the separate cast iron clamp retainer and the carbon donut. This was by cutting, grinding or filing off the carbon bearing down to the cast iron housing of the one piece bearing. There was no mention of using the ball and sleeve assembly with the original cast iron retainer. I assumed (which made an [bleeped] out of me) that this ball and sleeve assembly would work with the original cast iron retainer for 1929-30 but from doing some measuring and matching, I found out that the carbon donut used in 1925-28 4 cylinder Chevys is much thinner than the one used in 1929-30 Chevys by 5/16 of an inch. To use the original cast iron clamp style retainer for 1929-30, a 5/16 flat washer with an OD of 2.652 inches and an ID of 1.500 inches needs to be made an installed and clamped into the retainer as a new contact surface for the ball bearing on the sleeve. The newer one piece cast iron carbon bearing that came out in 1931 can be cut flush down to the housing with a hacksaw and then finished off with a flat file. I will add a few pictures of these items. The conversion throw out ball and sleeve assembly show in the picture is one I had made with a new USA made L&S throw out bearing.
I did exactly as Marxparts explains for the 31’ on my car yet it’s still not right. If I want a lower pedal engagement with more free play, sometimes, especially after the car is good and warm and I’ve made quite a few shift sequences, it won’t want to come out of gear with the pedal fully depressed. If I adjust it with a high engagement and little free play, I don’t have an issue. Perhaps it’s got something to do with the pressure plate but I’ve checked it all all appears good.
I am wondering if it might be due to wear on the pressure plate fingers. When I replaced my clutch disc with a new one i could not get it to release and ended up using the old worn disc. Later when I had it apart again I tried another new disc and had the same issue. This time I shimmed the pressure plate with washers and it worked fine. Some where in the process if I remember correctly I noticed the fingers are rounded on the wearing surface and thought perhaps they were worn. Not sure but if they have a cam type lift and the ends are worn it will limit the travel just as a worn cam will act on a lifter. I was going to check on a used pressure plate but then remembered they are now somewhere in Texas.
