VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1912-1928 1927 Chevrolet AA start up

Every time I want to start the car, it needs to be primed with some starting fluid. Any reason why I would have to do this?

I dont know about the updraft carb. but my 52 needs a prime if it sets for a week or more. Does your car need the prime every time?

Yes pretty much.

Does your vacuum tank have a shutoff valve (petcock) at the bottom? If not, you might want to put one in.

If the carb's needle valve doesn't seat exactly right and their is no valve at the bottom of the vacuum tank, the gas can flow freely from the tank and through the carb and evaporate. Then, you need to prime the carb to get going again.

This happens to me on my '28 when I forget to shut off the valve at the bottom of the vacuum tank. When I shut off the gas flow, my truck can sit for a couple of months and then start right up.

Cheers, Dean

Cheers, Dean

It does have a shut off valve.

Hmmm. Is there gas flowing from the vacuum tank to the carb when you open that valve? Another thing to check is the little screen/gas filter that is inside the inlet of the carb. That screen gets clogged with junk. The carb might be starved for gas when starting.

Timing is also critical. With cylinder 1 at Top Dead Center (TDC) and the spark lever in the fully retarded position (pulled down toward the driver), the points should just start to open to provide spark to cylinder 1. It is important to not have the spark happen before TDC when starting.

Here's my procedure for starting my truck:

1. Turn on the gas valve at the bottom of the vacuum tank. If the truck has been sitting for a very long time, I occasionally have to prime the vacuum tank. I installed a 1/8 NPT plug at the top of the inlet line for this purpose.

2. Fully retard the spark lever.

3. Pull the throttle lever down (open) a bit. Something like 3/4" to 1" down.

4. Make sure the transmission is in neutral. Do not start the engine with the clutch pedal depressed.

5. Turn on the key.

6. Pull and hold the choke out.

7. Step on the starter button.

After the engine starts and runs for a few seconds, I ease off the choke and slowly advance the spark until the spark lever is in its fully advanced position. Then, usually, the engine is running faster than I'd like so I back off the throttle lever, but still leaving the engine running at a fast idle.

After a few moments, when the engine sounds like it is running smoothly, I'll push the throttle lever all the way up so that the engine is idling correctly (500-600 rpm).

Hope this helps.

Cheers, Dean

When I start it I never have to retard the timing. I spray a little spray and it starts?????

Most of my 4 cylinder Chevys will start with just a little choke. Mostly hit starter button with timing a little retarded, a little advanced throttle and when the engine starts to rotate then pull out choke and within a few seconds the engine fires so push in the choke and let idle at fast idle. If colder than 70 deg. then might have to have the choke out for a longer time.

The rest of the day all I have to do it tap the starter button and the engine is running.

My '28 Canopy Express does not like to start so it takes a little shot of carburetor cleaner to get initial firing. After that it acts like the others. I should add that engine is slap worn out. Makes many sounds, crankshaft moves forward and aft by approx. 1/4" but still runs. When it breaks or the noise gets too obnoxious I will fix it.

You should retard the timing for startup, otherwise some damage can occur. Both the Owners Manual and the Shop manual discuss this issue.

If the spark is advanced during startup (the spark happens before TDC), the starter is fighting the explosion in the cylinder to get the engine to turn over. If the spark is retarded (set to fire at TDC) for startup, the starter has an easier chore to get the engine turning over.

Then, after the engine is running a few moments, you slowly advance the spark so that the engine runs smoother.

It all has to do with the amount of time it requires for the burning fuel to go from the tip of the spark plug to the top of the piston.

When the engine is turning slowly (during cranking), the fuel burn reaches the piston before TDC and causes the starter difficulty. When the engine is running faster, the piston can move up and compress the fuel/air mixture so that the fuel burn happens in time to push the piston down.

Cheers, Dean

Well i think i finally got it..

Hello everyone.Newby here.Just recently realized a lifelong dream of owning an old Chevy(27 Capitol AA coupe.)When I got the car it did'nt have an ignition key something the seller failed to tell me.I called him and he says turn the switch on the light switch to the left.???Seemed strange to me but it actually started.I go poking around under the hood and notice the coil was hooked up backwards.Also the coil was getting very hot.I change everything to the way it should be but it wouldn't start.I put in a toggle switch but still no go, but after reading previous post I see I have to wire through the ammeter.What post do you put the positive to or does it matter?The coil bracket has an external condensor.It's about 1 3/4",the new one I put one is about 1 1/4".Any difference? Now onto fuel.I failed to close the petcock on the vacuum tank so I think I need to prime the system.I took down the fuel bowl and it had a bit of trash in it.Should I take it back off and put some gas in it?How much gas do I need to put in the vacuum tank? What grade of gas is best?Last question.I have an original owners manual and it says the gas cap should have a small hole in it for the system to work.Mine does not but it did run. Any help would be appreciated,as it's killing me just looking at the car and not be able to drive it.Thanks,Charlie.
P.S. Very excited about finding this site!

Hi Charlie,

Welcome to the VCCA's Chatter forums! This is the best place to mingle with kindred souls and enjoy the fascinating world of old Chevys!

Sounds like your car is in pretty good shape. In another thread in this category, I posted a list of things to do that might be of interest to you. You'll find it here: Bringing an old Chevy back to life

BTW, if you join the VCCA, there are MANY benefits that far outweigh the modest cost. For example, you will be able to use this site's Search Function to help you find answers to questions that have been asked before. You'll also get a great monthly magazine and access to a lot of technical articles that are very helpful.

Cheers, Dean

There is a flapper valve on the inner tank that needs to close to be able to apply vacuum to the fuel tank. Many vacuum tanks require that flapper to be wet with gas to seal enough so it will pull from the fuel tank. The vacuum tank holds approx. 1 qt of gas. Partially filling the tank can help it work as intended. Any gas grade is okay. Yes definitely clean out any crud you find.

Seems that you might need to verify that you are getting power to the coil and then distributor and finally the spark plugs. You can take the wire from the coil and quickly strike it against a ground to verify that a spark is produced. Then with the wire back on the coil, open and close the points with the coil wire to the distributor cap approx. 1/2 inch from a ground. You should get a spark that "snaps". Of course if you don't get the expected spark they you need to find out why?

The post for the positive wire from the battery generally goes to the ammeter terminal on the battery side of a '27. If it is the wrong terminal the ammeter will read backwards.