VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - GENERAL Mechanical - Engine, Trans, etc Got Heat?

When I got my '32 the 'heat' knob was in the dash but there wasn't anything attached to it. :(

1. what exactly does this knob do? :confused:

2. Where does it attach? :confused:

3. How do I use it correctly? :confused:

4. What else do I need to know about this feature? :confused:

Thanks

The heat knob hooks to a shaft on the side of the exhaust manifold. When the heat knob is pulled out it activates a "flapper" inside of the exhaust manifold that directs hot air up to the carburetor for better atomization when the car is cold. This is explained in several 1932 literature pieces like the owner's manual and etc.

I've read the information in the books, I guess I really want to know is - How much do I need it? I have not ever used it and I don't know if the knob broke 'on' or in the 'off' position. Which side of the manifold should I look for......a lever or a hole? :confused:

You can't miss it. The shaft and lever are on the exhaust manifold below the carburetor facing the driver's side fender. When you open the hood, look down at the manifold and you will see it.

Gator,
You may miss it. Often the lever arm is missing and all you will see is the end of the shaft with flats on opposite sides. It will be in the center of the exhaust manifold under the carburetor. Most of the shafts are frozen in place by rust and will take a bit of work to get free. It is best to check the position of the valve. If it is in the open position you will have lots of problems with too much heat on the carb. If in the closed position then no major problem. It only will take a bit longer until you can push the choke all the way back in. If in an intermediate position then it may or may not cause problems. I have found the valves in nearly all possible positions. All were frozen in place.

I have replaced the shaft with a stainless rod which will eliminate the rusting problem. I have also had to fabricate new valve plates most of the time.

Thanks guys, that is exactly what I needed to know.

I assume the normal 'rust busters' will work ok. :)

Once I get it free what do I do? I'm not at home right now, but I don't ever recall seeing a lever sticking out of the side of the manifold. If it is broken off, I guess I will need to remove the manifold. I like the idea of ss, can I leave the flapper out until I find a replacement or just let it flop around free inside? :confused:

Gator,
You will need to be able to close the valve. Otherwise too much heat will be transferred to the intake manifold and carburetor.

I found the lever or what is left of the lever. There is a little (1/4" long) piece sticking out of the side of the manifold. The piece is flat on the top and the bottom, does that tell me if it is opened or closed? It is frozen, rusted, etc into the manifold, I sprayed some rust buster on it and I will let it soak for a while, and spray it again along and along. :( :(

A complete lever looks like what? Can I make one of of ss? :confused:

What now?? :confused:

It's like the choke lever on your carburetor.

cool, thanks.

My next step to fix this is to remove the manifold? Right? Any problems doing this that I should be on the lookout for? It doesn't look like it has been off in 70 years!!!

I never had any luck freeing the shaft without taking everything apart. It was difficult on most even when apart.

If the car has been a Southern car ever since the flapper froze up and You intend to keep it in Florida, I would work on it for a while and just be sure it is open toward the exhaust pipe and use it that way.

MrMack, how do I know if it is open or closed? :confused:

Do I have to take it apart to see? :confused:

The little piece left from the orginal shaft that sticks out rom the manifold is flat on the top and bottom, does that tell us if it is open or closed without taking it apart? :confused:

The only way you can be really sure is to either take the exhaust pipe off and check it that way or take the manifolds off.

Gator,
Even if the shaft is in the closed position it does not mean that you are safe. If the valve is rusted away you will still have a heat problem. The only sure way is to take it apart.
Chip

GATOR, I have the drawing for the heat riser control which has the exact size prints. Email me your address and I will send you the plans.

Hey Donald! Send me a set too please, or you won't get your carburetor back! :eek: :eek:

JYD, Please send me old Donald's carb for show and tell at the club meeting,next month. Hardly any one here has ever seen a gold plated Model "T" carb modified for a 32 Chevrolet!

:arrow:

Thanks for the help Don. Have a great turkey day too! :cool2:

If Old Donald doesn't send me the drawing then his carb. will be on the way to you Macky Wacky!

Hey Skipper, Your check and drawing is in the mail along with Gators. Also Im sending you a jar full od 1932 tire air that should clear your mind when you open It. Sweet Dreams. :arrow: :arrow: :arrow: :arrow:

Thanks Donald! And, I will try not to let that original '32 air escape from the jar when I open it. :cool2:

Sorry Macky Wacky! It looks like you missed out on Old Donald's carburetor. :( :(

Shucks, now I will have to come up with another show and tell item.......JYD, I bet you won't loan me one of your Elvira dolls, right?

I may have to take a bottle of original 1928 Janesville Wis. air, even tho it is about 1/2 coal soot, but I don't want to let that much out of one of my original 28 inner tubes.

Thanks for the mailing Don!!!!

While waiting for the mailperson, can you tell me where the 'pull wire' attaches between the dash and the lever? :eek:

P.S. what do you call that spiral wire with a wire inside? :confused: :confused:

Well, if it is a choke thingie I call it a choke control wire, and if a vent thingie a vent control wire. and if it is a heat thingie,....well I am sure you get the picture, Gator!

Don't you just love smartie pants people?
:arrow: