Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks


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Lurch's water pump leaked and the pulley can be pushed in and out, so I was wondering what I'd find in there.

I was pleasantly surprised that the baffle plate was still in there, even though it is all rusted. The impeller is a little worn and the bushing (bearing) is shot, so this will get a rebuild. Below is a picture.

The water pump cavity is very clean. No chunks of rust. This makes sense since for the last 20 years, I've kept clean coolant in this engine. Time and further examination will determine if I use this block or not for the final build.

Oh my goodness, has it been that long? Yep, I got Lurch got on the road in the summer of 1995. Nobody knows when this engine was opened up before. To quote a long-time VCCA member, Mercy!!

Below is a pic of the clean water pump cavity (as found) in Lurch's block.

Cheers, Dean

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[Linked Image from vccachat.org]

Last edited by Rustoholic; 06/17/18 10:08 PM.

Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
old and ugly is beautiful!



Filling Station - Chevrolet & GMC Reproduction Parts


Filling Station


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Like other areas of Lurch's engine, the cam gear cavity was dirty and oily, but not clogged up. The gears look pretty good and it seems that oil circulated around them okay. carrot

Below are a couple of pics.

Cheers, Dean

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Last edited by Rustoholic; 06/17/18 10:09 PM.

Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
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Now to look under the beast. The oil pan is dirty, but very little sludge and only surface rust. Very nice.

Likewise, the bottom end is oily, but not clogged up with sludge and no rust to speak of.

Notice the baling wire locking the rear main bearing cap bolts. 20 years ago, one of the bolts dropped out and the other broke. Not realizing this happened, I drove Lurch with only the oil pan holding the main bearing cap in place! After I discovered this problem, I put in bolts and wired them together.

Here's the full story of that adventure: Lurch's first saga

Cheers, Dean

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Last edited by Rustoholic; 06/17/18 10:09 PM.

Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
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Time to continue the tear down of Lurch's engine.

First up is a bottom up view of one of the cylinders. Oily, but smooth and not scored. Nice!

Second photo is the bottom end with the oil pump and distributor removed. Nothing much to comment on, other than all looks nicely lubed. You can easily see the oil distributor and tubes that deliver oil to the oil troughs.

Cheers, Dean

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Last edited by Rustoholic; 06/17/18 10:10 PM.

Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
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With the camshaft removed, the lifter bottoms are exposed.

My eyes!! Too bright!! luv2

They are so shiny that they seemed to be chrome plated. This is not just flash reflection from the camera. Well, some of that, but look at the one at the far right. No reflection there. Way shinier than the lifters from the other engines.

Wow. Dean

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Last edited by Rustoholic; 06/17/18 10:11 PM. Reason: typo

Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
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Today my chore is to catch you up on the tear down.

Below are pictures of:

  • The front oil cavity in the block as found. Dirty, but nothing is blocked. Oil flowed freely.
  • Crankshaft with rod caps taken off. The journals seem to be in good shape (no rust pits). The crank might be a keeper.
  • Lurch's pistons. At first glance, they are in good shape. Upon closer examination, they are too worn to reuse. Also, a couple of them show minute cracks in the babbitt on the crank bearings.


Cheers, Dean

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[Linked Image from vccachat.org]

Last edited by Rustoholic; 06/17/18 10:11 PM.

Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
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Warning: long post. Lots of words and only one picture. Grab a cup and sip in slowly.

After taking the pistons, I removed the main bearing caps and took out the crank and flywheel, as I did for all three engines.

Tear down complete! It sure is fun taking stuff apart. carrot

Now for a closer inspection of the parts in the various piles in my work space (a covered patio behind my 8x12 shop). The piles are labeled WA (the engine I received from Dick Olson in Washington), PENN (the engine I had in the back shed that came from the Penninsula across the bay from me), and Lurch ('nuf said).

My gut feeling is that most of the parts for the final build will come from Lurch's engine, since he was running most recently and I know was well lubricated (at least for the last 22 years). There will be some new parts added to the build as the inspection dictates.

I'm going to start with the block, which will lead me down a decision path with regards to other parts.

The first decision is one of elimination: I am not going to use the PENN block (the second one I tore down). It is obvious to me that this engine was run ragged until it was being held together by sludge and not much else. The state of the cylinder walls and pistons were bad enough to not warrant measuring.

To measure the cylinders of the other two engines, I borrowed a dial bore gauge and large micrometer from my good friend Andy Shyers, the local High School Auto Shop Teacher. The dial is in .0001 of an inch. Cool!

