VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND NEWER 1955-1957 Pulling 55 Convertible Body

I'm in the process of pulling a 55 Belair Convertible off it's frame for a restoration. While I've done many Corvettes this car seems to offer some different problems, such as size and weight. I currently have the car completly striped of all parts and started to weld up some spreader bars to help hold the door openings. Has anyone out there made a cradle for the bod y and how was the body lifted by hand (requiring many friends and favors) or by a lifting devise? Are there any books that outline convertible body removals? Also this car is a solid rust free no hit car which should help. Thanks for the help, Terry

Terry,
I haven't lifted a convertible body off the frame before but remember, I'm just around the corner from you and would be happy to assist you when you're ready. I've also got a lot of gearhead friends, so let me know if you can use my (our)help and I'll try to give you whatever assistance you need.

-Bob

Thanks Bob! I'll let you know how things are comming until then I'll need to start building a body dolly. Terry

Vanst,
You will need to brace the door openings. Use the door hinge sockets and bolt holes on the cowl side and the striker plate holes on the back of the door post. Then you can bolt lifting plates with hole to the cowl where the hood hinges bolt through and others in the trunk body bolt holes. Lifting straps, chains can be used with A-frame, chain falls or other lifing devices. You can use and engine lift if you only raise one end at a time. Support with cross piece on pipe jacks, saw horses while you raise the other end. Make sure you have the body high enough to clear the bump up at the back of the frame. It will take 6 - 8 people to lift the body. You can also use square tubing and off sets to fit under the body. Use the body bolt holes to secure the body to the plates welded to the tubing. A body rotisserie is a real asset. We have made two with square tubing of various sizes and some salvaged wheels. Cost was about $ 200 for materials. You will never do a body off restoration without it.

If you haven't already done it You may consider useing a telescoping door brace made from two pieces of square tubing who's indivigual lengths are 6"or8" less than the opening measures Telescope it out fasten to each side (Hinge and lock pillars) then either bore a hole thru both pieces anywhere in the overlap and put in a close fitting bolt that will the keep the correct length or weld a bead to hold the correct length. That is much more simple than trying to measure to the Knat's hair tolerance needed. You also may want to fasten two 4"X4" posts crossways under the frame where the front body and the rear body mounts attach the body to the frame after jacking the body a few inches above the frame and have the 4"X4" extend out a foot on each side and use this for 4 point lifting points, you can fasten 2X4s or 2x6s length ways connecting the 4"x4" to keep the body stable while it it being lifted off the frame. This was the method a friend of mine did with his 57 Ford retractable hardtop a couple of years ago, because he could not use a 220Volt welder in his makeshift shop to build a proper Rotesseriory, however you spellit! It may also be a good idea to do this where you want the body work to be done and roll the chassis where ever you need it.