VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1929-1932 1930 Starting

After several months away from working on this car, I am refocused. Thanks for all the suggestions. I did try and "reseat " the gas/glass bowl last week and
filled it with gas in order to get gas moving(if that is the problem). NO LUCK. NO CHANGE. WON'T START.

Question. Should I need to prime the pump to start? ( Idon't remember having to do that 5 yrs. ago.)

Question Do u think the pump needs to be rebuilt in this short time?

Question I am pretty sure, for the glass bowl/filter, the gasket, rubber in my case,, goes TO THE TOP of the assembly

I am going to play close attn. to Smokeman, Terry and Harrys 31 Coach in the next few days.

Yes, I am a member of the VCCA

In some of our old cars that sit for awhile the needle valves in the carburetor will stick in the closed position. When the car was shut down the carb bowl was full. This traps air between the pump and carb. The pump at times can not overcome that cushion of air and can not even fill the pump bowl. I have had to give the carb a couple of sharp taps near the inlet to "unstick" the needle valve. Try loosening the compression fitting on the downstream side of the pump just a little. Bear in mind it may take several minutes of cranking to see anything in the bowl. Do not run the starter that long in a single attempt. It needs to cool down after 15 to 20 second bursts. Make sure you at least have an undamaged screen type filter in the pump. One of the paper filters from the FS is better.

Glad that you are a member. However, your profile on this site doesn't reflect that you are a member of the Vintage Chevrolet Club of America, so you might want to update your profile with that info. and also add the VCCA logo to your user name.

I have found that many of the fuel pump housings particularly at the glass bowl are warped. The warp comes from tightening the bale holding the glass bowl too tight. Over time the die-cast will warp. Rubber gaskets are too stiff to compress enough to seal the glass bowl. Try a fairly thick cork gasket. Any air leaking past the gasket will keep the pump from working.

For those that tried to help me several months ago, I finally resolved the problem by having the carburetor rebuilt. The "plunger" thing on the side was not operating. Sorry for the stupid description but someone will set me straight. NOW, THE PROBLEM IS, between the idle adjustment and the throttle adjustment, I can't quite get it adjusted where the car runs smooth.
CAN YOU HELP?

That is called the "accelerator pump assembly".

On the car not running smooth, can you describe what it is doing? Also, have you checked the timing on your car and, if so, what is the timing> What spark plugs are you running?

JD..I haven't checked the timing in 8 months or so. (That is to say, when it was last done by others.) The spark plugs are the same ones I had when I drove it from my old warehouse to my new one, 12 months ago. They are the ones I purchased from FS.

The car will start pretty good if I start it 2 times a week. It will run and I will push in the throttle on the dash. It seems that after a few minutes it will get running rough. I will try adjusting the idle screw or the throttle screw with mixed results.

I have a timing light but I have never set the timing on my 1930. I have set the timing on a Mustang.

We could use specifics to help you with your questions.......such as what brand and type of spark plugs did you buy from the Filling Station? What do you have the spark plugs gapped at? Describe running rough.....what does the car do when it is running rough.....backfiring, missing, idle speed increases and decreases, popping out the tailpipe at idle?? Also, you or someone needs to check the timing to verify what the exact timing is currently.

thank you. will ck on some of these things tomorrow. I am currently trying to re install the front apron in addition
to all else. I am still resolving the clearance issues from 3 years ago.!!!!!!!

A couple of things come to mind.

1. The timing light that you use on your Mustang relies on 12V to power it. Unless your Chevy has been converted to 12V, you will need another power source. I used the battery from my riding mower. With an external source, make certain that you connect the negative of the external source to the frame of the Chevy otherwise you will fry your timing light.

2. Your rough running problem could be as simple as the choke not being fully open - a simple adjustment of the cable to the dash.

You really do need to check it. Where we store our cars ML had another member who was familiar with newer Chevrolets tune up his 29. They set it at the UC mark. It along with air getting past the water pump was a big factor in the car overheating and cracking the head in 4 places. Art

I usually drive my 31 daily. However, if I have to let her (my car is a lady) sit for a
while, I merely pump the gas petal several times, and she starts right up. That seems to "move" the gas in the carb, or prime it.