VCCA Home Forums GENERAL DISCUSSION General Discussions measurement required for 34 chevrolet Std coupe

Would anyone be able to provide me with the following measurements
.
One. Grille crank hole measurement from either top or bottom of grille mesh

Two. Correct position of the Tail light stork mounting / bolt holes.

Three. Rumble seat fender Rubber Step.

I can do 2 & 3 from some ratty fenders I have. Australian 34 Std has a rumble seat?...Joe

Paul I have a 34 Chevy Standard Roadster Holden body with a rumble seat. Would those be good dimensions that you could use?
Rory

Hi Joe Rory and Mike Thank's for your replies.
My coupe is a New Zealand Chevrolet DC Modal assembled at the Chevrolet plant shipped to New Zealand in CKD??? form. Arrived in New Plymouth NZ in 1935 from Canada it is a Fisher body. The coupes here had either open boot or Rumble seat
I have a Stainless steel Replacement Grille that i wish to cut and fit the crank hole surround and have not found where I have stored the chrome pieces that run down the centre of the grille. If I could find them then I would be able to work it out for my self.
The Tail light stork holes were leaded over years ago when i fitted hella taillights.This time I will fit the Original tail lights to the car

Paul. Is the a bracket (spreader) still on the inside of the rear fender? If so there's a hole in it for the one of the tail light bolts. I'll get the other information...Joe

Paul here are the dimensions that you are looking for. I have an extra 34 DC Standard Grille with a 2-1/2 inch from the bottom of the hole to the bottom edge of the Grille. The finished assembled dimension should be 2-1/8 inch to the sst trim piece.

Here is the finished dimensions of the rear taillight stork and the rumble seat fender step.

Tail light dimension from the tail light rubber mounting pad is 1/2 inch from where the fender mounts to the body and 11-3/4 inches from the edge of the rear fender lip to the lower side of the taillight rubber mounting pad.

Rumble seat fender rubber step rubber mounting pad is 1/2 inch from where the fender mounts to the body and 26 inches from the edge of the rear fender lip to the lower side of the rumble seat step rubber mounting pad.

Again these are finished dimension. Your best bet would be to make a thin cardboard template of your parts and then transfer the holes over to your rear fender.

Hope this helps!

Rory
1934 Chevrolet Standard DC Sport Roadster for sale
1933 Ford 3 Window Coupe
1934 Ford 4 Door Sedan under construction
1933 Ford 4 Door Phaeton

Hi Joe. There are no brackets or spreader on my Fenders /guards. I guess I should be looking for them as well.
Paul.

Hi Rory.Thank for your reply. At the moment I have the fenders / guards of the body. so I may need to mount the fenders back on the body to ensure I drill the right spot.
Paul.

Rory........USA but, mostly its Canadian built coupes, standard series would all be the same fenders, front rear as Holden .

Holden GM Australia only made "their own version" of **the body**, roadster, coupes , phaetons, sedans, coaches. And those main body parts are not the same as Canada / usa.

My 35 roadster width across the cowl is 11/16 per side narrower. I had to modify a 34-35 roadster Auzzie built windshield ( duval style ) to fit, and that's where I discovered the difference.

Cowl lights for roadsters phaetons use a diff angle on the mounting base , so the cowl lights do not point into the hood.

mike

Paul, the 1933 standard, 1934-35 standard all use the same rear fenders and the fender brace underneath that runs from the sail area ??? too the flat area towards the body. It keeps the fender "sail area" pushing outward.

Mine were missing when I first bought the 35 std coupe in 70 and here is what I did.

Using the stock factory rivet holes in the sail area I made a flat metal bracket that would match the holes in the sail area, 10/32" rings a bell.
Then welded a nut on the back of it.
I bought a piece of 1/4" threaded rod to fit the nut welded on the back and made it match the width towards the inside body fender area. I made another flat piece and welded another nut.

There I attached it too the inside of the fender and installed two 10/32" bolts and nuts.

I ran that for many many years until I was able to purchase a pair, paint and install them. I actually may still have them , 1/4" threaded rods bracketry somewhere in my garage ????? Its not something I have bumped into in last 5 years that I can remember .

Not sure if the 35 roadster rear fenders that came on SHAZZBOTT had them before I scrapped the fenders as unrepairable. Again I may run into them in a month or so when cold goes and I can get back out there.


