VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1937-1945 316 Timing From Scratch

BJ pm me your phone number, I have to make I trip to Nebraska in the morning not sure what time I will be back I can call when I know.

BJ,
"
Look on the top side of the rocker arm. It should have a number on it. "1" for left exhaust and "2" for right exhaust or "5" for left intake and "6" for right Intake. Information is for 41 thru 50. (using 1929 -50 (using a 29-50 parts book)

If you don't get one elsewhere in a timely fashion, let me know the number and I'll send you one. No charge for part or shipping.

Best,

Charlie

BTW: Check the shaft for scoring, etc.

Most likely happened when starting with 12 year old gas causing valves to stick bending push rods and breaking rocker arm , I just started 49 216 engine I bought cheap had been setting for a very long period , Owner didn't take My advise on start up to clean tank or use small pony tank to start and run it on ,3 rockers 1 lifter and 4 push rods bent , replaced all and carb and fuel pump as they had rotten gas in them also.
Learned the hard way on a 65 Mustang convert, put a 302 Engine in it , Car had been setting for a long while and on start up on old fuel let run for several minutes , shut off and on next start up bent valves push rods ect.

Update on this. I replaced the rocker arm and re-timed the ignition. I have the BB on the flywheel dead-center under the pointer. Both rocker arms on the #1 cylinder have the same amount of play so both valves should be closed. Also sprayed PB Blaster down the valve stems to hopefully get rid of the stickiness that probably caused the break (thanks for that suggestion, Dens).

I have the the points just barely opening. The rotor is just past one of the spark plug contacts - what I was thinking was the #4 cylinder but should be #1, right?

Does all this sound right or am I missing something? I've tried starting it but all I get is spitting/coughing from the carb.

I get this feeling that with the contact barely open, the rotor should be ON or just about to touch one of the spark plug contacts, but that's not what's happening - if just coming OFF one of the contacts.

Sounds to be very close, the rotor should be at #1 position. I often use a light to determine points open, with key turned on connect a test probe light to moving point while the points are closed the light will be out until the points open. This is when the spark occurs.
Tony

I used a multi-meter, checking voltage running back up to the coil (about .45 volt with contact closed, 6.25 volts with contacts open). Plus, it's dark enough under the hood I can see a tiny spark the moment the contacts open.

So, I assume that the distributor cap post the rotor just came off of must be the #1 cylinder, correct? As both valves are in the closed position (a little play in both #1 rocker arms) and it's just now generating a spark through the plug wire.

Just want to make sure I don't get the plug wires in the wrong posts on the cap and end up having everything off by one position. Once I know the timing is correct, I can address the carb coughing if it's still happening when I try starting her again (have a new carb and may have to make some adjustments).

If you think the rotor is too far from the contact post in the distributor cap when the points open you might need to move the distributor drive gear one tooth one way or the other. You will have to move the oil pump drive notch slightly to make everything seat correctly.

One simple way to set the timing is to pull the number one spark plug, connect it to the number one wire, and lay the plug on a metal surface with a good ground. You need to install the distributor cap for this method and have the correct gap on the points.

Set the timing mark on the flywheel at the ball (which it sounds you have done correctly).

Loosen the clamp screw that holds the distributor in the timing plate. With the ignition on rotate the distributor counter-clockwise until the plug sparks. That happens when the points open. If the plug does not spark you might have started the rotation when the points were already open. Remove the distributor cap and turn the distributor clockwise until you see the points close. Then re-install the cap and go clockwise again.

Stop rotating the distributor when the plug sparks and tighten the clamp screw.

Thanks, Rusty. That's what I needed - some way to confirm which was the #1 position on the rotor cap, just for my own peace of mind.

Thanks to everyone else for your suggestions, too!

Got her timed and running so I could adjust the idle mix - no more popping through the carb now and the engine seems to be running fine.

Now, on to getting the shocks rebuilt, the exhaust replaced, etc., etc.