Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks


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If you turn on the head lights and the dash indicator lights light up you have the indicator light sockts pluged into the dash panel light holes.
The directional eletrical switch will cause lack of brake lights if the switch is not in the exactly centered position or defective.


Gene Schneider
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Was hoping the colored diagram might reveal something, but guess not. Good luck with the problem.


1946 Chevy 3100 1/2 Ton Pickup Purchased 11/18/17 Sold 9/20
1948 Chevy Fleetmaster Coupe, Purchased 6/20/2010
1965 Chevy ll 350 Purchased Feb 2021. 3-speed Saginaw Hurst Floor Shifter 3.08 Rear End

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Thanks Gene, that was the next thing I was going to do, tear into the wiring on the steering wheel, I didn't want to but I've tried everything else. I ordered a new brake switch thinking that might be a problem, but I haven't received it yet.

I have a different set of instruments in my dash, so don't have all of the old plug in dash lights. The turn signal indicators are two little led lights wired separately, there is one ground wire and one hot wire, the hot wire is connected to the signal wires. Ground wires to body.
Oh, and the colored wiring diagram is really nice. But, it doesn't have all of the wiring for my car, as I have electric windows and it doesn't show any of that.


John
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Are you sure the battery cables and or ground straps are all hooked up like they belong? The Motor/Trans, the frame, and the body all need to be grounded together. Make sure they are.

Still got trouble? Ok then try this:

Get down to the simplest version possible.

Are the factory wires still hooked up that go from the turn signal switch out to the four corners of the car to the bulbs? I am going to assume yes until you tell me different.

If the dash indicators are hooked up, you can leave them, but if they aren't don't bother for now. The dash indicators have to be hooked to the FRONT signals, not the rear

Disconnect the brake light switch.

Remove the flasher. Make a jumper to plug into the flasher socket. Jumper from the 12V to the wire going up to the signal switch. Verify with a test light or a meter that there is really 12 volts there.

Now you should have signals that don't blink (and no brake lights). Get this much working before going any further. Try both sides and see what works and what doesn't.

Don't leave the signals on for very long. IIRC the lenses are plastic. A brake/signal bulb can get hot enough to melt a plastic lens if left on long enough (and these aren't going to blink yet).

If the signals work now (but don't blink), we can continue. If they don't, get this much working before going any further.

If you have a corner that isn't working on thing you could try is temporarily adding a ground. Attach a wire directly to the socket (not the reflector) with a little hose clamp or something. Bolt the other end to the body. If this fixes it you know you need to fix the ground.

Another thing to try is an ordinary 12 volt signal light bulb, to eliminate any possible problem with the LED bulbs.

If the dash indicators work now too, great. If not, hook them up and get them working. They should hook to the front signals and be grounded. LED bulbs have a (+) and a (-) unlike ordinary bulbs. Make sure it is the ground side that is grounded.

Let us know how it goes. When you get this much going we can attack the rest.


Last edited by bloo; 02/14/19 01:33 AM.
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Thanks Bloo for the response, I like your step by step directions. , I will start following your procedures as soon as I receive my new turn signal switch.
For now, question on the dash signal lights: Do you tie them together on the front signal lights, that might be a problem, as I connected each one to front and rear lights. I'll check that out first thing this morning while I wait on my new switch.


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The front and rear have to be completely separate from each other because of the shared brake lights.

Connect the right dash indicator to the right front light, and the left dash indicator to the left front light.

If you connect the dash indicators to rear lights, then they come on with the brake lights. Thats why you connect them to the front. Good luck!

Last edited by bloo; 02/14/19 08:49 PM.
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Let's keep working on the basics. I like Bloo's approach. I especially like his ideas about using regular 12 volt bulbs to test your connections. I know everybody thinks LED's are the greatest thing since sliced bread. My experience is that they can create as many issues as people think they might solve.

I also encourage you to get a simple volt-ohm meter so you can test the connections in the brake light switch as well as the turn signal. If those contacts are not closing things will never work.


Rusty

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As for the brake light switch: I ordered a replacement thinking there might be a problem with it, well I received it today and opened the package and there was a note inside , saying "WARNING, This product is not approved for use with Silicone Brake fluid" Damn, guess what is in my system. Now i'm thinking, could this have been part of my problem.
I wish the seller would have told me that before I ordered the switch. Now I'm thinking should I flush my system and put regular brake fluid in it.? I can't win for loosing.

New subject; Has anyone removed the bearing in the top of column. I broke the horn wire off getting the signal wires out. Of, course there are no instructions in the manual. So I'm flying blind again. I ordered a new one, I doubt there are any instructions with it to remove the old one. Anyone done this before.? John


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A 1954 had a lever type swith unless you have factory power brakes. The switch willl be OK with silisone fluid for a few years. After awhile the silicone will leave a film and insulate the ball in the switch and iit will require more pressure to make the switch work. You will notice it if you are aware.

Test for silicone fluid. Place some on a painted surface. If it removes the paint it is NOT silicone. Also silicon has a purple tint.

Last edited by Chev Nut; 02/16/19 12:01 AM.

Gene Schneider
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Yes Gene, I have power brakes, and I have silicone fluid. I guess I will go ahead and use the new switch, if they last a few years that will work for me. After all I've had the silicone in my system for over 30 years. That should outlast me.
The reason I put silicone fluid in the system in the first place was to keep water from rusting the cylinders,


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I am a silicone brake fluid fan but would suggest changing the fluid at least every 10 years. Water can form in the system but not mix with the silicone and will cause rust.


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Quote
Of, course there are no instructions in the manual.

http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1949_53/09steering/9_04.HTM


Russell #38868
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Thank you, this will be a great help, of course I don't have the prescribed tools recommended, but I will endeavor to make something work. Getting it out will be harder than replaceing it. Thanks again for the response.


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Well, I managed to remove the upper bearing in the column. I didn't have the recommended tools, so I made do. First I pryed the brass at the top, this gave me a little room to wriggle, then I started taking out the pressed material around the edge, next, with my drill and a small bit, I drilled out the center, and all of the bearings fell out. this loosened the center enough to grab it with plyers, prying thru the access hole at the bottom of column and pulling from the top I managed to get all of the outside material., what was left was the bearing race which I was able to grab with plyers and pull it out. It wasn't easy, I spent a couple of hours on it, but succeeded.


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Update on my wiring problems: I first want to thank everyone who contributed their expertise to my problems, but the good news is, I have turn signals, after spending hours tracing out wires and colors, it boiled down to GROUNDS, I kept attaching the black ground wire from the dash indicaters , just like it showed in the wiring diagram, to the third probe on the flasher, turns out it needed to be ground to the body, and only two probes were used on the flasher. I got a flasher with two probes, and a seperate ground wire and it worked like a charm. Also installed a new turn signal switch, although I think the old one was OK, I also replaced the upper bearing with a new horn line, so now I'm all set. I might actually get to drive my car this summer. Thanks again


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Glad you finally got it working!

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Congratulations! And thank you for letting us know.


Rusty

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