I and I repo or filling station in WASH has a bracket that goes under the tail light mounting area with correct spacing on holes. It has some beef to it so will not damage fenders paint.
Think its listed as rear fender support covering 1932--1935

mike

Mike thanks for that info! It funny on my outer 34 Standard rear fenders I have 2 peened head smooth painted the body color truss bolts that ties into the taillight bracing.
Rory
1934 Chevrolet Standard DC Sport Roadster for sale
1933 Ford 3 Window Coupe
1934 Ford 4 Door Sedan under construction
1933 Ford 4 Door Phaeton

Yes , Rory that's absolutely correct. Easily drilled out from inside using center of the rivet with 1/8 drill bit. The other side of the bracket is more difficult and its best to use a ROTA BROACH TOOL which is meant for spot welds and does a real nice job. Then use button head allen heads in place of the rivets with stainless nylocks. I put tiny O rings under the heads of the allen heads to not mar the paint on the fender.

That way when your refinishing the fender, you can make the whole underside perfect and also spray the bracket separately for a real clean look. I also used water, oil and gas proof gasket paper on top of the fender brace.

I also used the same rivet removal procedure on the hood sides handles so that way you can polish the surface perfectly.

mike

Mike you need to be careful with any SST hardware as it has a tendency to have a galling effect and very difficult to take it apart if that happens. I like using a clear thin plastic washer if looking to protect any surface! Sounds like a smart way to build it! I don’t know how the judges will approve! Speaking of Judges I loved your story in one of the other threads of the CA Pebbles Beach Judge almost had the big one after the guy opened up the hood of his car!
Rory
1934 Chevrolet Standard DC Sport Roadster for sale
1933 Ford 3 Window Coupe
1934 Ford 4 Door Sedan under construction
1933 Ford 4 Door Phaeton

rory....trick with stainless steel fasteners is too use ANTI-SEIZE on the threads , liberally.

If you don't they will lock together and you most likely have to put a whole lot of twist on it to break it. Been there , done that, not much fun .

Yes thin plastic washers will also work fine and easy to make using gasket punch set.

Exactly what happened at pebble beach CALIF and when, sounds interesting.

mike

Mike I guess that I did not use enough! I have the gray and copper ant seize and not sure which is better.
I like using McMaster Car you can order most any part for any project at hand. Ever buy any parts from them before?
Speaking of anti-seizing I just replaced my driver side rear broken parallel leaf spring in my 33 Ford and replaced all the rubber bushings and hangers end when I put it all back I am trying out disc caliper grease for rubber parts on my rubber bushings. All you need is a tooth pick and it goes on like Vaseline! On my 34 Chevy parallel leaf springs front and rears Chevy never used rubber only grease fittings on all the shackles. All of these members would be proud of me for using an Old School all Chevy Drive train!
Rory
1934 Chevrolet Standard DC Sport Roadster for sale
1933 Ford 3 Window Coupe
1934 Ford 4 Door Sedan under construction
1933 Ford 4 Door Phaeton

----------------------------------------------------------------Never heard of McMaster Car, must be local CONN stores. ?

I use PERMATEX anti seize exclusively , never had a problem except that once when doing a mock up on rad shell brackets, was only the one , guess I wasn't paying attention.

"Copper coat" is a trade name & is a different product than anti seize. I have not used it in a while. Generally its a great thread sealer that never dries out , I believe. Like head bolts going into water jackets the threads seal.

One thing about Copper Coat , it should not be used with aluminum heads, cast iron block, combined with antifreeze , ethel glycol , end result is electrolosis , not good. I know not to used copper cyl head gaskets in that mix.

As long as the caliper grease is compatible with rubber , your safe.

Yup, those parallel leaf springs you grease on the ends, another better chev idea. Whats really trick is when you can find & get them, GREASE FITTING CAPS. Loop over grease fitting and then the attached cap snaps closed and keeps the dirt out.
They also can be used on brake bleeding screws.

Be careful from the judges may deduct points for having a non original modification with the caps.


mike

No it is not local! Mike here is the site! As a Mechanical Engineer we called it the “Bible”. They had a big yellow book back in the days and now the internet!
McMaster-Carr Supply Co., Industrial Supplies. 600 N. County Line Rd. Elmhurst, IL 60126. (630) 834-9600 www.mcmaster.com
You can select most any size part and get full description of the product!
I use small rubber caps plus I use them on all my air guns so crap does not get into them. Oh check out McMaster Car site and you can find all size and material caps for any of your projects!

Mike you know what is funny about Judges at these car shows if they are having a bad day, Family issues or if they are not in a good mood that day anything can happen! For the most part I go to have fun and enjoy the comradery with all the other car owners no matter what make style or year because you get some great ideas!

Rory
1934 Chevrolet Standard DC Sport Roadster for sale
1933 Ford 3 Window Coupe
1934 Ford 4 Door Sedan under construction
1933 Ford 4 Door Phaeton

interesting site, have book marked it for looking into later. We have lots of places locally that supply similar parts.

Think I got enough tools and stuff to cover most of my car needs. I have 44 packages of parts I have purchased in Rochester NY waiting for me to drive down and pick up end of month.

I cannot believe how many parts I need to build my 35 roadster SHAZZBOTT .

MIKE

Mike you are very correct with the electrolysis effect for dissimilar metals is what happened on my 33 Ford cooling system and you could actually get a reading of electricity in the cooling system as it became a battery plus it ate part of my aluminum radiator hose connector in one year. I had to put a sacrificial zinc anode on a wire just inside the radiator under the cap. The funny part is the aluminum stopped being ate up at the same time the zinc anode did not change shape!
Rory
1934 Chevrolet Standard DC Sport Roadster for sale
1933 Ford 3 Window Coupe
1934 Ford 4 Door Sedan under construction
1933 Ford 4 Door Phaeton

Yes it takes many parts and lots of money! It funny on my 34 Ford build I probably have two of everything with slightly different size and variations. Measure 5 times mock it up 3 times and weld once!
I did an estimate quote of just parts only for my 34 Chevy build and looking at 33k to start!
It’s a labor of love for sure!
Rory
1934 Chevrolet Standard DC Sport Roadster for sale
1933 Ford 3 Window Coupe
1934 Ford 4 Door Sedan under construction
1933 Ford 4 Door Phaeton

rory, my coupe has a ZZ4 350 with corvette aluminum heads and intake and water pump.
Installed back in 96 and run since 2000. I used an aluminum compatible anti freeze in it. Its from one of the big suppliers and the plastic container is silver in colour I think it was.

Might want to change your antifreeze in the ford to an aluminum compatible one, when its warm enough to drive it again.

mike

Mike sounds like a great combination! Funny you mentioned anti-freeze I switched over to Toyota pink antifreeze and has been good ever since! Have no cooling or corrosion inside the system since! Plus running a 400 sbc with Fuelie camel hump heads with the big valves of course a 3/4 cam and a 700 Holley carb.
These engines nobody wanted them back in the days even when the cars were factory fresh in the 70’s because of overheating problems due to the thin water-jacket. I run NO mechanical fan with a Walker 4 rows and extra fins stock 33 Ford radiator only with a shroud and a pulling fan. I can run all day long and the temp never goes over 180 degs with no fan running. Sometimes get in traffic and the fan kicks on to maintain 180 degs, Plus always need to run 94 high test at best!
Rory
1934 Chevrolet Standard DC Sport Roadster for sale
1933 Ford 3 Window Coupe
1934 Ford 4 Door Sedan under construction
1933 Ford 4 Door Phaeton

RORY sounds like a great combo. Lots of people bypassed the 400 SBC because of the thin walls and potential heating problems. Great combo of an almost square bore and stroke motor . Think .30 over max gets you a 406 .

I stay away from electric fans with a passion, as they have a tendency to fail and if that's your main source of cooling the engine will run up and get hot. Plus some of my new cars the fans will come at a price of $450 + at a gm dealer , and not fixable. A throw away like bic pen.

I use steel 6 or 7 blade fan 16" that will not bend and has a serious air pull too it thru the radiator. The pitch to the blades is about 1 1/2". Takes about 25 HP out of motor. Will suck a cloth diaper to your 34 ford or 34 chevy at idle and hold it there. Only thing 99% goes wrong is fan belt wearing out, but still same one I put on in 1996.

Walker makes a good radiator and at 4 core has plenty of cooling capacity. It gets tiring on the wallet real fast running 93 octane. Here its $1.20 a liter x 4 liters = gallon. That equals $4.80 a gallon.

Big discussion about fans in 33--36 section last year as stock wasn't doing it and a truck fan with a pitch was found to be effective by MILLIN PHIL in Ohio.


Note to you on 34 chevy.......stock had a couple of complicated pieces of sheet metal that blocked air flow on sides of the radiator, right where the head light bars are and it covers access to them . I water jet cut and brake bent and welded up 25 sets and they are sold out year ago. If you ever stick a SBC in the roadster .

mike

Mike you are correct on the motor specs! Estimate about 485 hp with the headers! A lot of guys put the electric fan in front of the radiator very bad thing to do as it blocks all the cooling effect and should always be pulling the air with the shroud! I am not looking at saving on HP without the fan. Had a fan blade to your specs years ago and when I was in Cape Cod traffic or traffic jam accident my temps would just keep rising where I would have to pull over to cool down! You are correct if the belt brakes or comes off you are in big trouble! Jegs.com sells a Swept-Blade 16" Electric Cooling Fan Kit complete with wire harness and relay for $100.

I was driving back from Burlington VT NSRA Nationals years back filled my 12 gallon tank there and headed back home here to MA. It was funny I was at the end of rt 89 where rt 93 meets and my gas gage barely moved and had thought it was broken! Pulled into Bow NH gas station and topped it off at about 5 gallons. It must had been the downhill from the mountains and one constant cruising speed that got me great mileage! Gas prices go up and down at the present time we are paying around $2.30 per gallon! My 33 Ford does not like regular as last Fall I ran out of gas on rt 24 at 4 pm rush hour and the MAPFIRE emergency truck pulled up within 10 min put 2 gallon in of regular and got off the next exit to top off my tank with high test and when I shut it off to fill the car made all kinds of noise pining knocking like I had serious engine problems. Now I was afraid to take it back out on the highway and then break down again so took all the back roads to my home garage and then the car shut off fine with no issues! I confess had enough excitement that day did not want to drive it for a week after that incident!

Mike thanks for that note on my 34 Chevy radiator area. Its funny my friends wanted me to use a Ford Eco Boost motor to make a statement! I do not like to see a block of aluminum with plastic intake and a computer to run it or even looking at other cars at the cruises! Then I was thinking of a Ford 302 with an AOD transmission and then my other friends had mentioned it could be hard to sell the car if and when at some point I get bored of it! So I am leaning towards a 383 Stroker possible with polished dual quad intake to add some Bling and a turbo 350 with a Ford 9 inch rear-end!
I am old school NO power steering NO AC, NO radio. Just need gages to monitor the running condition of the motor!
Rory
1934 Chevrolet Standard DC Sport Roadster for sale
1933 Ford 3 Window Coupe
1934 Ford 4 Door Sedan under construction
1933 Ford 4 Door Phaeton

rory.........let me get this straight, you want to put a SBFord into your 34 chevy , really ? Well it would start a lot of conversations you may or may not want to get into at a cruise or meet.

As narrow as a SBF is , it has trouble in the length dept and the water pump needs to be chopped shorter. Snow White chassis in calif does this and if your running a SBF in your fords, your going to need their services.

Chevy SBC is about 29 1/2" long to fit your chevy firewall to radiator and even with a corvette short water pump its tight. You can easily use a DERALE steel or aluminum mechanical belt driven fan. Its called a DERALE PERFORMANCE "rigid race steel blade fan ". In various lengths. Less than $50 thru direct or jegs.

Without a shroud, running 700 rpm idle, place a cloth diaper 2 x 2 ft sq in front of the radiator grill and watch what happens. The cloth is sucked too the grill and held there, it takes some serious vacuum pull from the fan to do that.

Try that with an electric fan, I'd be interested to hear the results.

Okay you want some bling on your motor........let me say this about that. The 35 roadster I am building is having none of that. Been there done that, want to drive the cars not spend all my time cleaning their engine compartment. New phaeton is like that all polished and chromed, because that's how they did it in the 1970-80's

Am powder coating most all the aluminum flat black . The weber IDF intake is going from polished to gloss black as are the webers with small parts plated. The four SS air cleaners have 6" tall K&N red filters. The air cleaner parts are all flat black with custom milled tops. This will match the one piece billet balled firewall.

You have jim Ingalese in your area who does the webers, much more interesting than 2 fours.........because with the webers you have the same thing except its 8 individual throttles.

mike

Mike it was just a thought and still in the planning stage! You are correct to always run the shortest water pump so the motor can be as far forward as possible! Thanks for that shop out in CA! One of my friends out there had that shop build a car for them! That shop likes using corvette independent rear ends plus they build their cars to the old school styling the way they should be built! You are correct on the SBC length as the wood firewall might need to add or replace with steel plus the floor with also mounting the swing brake pedal to the firewall mounted dual master cylinder with no booster with gravity being my friend!

I would always use a shroud because it adds extra suction draw effect with any fan type. I tried it when I installed it years ago and I used 2 paper towels attached and it stuck to the radiator core like glue and that was after I had assembled the complete setup with the 6 blade electric fan plus I had made a custom SST shroud with the lowest profile of about 1 / 2 inch for added suction! Will have to try the 2 x 2 ft cloth diaper method!

Sounds like a great plan on your 35 Chevy Roadster build and will be low mantaince on the detailing plus lots of driving with NO trailer!

Thanks I will check out Ingalese weber setup!

Speaking of low mantaince at first I was leaning on all red wire wheels like what is on the 34 Roadster now and getting the new ones from Coker and just going with black wall tires. Then I was thinking on cleaning them when on long road trips! Then I kind of liked the Coker Rocker Strike vintage wheels from the 1960s and '70s look. Also they come in 17 inch diameter on eBay that I would like to use on the rear! Easy to clean and care for!
Mike what’s your thought on these style wheels for my car?
Rory
1934 Chevrolet Standard DC Sport Roadster for sale
1933 Ford 3 Window Coupe
1934 Ford 4 Door Sedan under construction
1933 Ford 4 Door Phaeton