Restoration of the Special goes forward with Big Steps. I think in the next few weeks I will put the chassis on the frame. So yesterday I wanted to check the shock absorber because I saw a leak when I painted the frame. First put the frame on Stands to loose the Wheel. At this moment I feel a big clearance grabbing it by the bottom and lift it in and out. That was not the wheel bearing, as I saw, the king pin bearing is worn. Since everything had to be disassembled anyway because of the shock absorber, I disassembled everything. Looking into the manual, I noticed that a mechanic seems to have assembled the lower arm pivot incorrectly. Please, have a look at the pictures and compare it with the manual. Have it once so assembled as it belongs in my opinion. Is that correct? The pivot belongs probably also in direction rear mounted, here it points to the front? During the assembly the pivot socket is first mounted into the kingpin bracket (don't forget the seals ;-) ) and then the pivot pin is screwed in. Tighten firmly? Yes, I read the instructions in the manual with the screw clamp if the thread is not aligned. after dismanteling I saw the problem. The Under Plug cover and lock ring lost and the bushing, too. The Thrust Bearing also worn. Can i get them speratly or only in the King Pin Set? Which one ist the right one? For KA the right one sholud be 373476. 599207 should be the right Set from Cot40´s? Another Question, should there not be Oil in the Shock Absorber? Can i clean it and fill in Oil, or repair it?
Here is an old post to recommend Apple Hydraulics as a source for rebuilt shocks. 1947 Front Shocks I do not recommend Chevs of the 40's for rebuilt shocks, since I do not know the reliability of their rebuilder, nor the warranty on the parts. Way to much work to install a product that is not the best quality? Experienced machine shops maybe able to rebuild your shocks since buying from USA sources will be very expensive for shipping.
Dry shocks indicate a problem holding fluid. The shocks are one of the hardest areas to service on your car so I recommend replacing them unless you are positively sure they are in excellent working condition. I recommend replacing the the A-Frame inner shafts, upper and lower link pins, king pins, A-Frame bumpers, sway bar bushings, sway bar links, tie rods, and rebuilding the steering box and replacing the pitman arm bushings. Lastly, make sure your rims and tires are in balance. It is common to have bent rims and out of round tires. With the description of the condition of your pivot pin I would also look carefully at your wheel bearings, and whether your steering knuckle support is damaged from the missing bushing.
You really need to be persistent, patient, invest a lot of time and money to make this great hobby work for you. In the end it is all worth it in the memories and the knowledge that you have preserved something truly unique.
On the lower pivot pin - if I remember correctly the grease fitting points to the front on one side and to the rear on the other. I would replace the king pins and upper and lower pivot pins on both sides. 599207 is the correct king pin set. .
Thanks Chevgene, I have an older King Pin set, but without the bearings ... so I want to know if they are available separately. @Mike - the cover seal was the cause of the oil loss. How much Oil i have to fill in the Shock Absorber?
Found CHEVROLET PARTS KIT FACTS 1929 - 1947, in the Description the right one for my KA is the Set Number 603386 and the Number of the King Pin 599207?! Found some from Rare Parts TPTK270 or 30157. The Bearing is 373476. Other Manufacturers known? Just seen that the set fits Corvette 53-62, Bel Air etc , too?!
Thanks Mike, send my Shocks to Apple is no option at the Moment. So i will clean it and fill in Oil and than see what happend. Can I fill in 3/4 full of Oil and than close the Cover?
Putting the oil in before installing the cover should work just fine. It would be nice if others would comment on their experience with these shocks. My experience is with the leaks being around the seals (shock arms) not the cover or plug used for filling the shocks.
Is it correct, that I can move the arm easy by hand or should I only test it mounted in the car? Cleaned the body and the walves in a ultrasonic bath and filled in new Hydraulic oil. Can someone explain me the correct function if this? Think the oil would be pressed through the walves?
Andre I am not sure about the 1940 shocks but I think they are only single acting which means that the oil is only forced through the valves with 1 movement (up) giving the damping effect but in the other movement (down) the oil bypasses the valves with no damping effect. If they are double acting the oil will go through valves in both actions. Tony
Think they are double action, because there are two valves. See the Pictures. But I should feel a little bit damping when I move the arms, ore not? Seems that I have to buy New one from Apple, 1000 bucks with Core and Shipping to Germany
The only experience I have with these shocks is having removed them, sent them to Apple Hydraulics, and reinstalled them. Great service and turn around. I certainly recommend them.
If I would stay in the USA, this where my way too. But it's not possible to send mine to Apple, so I have to pay 200 Core and 200 shipping and 685 for the shocks. On Top 200 $ Custom
Andre I have seen these shocks leak badly around the arm seals but have not seen any that failed internally. Chevgene may have. Clean them out, put them in the upright position they would be when installed in the car. fill them with hydraulic jack oil. I'd let them soak for awhile to make sure the oil trickles down and fills the shock. You should be able to move the shock arm but with resistance. This is not recommended but try a thicker oil. I have used up to 90 wt. oil in my '40 shocks to keep them from leaking at the arm seals and they worked fine. They will be stiff in cold weather but otherwise OK. Understand the $1000.You have to put the same weight oil in both of them or they will be unbalanced.
