VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1929-1932 "Please don't go...."

It will be a few months until I get to really dig into my '32 for its' restoration (Lord, help me) and I hope and pray you guys are still doing the Chatter thing then. I know I will need all of the help you are willing to give me..........I think I will have to move the computer into the shop. I will also know how (I hope) to post some pics as I struggle along, you will be able to time my work with calendars not watches.

I'm still looking at cameras for computer pics, is anyone happy or unhappy with the one they have? Please let me know your advice.

My car is basically all there, I redid the top already. WHERE would you advice me to start on the restoration? I don't want to make the mistake of taking it all apart and making the job more difficult. I would like to be able to drive it some while doing the restoration. I don't think it needs to come off of the frame......what would I look for to make sure it doesn't need to come off the frame?

Gator, don't contemplate that restoration for too long a time - it becomes too intimidating!! Break it down into smaller segments (i.e. frame & suspension, drive train, etc.) and it's a lot less overwhelming. It also gives you a sense of accomplishment when you get one segment completed and that spurs you on to the next area.

As far as the camera goes, I've been using a Kodak DX3600 (2.2 megapixels), with the 'Docking Station" and I've been very pleased with it. Downloading pics is a snap (no pun intended) with the docking station and you can store the camera in it and it keeps the batteries charged up. If you want to be printing and enlarging to 8x10's, you should probably go to a 3.0+ megapixel camera, which Kodak also has. You can check the Kodak cameras out at:
http://www.kodak.com/global/en/digital/easyShare/camerasMain.jhtml

-Bob

Gator - I'll let the wise warriors of restoration lead you down the correct paths, but if it's helpful, I took the same route as you're suggesting. I followed the basic advice I read in restoration magazines that said, in essence, get the mechanical stuff done first , and then work on the body.

I also heeded the advice of others that said 'don't tear everything out at once and create a basket case car. Take one thing off - fix it or replace it - and move on to another thing.' Yikes, you can get yourself in a heap of trouble trying to figure out how things went if you just tear everything down at once.

So, heeding their wisdom, I rebuilt the motor, then the brakes, then the wiring, and then the lighting, horn, and wiper, and got the old girl running, inspected, and registered. I can drive around anywhere, although looks-wise it ain't nothing special. Now, during the cold NY winters, I do bits and pieces of body work. For example, I pulled the rear fender off for repair and repaint, and I pulled off and repainted the trunk. Eventually, when everything is fixed and working (about 15~20 years...) I'll get a complete frame-off re-restoration.

That help?

For what ever its worth, time should not be a factor. Just try to enjoy the journey. It took me 21 years on my 32 Roadster. I made it to Hershey last October for my first show. Skip can atest to the duration of that project. What I think is a scream is the fact that in the August issue of the G & D, in the artical on my chassis, I said I hoped to have finished by the end of the year. Six years later it finally happened. I don't hunt, fish, golf, etc. so this is my only escape. I'm just not very fast.

Gasp... in 21 years, I'll be... OLD!

I like to think that I"m a patient person, but I really hope it doesn't take me that long. Enjoy the journey is good advise though, and so far I have. My '31 is still together because the previous owners had the good sense not to take it apart. My '37 is a real basket case, but I hope to finish it first, and in 3 years... but I'm not making much progress yet, career and house repairs keep getting in the way.

Gator, I bought a Sony CD Mavica 3.3 pixel camera (for big bucks, like a good portion of a wood kit for the '31). It works well and I use a lot of the features, but it's really much more than is needed. I thought the CD feature would be cool. It uses Sony 8 cm cd's (mini discs), and they hold a lot of pictures. So far, I haven't been able to get it to use anything but Sony CD's which are not that easy to find. I've found that for taking pictures of truck features as I disassemble it it is best to use the 640x480 mode. It's good enough resolution to show the features, takes up less space, and loads quicker on the computer. Probably the moral of this story is don't spend too much on technology.