I set the micrometer to 3.689 inches (.0015 over the original 3.6875 bore) and set the dial bore gauge to zero for this measurement. So the dial will tell me how far over 3.689 each measurement is. Some simple addition and viola, I have the current bore size.

I looked at some youtube instruction videos about this process and found that I should measure each cylinder in three places near the top, three places in the middle, and three places at the bottom to get an accurate picture of the shape and size of the cylinder. So each cylinder gets nine measurements.

To make a long story short, I chose to use the WA block because the cylinders had the least amount of wear.

Even so, the cylinders were worn in a slight ellipse and were uneven enough so that I decided to take the block to a local, highly recommended machine shop for evaluation.

Before taking the block to a machine shop, I brought it to San Leandro High School's auto shop, where they put it in a giant washing machine to clean it. See the pic below.

Wade (he's the block guy) at Hubbard's Machine Shop in Hayward, CA) is the person I'm working with. He has done work for Andy (the high school auto shop teacher) and a couple of VCCA members, so I feel confident that he'll steer me right. He's mainly a F**d guy (with many, many years of experience with the oldies), so I loaned him my shop manual and a printed out copy of the celebrated "School is in Session" book.

He did a preliminary bore and said the cylinders would clean up nicely at .060 over the original bore. I gave him the go-ahead and he told me to order the new pistons and rings from Egge.

I told him that I had heard mixed reviews about Egge. He said that in the past, those mixed reviews were true. Egge used to use ground up transmission cases as raw material and consequently, their pourings were not good quality. Evidently, they have cleaned up their act. They only use ingot materials now and have been buying up piston molds from other manufactures as they have gone out of the business.

Wade said he used to have to order two sets of pistons in order to maybe get one good one. No longer. The quality coming from Egge now is night and day from what it use to be.

I will comment further when the pistons arrive and Wade inspects them.

Here's a table that describes some other decisions I have made about parts from the three piles:

  • Piston rods: Two from Lurch, one from WA, one from PENN. Out of the twelve rods, eight had babbitt issues.
  • Crankshaft, Camshaft, and cam gears: I'll use Lurch's crankshaft, cam shaft, and cam gears. The parts from the other engines had rust pits on bearing surfaces and the gears where either worn or incorrect.
  • Flywheel: I am going to use Lurch's flywheel. From the tear downs and my stash of parts, I have five to choose from. Lurch's is in the best shape.
  • Distributor: Use Lurch's 635B (which is correct and in good shape), but replace the driving gear.
  • Water pump: Use Lurch's water pump, but rebuild it.
  • Head: I have two to choose from; Lurch's and from the PENN engine. The PENN engine's head is full of rust in the water jacket and the valves are ground low into the head. So, I'll grind Lurch's valves and put new bushings and shafts on the rocker arms. The water jacket does not contain chunks of rust and that makes me happy!
  • Oil pump: Although Lurch's oil pump consistently showed 10 PSI, I am reluctant to count on that pump for the new-ish engine. Following Ray Holland's advice from "School is in Session", I'm going to get a new gear-type oil pump.
  • Throw out bearing: Although not part of the engine rebuild as such, while I have the tranny out, I am going to replace the solid throw out bearing with a newer ball bearing type.
  • Transmission: Also not strickly part of the '28 resurrection, Lurch's 3-speed needs help. It drops out of first gear by itself and the front bearing is extremely worn. I have built up a 4-speed replacement from the best parts from two other transmissions. I believe the 4-speed was an option for 1927 and the granny first gear will be useful in parades.


That's all I can think of right now. As I run into stuff during the rebuild, I'll post it along with my ramblings and thoughts on the matter.

Cheers, Dean

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Last edited by Rustoholic; 02/10/20 02:45 PM. Reason: typo

Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
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With the block at the machine shop and parts ordered (pistons from Egge and the rest from the Filling Station), the next order of business is to work on Lurch's head. Being from California, that could mean lots of things, but not this time. dance

Below are a couple of pictures of the head before I started taking it apart. There are a few things that I noticed:

  • There are no flow inserts in the intake manifold.
  • The rocker arms are very loose on their shaft.
  • There is no thermostat in the front housing.


Cheers, Dean

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Last edited by Rustoholic; 06/17/18 10:13 PM.

Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
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Next was to take out the valves and see what's inside the head.

With the springs off, the valves came out nicely. They look good for the rebuild.

The first picture shows some of the valves open. At this point I'm pleased with what I see.