Hi Mike, so i have done with the first one, but don´t know if it works right. Today i will get the new King Pin Set and on Saturday or Monday the Suspension would be assembled again. Think i make a Video and put it on Youtube, so all here can say to me, if it works good or should be replaced. Put so many Time in this car, bad shocks are not the way i want to close this restauration. It is interesting, about this shocks is not many to find in the WWW
At this moment i realise that i did a big mistake. Wonder all the time, why i should fill the Shocks only 3/4 with oil, like Apple Hydr. says on his side. Because in my Mind it is not good to have much air in a hydraulik shock. But this Moment i look again - and when you read righ - you see that they mean you should leave 3/4 inch air space. So there is not enough oil in there at the moment. That makes me hopeful for tomorrow.
Don't understand 3/4" inch air space. From the 1940 Shop Manual "The spring shop absorbers should be kept "filled" with a low viscosity (light body) shock insulation fluid". . . No mention of 3/4" air space. I have always filled mine full to the fill port. When the shock is installed with the wheel in place there is no way that you can see down into the shock to tell if there is 3/4" air space. Many years ago I worked in a service station where we used an oil can to service the shocks and we filled them until they ran over. We serviced the shocks every time the car was lubed. Normally at 2,000 miles and yes, most of the shock absorbers leaked both front and back. We had a special crooked spout on the oil can for servicing the rear shock absorbers which are more difficult to service than the front shocks.
WHAT TYPE OF FLUID SHOULD BE USED FOR THE LEVER SHOCKS?
Shocks come filled with fluid, no need to check for 5 years. Do not over fill, please leave a 3/4” air space to allow for expansion of fluid when shock heats up during use. Use a good grade hydraulic oil such as Hydraulic jack oil obtained at most auto part stores in pint containers, or motorcycle fork oil in 10 or 20 weight, again be sure not to overfill. Please do not use motor oil, brake fluid or transmission fluid, these fluids are not compatible with the seals and rubber components. (10 to 20 weight SAE viscosity rating is equivalent to AW 46 hydraulic viscosity rating.) Apple Hydraulics rebuilt shocks come filled with fluid, please do not remove filler plug for 5 years.
They have a gross overstatement. How do they know that you may go 50,000 miles in those five years. Chevrolet said every 5000 miles when new. Running the fluud too low can cause wear and increase the chance of leaking. IF THE WARRANTY THEM FOR MORE THAN FIVE YEARS I WOULD DO WHAT THEY SAY.
I agree with Chevgene. I had my front shocks rebuilt by Apple about 20 years ago and the shocks worked just fine and did not leak. But, they were seeping fluid within 3 years and are still seeping fluid to this day. I service the shocks every fall when I quit driving much. It usually takes about 4 pumps on the oil can to top them up (front) the rear shocks often don't require servicing. Since your shocks have not been rebuilt by Apple I suspect they are going to at least seep fluid at the shaft seals, I would go by the book.
It seems that there should be a company in Europe that would rebuild your shocks? Why don't you call Stefen for a suggestion? I also think you need to rebuild both/all shocks from a safety stand point. It is possible to drive at low speeds with bad shocks. This is not the case at speeds over 40 MPH where a slight bump in the road could cause you to loose control. Lastly, I assume you have invested well over $40,000 in your car, do you really want to risk an accident because you didn't spend another $2,000 on shocks? I also assume that if your shocks leak you will not be able to pass your safety inspection to license the car?
Unfortunately, restoring a vehicle is usually full of decisions that call into question our best judgement. The list could be long as yours has already been, and mine were. Perhaps you need to look at your long term goals and adjust them? It took me over 15 years to complete my restoration, and I still have more to do.
Best wishes always, Mike
P.s. Take some time to review your pictures and videos to remind yourself of all your past accomplishments. Yours has been an exceptional journey, we all thank you for restoring an American vehicle.
Hello Mike, Thank you for the Link. 159$ was the shipping, Apple told me after mailing with them . Yes, I've found two Companies, who rebuild this Art of Shocks. The first one told me to contact Apple Hydrauliks and on the other Company, the Specialist is back not for Monday. So i have to wait. The Leak of the shock was only the Cover, Shaft Seals seem to be okay. Yesterday, after the video, put the Shock back on the Car and checked the Oil again, after a few more pumps. Some more oil drops i could insert and it seems that it damps a little bit better, especially upwards. Than assembled the suspension complete and tested the damping. It is very difficult to say, if you have no comparison, but it seems ok. The car did't bounce much times, but there is only the engine on the Frame. Monday i will have a look on the other shock, if there is Oil inside. Damping is the same as on the other shock. 40000$ ? You would be surprised, i've spend not more than 12.000 Dollar in the last 3 Years, Engine included and when it would be neccassery to spend another 1500$ for new Shocks i will do, sure. Thank you for the motivating words and I would thank you all that you help me to keep this American Car on the Road. Will hope it is back again on street in 2019.
By the way, the King Pin Set from MOOG 8282B fits perfect and is also for the Corvette C1
Ok, now i have a problem. The left one is definitely broken, because the right one works much better. It was no oil inside too, but i refilled him and as you can see on the Video Second Shock Absorber he works much better. Oil refilling is a long time job, because you must pump round about 50 times to get all the air outside. Will test this again on the other one, because the massive damping comes from one minute to the other by refilling with oil. Fingers cross
At this moment i realise that i did a big mistake. Wonder all the time, why i should fill the Shocks only 3/4 with oil, like Apple Hydr. says on his side. Because in my Mind it is not good to have much air in a hydraulik shock. But this Moment i look again - and when you read righ 
- you see that they mean you should leave 3/4 