Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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Again I was just wondering what the difference is between the Stovey and an inline six. Is the I-6 just a later updated version?

I did find an interesting page The Stovebolt Zone! , but I have not had a chance to look through it all so if the answer is in there forgive me for not being diligent (I had a reaaaally bad night last night and was sick A lot of fun when family visits :( ).

The page looks interesting, even has a wiring diagram of the Stovebolt. I thank you for all your input, but now I must eat toast and lie down wink

~James

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The stove bolt nick name was used more or less for the 1929-62 engines.Chevrolet never refered to it as such.The I6 is what Chevrolet called the new ,modern 6 that they used in 1963 and up cars and trucks.('62 ChevyII also).The I6 engine has thin wall casting,short piston stroke, large bore and seven main bearings.The older engines had three main bearings til 36-four from'37 and up.The I6 shared some parts with the V8s and design features.


Gene Schneider
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Chevrolet used the I6 designation.The 1963 6 cylinders had a number 6 with an I in back of it on the front fender to identify the cars so equipped.That seemed to be their theem for the new engine when it was introduced.


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Ah ok. That clears up things a little for me. My next question would have to be about L-Heads and I-Heads. I was reading on a site about the stovebolt six and it said that Chevrolet went for an I-Head instead of the more obvious L-Head (Or something like that, forgive me if I am wrong about that). I'd really appriciate if you could tell me what these head thingys do and how the "I" and the "L" differ. I dug thropugh the local bookstore today but I couldn't find any books about engine basics etc (Well, I could, but I don't think I am ready for "Perparing a small block for the streets" or whatever they were saying :rolleyes: ).

Are the head something to do with allowing fuel/air in to the cylinders and exhuast fumes out? And is that why the exhuast pipes coming off are called "headers" in this here magazine :confused: .

Thanks again for helping me out :)

~James

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The L and the I and in the case of willys in the early 50's refer to the positioning of the valves. L heads had the valves in the block (plymouth/chrysler) I heads were similar to the chev and the F head was willys 4 banger with one valve in the head and the other in the block. I have found that perusing used books stores is an interesting past time and also has provided several books relating to early wiring, simple discussions on engines and what makes them run, I also found a Chilton Manual for vehicles to 1955 which included all the old chevs etc. $17.00 and is was almost pristine. talk talk talk

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As glyn mentioned, the L-head and I-head designation refers to the location of the intake and exhaust valves in the engine. L-head is the same as a "flathead" (like a Model A Ford) with the valves positioned in the block next to the cylinders. With this arrangement, the cylinder and firing chamber form a kind of upside down "L" shape. I-Head is the same as "overhead" with the valves located in the head above the cylinders (like the Chevrolet). With the valves directly above the piston, the cylinder and firing chamber are straight up and down, forming a kind of "I" shape.
chevy


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Bahpi Offline OP
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Thank you very much for all the info. Those diagrams helped explain a lot!

If I were to get an old engine to tinker around with do I have to use special cleaning chemicals etc so I don't harm any of the parts? What would you guys recommend that I invest in before uptaking a job like that? I don't want the job to end up like this---> flush

Thanks again

~James

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Bhapi,I would like to suggest a very well written manual currently listed on ebay #2410560869 "Chevrolet Six Car and Truck manual 1931-1937 by Victor Page. Anyone who has read his book will agree that it is an excellent source of info on early Chevrolets. It is presented in straight forward clear language with many illustrations to cover repair and explains how things work.If the the other forum members don't out bid you you may get it for a resonable price (these are somewhat rare and worth $25-$50 by my guess)I really enjoy my copy.It has been fun reading your message string as new blood is always good to see in the old car hoby.


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