Gator, I have a Sony Mavica fd83 that uses a 3.5" floppy disk that will plug right into the "A" drive and load onto the computer, I have been well pleased with it. I haven't used the newer model with the memory stick but they have more capacity than a 3.5 floppy, however as inexpensive as the 3.5 disk is I just carry several and the camera also will delete files, and format a disk. The zoom and audio record and 15 second video work fine, and can be emailed as an attachment without any trouble.
When I bought mine it was only about $700 and the price has steadly dropped since then.

That is some great information, thanks, guys. I know someone who is buying a Kodak LS443, I will try his and see if it meets my needs. Like you said the camera can do more than I will ever use anyway. Good, clear close-ups of parts is my main need.

The big problem I have with the order of restoring is that I want to have the motor rebuilt (has a deep thudding sound in the bottom of the motor) by someone who knows '32 Chevy motors. While I'm waiting for the right person, I figured I could work on other items on the car. I guess I could put new pieces and parts on the motor and then take them off to pull the motor for the rebuild. :eek:

Sorry that I sound so lost and needy, but I don't want to screw up the car. Also don't want to waste time redoing something or having to backtrack. :(

I encourage you all to consider taking a few pictures at a higher resolution. That way when you submit the article to the G&D on a part of your restoration that the picture is clear in the publication.

Though you don't believe it there are many hungry VCCA members ready to eat up what you find during the restoration. Start with something simple and work up. You don't need to be a polished writer as there are others that can review and suggest corrections. We despirately need more technical articles and you can help.

"......taking a few pictures at a higher resolution. That way when you submit the article to the G&D......."

Chip, I think you are talking about the "MP" rating on the camera.

If I'm right about that, what number do you consider a "higher resolution" number that I would need?

As the MP goes up so does the price, so I'm looking for a camera that will do the job you are talking about and keeping the price as low as possible. Thanks :eek: :eek:

The Sony Mavica has a mode that lets you record two formats on each pic., one is a high resolution pic and the other is a standard JPEG compression for email which can be viewed with windows exployer.

I think you're actually thinking along the right track about the motor, Gator. When you find the person who knows old motors, you can start taking off one motor piece at a time and either working on it yourself, buying a replacement, or giving it to him to work on (for example, grinding the heads and valves, installing new rings, etc.)

Sounds like the real issue will be determining what's the thud all about. If it's main bearings, it means it'll have to go the babbit shop. That means you'll have to strip it down to the block anyway.

The digital camera sounds like a solid idea to keep track of what goes where before you take it apart. I used the old fashioned method of sketching out what I was looking at on a notepad before I took it apart. Boy, that was a lifesaver when 6 months later I'd look at something and go "How the heck was this put together...?" :eek:

Were you planning on doing any of the motor work yourself?

I have used a 2 meg. Kodak and had the photos published without a problem using the medium mode ~ 1 meg. If you are planning a full page photo then 2 meg would be required.

I remember the G&D editor had a blerb in one of the last several issues on electronic photos. I have not looked it up yet.

Thanks for that info Chip, a 2MP is more in line with my budget. :eek:

I remember taking a '29 apart years ago and I taped all of the little pieces (nuts/bolts/washers,etc) to the main piece in little bags, didn't take pics or draw any before pictures either and its' funny (funny serious not funny Ha,ha) how you forget so many things after only a few years (read 10+) of procrastination + bags come off over time. I made the classic mistake of taking it completely apart, DON'T DO THAT!! Take everybodies' word on that. :( :(

This time I am going to overdo the pics, with a digital camera the cost is really nothing. :)

I can always throw unneeded pics away, can't go back and take a needed pic.

After you complete the current task the next step is the basket case. Now a true basket case everything apart, with the nuts, screws and bolts in baby food jars, once labeled with anothers terms. Some pieces in the back yard, some in the attic, some in the chicken coop and some under the bed. It can be done and gives a real sense of accomplishment when completed. The next step after that is Technical Advisor as you now have shelves of literature, hands on experience and time on your hands. Well maybe not!!!

I will be leaving my kids some car/truck projects to finish. This way everytime they bust a knuckle on a rusted nut, they will think of me. Plus maybe when they drive the cars...... :cool2:

Dream on , Gator!