I pull all the valves out, turn the head to look in the intake and exhaust cavities, and WHAM, I SEE A SHOW STOPPER!! ref

A BIG chunk of the valve stem casting is broken off and there is a crack that indicates another chunk could break off at any time. See the second picture below.

Jeez Loueeze, I've been driving Lurch around on and off for over 20 years and it must've been like this all along. willy

Well, this head is toast for my rebuild, so I'll start tearing down the other '28 head that was my second choice for the rebuild.

Stay tuned! Never a dull moment!

Cheers, Dean

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[Linked Image from vccachat.org]

Last edited by Rustoholic; 06/17/18 10:13 PM. Reason: added verbiage

Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
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So, the head from the Penn engine has moved to the head of the line. Hopefully, this is in better shape than Lurch's head.

The first thing I notice is that the intake flow tubes are 90 percent clogged with solid sludge or carbon. Can't tell exactly what it is, but it acts like dried shellac. Makes me wonder how they got this way. The only thing I can think of is that the intake gaskets did not make a good seal, the atmosphere around the engine was dirty and oily, and the intake vacuum sucked a lot of that dirty atmosphere into the intake ports. bonk

The rockers move nicely. The bottom of the head shows a lot of carbon buildup and some rust. See the pics below.

Dean

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[Linked Image from vccachat.org]

Last edited by Rustoholic; 06/17/18 10:14 PM.

Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
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With the valves out, I can now inspect the head in more depth.

In the first photo below, two sets of valves are shown. The valves in the rear came from Lurch's head. The front row of valves is from the Penn head. Lurch's valves are in much better shape than those from the Penn head, so I'll use the rear row for the rebuild.

Hmmm. The carbon/sludge buildup is way more in the intake cavities than the exhaust cavities. I'm speculating that the valve stem guides are worn enough so that spent combustion is exhausted up the side of the exhaust valve stems and then, oil and exhaust fumes are sucked down the intake valve stems into the intake cavity.

I don't know this, but it's my theory. I am certainly open to other ideas about how this buildup was caused.

Cheers, Dean

[Linked Image from vccachat.org]
[Linked Image from vccachat.org]

Last edited by Rustoholic; 06/17/18 10:17 PM.

Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
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Loving this Dean, Should be taking apart mine soon so this is giving me a good "heads up" on what to expect. I also have my main engine and a parts one, hope it helps me.
Keep up the good work and ideas


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Thanks for the kind words, Steve.

As I mentioned near the top of this thread, I've never attempted a engine project like this before and I'm using this web site as a diary/discussion point for the project.

A major thanks to the VCCA and the Web Volunteers who have provided and maintain this site so that I can have so much fun with it!! thanku

Cheers, Dean


Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
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Ever onward!

Lurch's valves fit quite loosely in the guides from the Penn head, so I took the head and valves to Hubbard's Machine and asked them to install new cast iron valve stem guides.

On to the next part of the project: the thermostat housing.

I took the housing off of Lurch's head and the bolts broke off. ;-( Not surprising.

The first picture below shows the inside of the housing as I found it. You can see the rust buildup on the bolts. I took a dremel cutoff wheel and cut the bolts as far down in the cavity as I could. Then, they were easy to pound out with a punch and hammer.

The next picture shows the housing with the bolts removed. yay

Cheers, Dean

[Linked Image from vccachat.org]
[Linked Image from vccachat.org]

Last edited by Rustoholic; 06/17/18 10:18 PM.

Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
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There was no thermostat in either engine, so there was no thermostat holding bracket. Whatcha gonna do? Make one!

In my scrap metal pile, I have a piece of sheet brass (.030 thick) that was originally a security bracket that went around a door knob. This should work well as a thermostat holding bracket. dance

The first picture below shows the layout of the bracket drawn on the brass sheet. The square is roughly 2 1/4 inches. The hole for the thermostat is 1 3/8 inches in diameter and the two holes for the bolts are 1/4 diameter.

Notice the hole cutting bit in the picture. I used this (after drilling a pilot hole) to score the circle for the thermostat. This bit did not cut all the way through the brass, but dug into it enough so that I could then use a narrow chisel to punch through (next picture).

BTW, the thermostat is from Napa and opens at 160 degrees. It was listed in their parts book as going into a 1955 Chevy Bel Air.

Cheers, Dean

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[Linked Image from vccachat.org]
[Linked Image from vccachat.org]

Last edited by Rustoholic; 06/17/18 10:19 PM.

Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
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After cutting out the hole for the thermostat, I drilled the holes for the two 1/4x20x1/2 brass bolts that will hold the bracket in place. For drilling sheet metal, I like using a stepped unibit type of drill bit. It cuts nicely and does not grab like a normal bit would do.

