Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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#383710 02/10/17 12:09 AM
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Has anyone moved their battery from under the floorboard to the trunk? I'm going to move battery, but seeing if anyone has done it on vcca.
Thank you
Michael
38 Town Sedan

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My experience with battery location is the closer to the main current user (starter motor) the better and more so with 6v. The more copper the better even on short runs.
Tony


1938 1/2 ton Hope to drive it before I retire
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You definitely don't want to put a conventional lead acid battery in the trunk. If you put one in the trunk it should be a sealed gelcel type battery. That seems like a very long run for a six volt system.

I have often wondered if it is possible to adapt the 1940 style frame battery bracket to the 38 Master.

Last edited by old216; 02/10/17 10:55 AM.

My 1951 1 Ton is now on the road! My 38 Master 4 Door is also now on the road .
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When moving the battery to the trunk area, you pretty much need to use the biggest battery or welding cable you can find, otherwise you will have a big voltage drop to the starter.

Also make sure you have a good ground from battery too frame and also motor to frame !

mike lynch................. hood

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All good points, I will be converting to 12 volts and go with an optima.

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When I got my '37 back in about 1967, it had the battery on the firewall above the starter. I put it back under the floor board, kind of unhandy but that is where it is supposed to be. Really no problem, just more difficult to replace it when the time comes.
chevy


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Solafide,
if you still have the original headlight setup, Ron Francais Wiring sells a really bright 12 volt bulb that fits in the original socket. I have a set in waiting for the day I convert my Master to 12 volts.


My 1951 1 Ton is now on the road! My 38 Master 4 Door is also now on the road .
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If you're wanting to run 12v headlight bulbs, there are converter devices that step up 6v to 12v. One can be discretely installed in each headlight bucket without modifying anything else on the car/wiring. Been years since I looked at them but there were several high quality electronic switching supply options out there that didn't use much more current than the original bulbs.


1938 Canadian Pontiac Business Coupe (aka a 1938 Chevy Coupe with Pontiac shaped front sheet metal - almost all Chevy!)
1975 4-speed L82 Vette
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I am planning on moving my '38 Master battery to the firewall. I will leave the original battery box in place, but I want the battery out from under the floor so I won't have to pick the mat up all the time and risk tearing it. I will remove the original cables and I am going to have a new positive cable made from at least 00 welding cable. I will probably stick with the braided type for ground. Yes, I will have to drill a couple of holes in the firewall but IMHO, that is better than tearing up the mat. Beamer


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Beamer

Look at the battery box for a '40 or later. It mounts directly to the frame and could maybe be cobbled up to work on a '38. It mounts directly to the frame. Mounting holes are in the flanges of the frame and not as visible as holes in the firewall.


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Mike,
Thanks for the tip. I will look into that. I have a couple of old battery boxes I have picked up here and there thinking I could modify one of them to fit my car. I am sure I can fit one to the frame - much better idea. Thanks again. Beamer


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That is great to know, thank you. My car is mostly stock and some bright headlights would be nice

Originally Posted by old216
Solafide,
if you still have the original headlight setup, Ron Francais Wiring sells a really bright 12 volt bulb that fits in the original socket. I have a set in waiting for the day I convert my Master to 12 volts.

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One of my 37 Chevys has the 6 volt battery on firewall as there
is no room under floor. Guaranteed skinned knuckles when working on steering or starter. I live in Berkeley if you want to take a look. Lou

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Lou
Thanks, might just take you up on that offer.
mike

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I have a 37 2 dr Master and found there is enough room in the fender well to accomodate a battery. Pros, its close to the starter. Cons, somewhat difficult to remove, suseptible to dirt that the tire will throw up at it.


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