Gator, I use an older Hewlett Packard but it is only a 1 megapixle 1152x872 resolution it does a good job so far I have taken pictures of several hundred cars and trucks as well as pics of my work in progress and they have all turned out great. Get a good picture software program and it will save some of the questonable shots and allow you to edit some of your shots. I have one of those basket cases, a 29 Coach taken apart in 69 for restoration and then the owner died, it sat apart in an old barn (termits really enjoied the wood) I bought it in 2000 and it took me three days to haul all the parts home. Jars full of nuts and bolts boxes of parts that took me months to identify. No pictures, drawings, or diagrams anywhere, it was a nightmare and somedays it still makes me nuts just trying to find out where a part goes or how a cable or wire was routed. So take as many pictures and you can, and work as slowly as you need to do the job once and do it right.

What software would you recommend?

Hey Gator!

I use a Olymbus #3020. It can be set to 1200 down to 400 mega pixels. It was a great deal at $349.00 a few weeks ago. It's last's year's model so the price dropped about $200! One piece of advice is to get a camera like someone else has so you can ask questions. My brother has the 3020 and we always chat about do's and dont's.
Same thing with your '32. You already know plenty of '32 guys (like myself), so don't be affraid to ask. Remember the only dumb question is the one you don't ask.
If I had to start over (remember my car is not finished) I'd start with the motor. Once you have the body done it's tough to pull the engine.
You are right in thinking of not removing the body. Unless you have a huge garage, you can loosen the body to get to the underside, by lifting it up on planks and leaving it on the frame. I did remove the body because the interior was gone, and I had a lot of rotted wood.
Unless you have a heated garage, forget about painting in the winter. I still have to get to my rumble lid, rear fenders and 2 doors. My garage is warm from the house above it, but way too cold to paint laquer.
I'm in my 50's and still have to go to work. So I wish that I had more time to work on the car, but for now I'm stuck with indoor house painting and repairs until the winter breaks.
I guess you can see the problems of total restoration. Time, time, time. There is never enough. No mater what "little" part you have to work on, you will run out of time for the day. Then try to get back to it the next day. It's almost impossible for me!
Good advice on keeping all those small together. Put them in jars, or bags, and keep them covered. Apply a light wax on the chrome, and keep those in old newspapers. The paper will absorb moisture.
Don't buy new rubber parts and let them sit for a long time. My running board mats shrunk!, and the smaller pieces dride out.
I can go on, but that's it for now. Good luck!

Hey, RGwiz, you're still using lacquer? Good for you! I'm trying to keep with it, but nobody around here has any. I brought a rear fender in for repair at the dependable nearby body shop, and the best they can do for me is acrylic.

I really enjoy using lacquer because it's so easy to work with, and sets up nicely. And...it's easier to cover over any original parts that are not quite sanded clear. I hate the ominous crinkles that enamel creates over spots of old lacquer. :(

Add me to the list as well. I love lacquer and all I ever use is Nitrocellulose Lacquer and Acrylic Lacquer. Won't use anything else. I get the Acrylic Lacquer from my local PPG dealer. He stocks lots of it.

My brother painted his '29 Fo*d one piece at a time. Can I do that with the Chevy? :confused: I was thinking of painting one fender at a time. I will "box" the paint and then store the paint until I need it again. Thought I would sand/paint the wheels first. :) What would you reconmend to use on the wheels? :confused: How long can I store lacquer paint? :confused: I have been told lacquer is the most forgiving of the paint systems also.

Sorry to hear about your running board mat, I bought one about 3 years ago and have kept it in the house, now I'm afraid mine has done what yours did. :( :( Won't even look until I need it. :rolleyes:

Check these forums for great advice on cameras. http://www.dpreview.com/
I have a 2.7 mp Oly and it is great.

Running board mats do shrink over a period of time, but it's no big deal. When you are ready to install the them, lay the mats out in the sun and get them warm. They can be stretched back to their original size when you install them. My running board mats were only a few weeks old when I installed them, and they were shrunk as well. Getting the mats warm did the job and they installed beautifully!

Now that is some good news, thanks JYD.

The camera site is great it has a ton of information, thanks, Paul.