Next, I cut off the extra material using a hack saw and tin snips.

Viola!! Thermostat installed. One small step for mankind, one.... well, you get the idea.

Cheers, Dean

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[Linked Image from vccachat.org]

Last edited by Rustoholic; 06/17/18 10:20 PM.

Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
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Next on the docket is to build up a distributor.

I have two to work with: one from Lurch's engine and the other that came in Justin's engine. Seven years ago, when I was getting Justin's engine to work, I replaced the distributor with one that I had in my stash.

The distributor that was in Dick Olson's engine was a weird, rusted hulk that is good as a conversation piece only. greenman

The picture below shows the two distributors. The one on the left came from Lurch's engine.

You can see that the driving gear in Lurch's distributor is very worn compared to the distributor on the right. So, I'll start the distributor build with the one on the right. Lurch's distributor will contribute parts as needed.

Cheers, Dean

[Linked Image from vccachat.org]

Last edited by Rustoholic; 06/17/18 10:20 PM.

Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
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How are ya gonna hold a round distributor in a square vise? A number of years ago, I invented a special holder for the 635B distributor to make working on them easier. I'm still waiting for the Patent Office to recognize my achievement. laugh

The holder is a piece of hardwood with a hole that matches the outside diameter of the driving gear. The wood is split so it can clamp onto the gear, while providing a square-ish profile for the vise. VCCA members can use this idea without paying any royalties. All others must mail me a coupon for the drink of my choice at Starbucks.

At the top of the first picture, you can see that the slot where the rotor fits has some damage. I suspect that at one time, the distributor was dropped and hit the floor at this spot. I tried to fit a rotor on there, but it will not seat properly because the plastic tang under the rotor will not go into the slot.

In the second picture, I am holding the point mounting plate. Under it, you can see the centrifugal advancing mechanism. These parts are in good shape, but there is a lot of dried grease in there, so they just need to be cleaned and oiled.

Cheers, Dean

[Linked Image from vccachat.org]
[Linked Image from vccachat.org]


Last edited by Rustoholic; 06/17/18 10:21 PM.

Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
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My, that is a lot of work when you can buy a repro of the original thermostat retaining bracket at a reasonable price.

You must have a lot of time on your hands.

Regards

Ray

Last edited by 1928isgreat; 06/28/17 05:55 PM.

Some say "Street is neat". I prefer "1928 is great"

I have documented my 45 years with a 1928 Chev Tourer, from 1973 to 2018, and regulary add other items that I hope are of interest to others. Your comments are most welcome.The story of the Red Chev can be viewed at http://my28chev.blogspot.com/
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Hi Ray,

I looked for a repro thermostat bracket, but didn't find any.

Oh well, wouldn't be the first time I missed something! I had fun making it, so all is well.

Cheers, Dean


Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
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I might install a thermostat retainer as well so "Do tell", who caries them? I looked in an older FS catalog 2015 and did not find it.

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Hey Dean,

I am following your resurrecting with some interest as I will be going down that same path in the short to mid term future. Would like to do a full posting of your work on my 28 Chev blog down the track if that's ok
with your good self.

Regards

Ray


Some say "Street is neat". I prefer "1928 is great"

I have documented my 45 years with a 1928 Chev Tourer, from 1973 to 2018, and regulary add other items that I hope are of interest to others. Your comments are most welcome.The story of the Red Chev can be viewed at http://my28chev.blogspot.com/
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Hi again Ray,

I'm flattered that you'd want to post this thread on your blog. It is fine with me. carbana

I suggest you wait until the new Chatter software is in place and working well.

Cheers, Dean


Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
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I got the block back from Hubbard's Machine shop.

Absolutely beautiful! Lurch will be giddy with a heart that is so clean and not worn. luv2

They bored the cylinders out .060 inch and shaved .010 inch off the top so that the new head gasket will seal well.

While they had it, they also took the freeze plugs out and cleaned the water jacket as best as can be.

Cheers, Dean

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[Linked Image from vccachat.org]


Last edited by Rustoholic; 06/17/18 10:22 PM.

Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
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Here's a few more pics of the block. All the oil reservoirs were clean except for the reservoir for the center main bearing. The third picture below shows the center reservoir using a mirror.

Yes, the mirror is cracked. Kinda like it's owner. willy

Dean

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[Linked Image from vccachat.org]

Last edited by Rustoholic; 06/17/18 10:23 PM.

Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
old and ugly is beautiful!



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