Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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#37957 09/13/06 10:14 AM
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Hi, last night when I got home from work I noticed some oil leaking from where my distributor inserts in the block. This is a 235 ci motor. Is there a felt gasket or something that stops oil from leaking out of the hole in the block. Thanks Oscar The Grouch :confused:


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#37958 09/13/06 08:26 PM
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Try this web site for the master parts manual. Possibly the answer would lie in the parts schematic for the distributor. Personally I wonder if the distributor is seated properly.

#37959 09/14/06 09:45 AM
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glyn, if the distributor is not seated properly
will it still run good? I drive this truck everyday and it seems to runs fine, just leaks oil and this is the only place it leaks. I'm scared to pull it out because I might not get it back in. I will try the master manual and thanks for the input...Oscar The Grouch :confused:


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#37960 09/14/06 11:31 AM
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I have never had the problem so can only guess at the source. My understanding is that little to no oil is intended to be at the bottom of the distributor. If there is wear on the oil pump shaft so excess oil is forced up toward the distributor it could produce a leak. Excess pressure in the oil pan could be a cause but if that is the case then oil should leak from other places as well. Any other guesses?


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#37961 09/14/06 01:29 PM
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glyn, where do I go to find the master parts manual on this web site? I looked but could not find it. Thanks...Oscar The Grouch


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#37962 09/14/06 02:36 PM
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Oscar I have a Chevrolet Master Parts and Accessories Catalog for 1929 thru 1954
and the illustration of the ignition distributor shows no seal on the distributor, nor is there one listed in the parts breakdown in Group 2.360 to 2.421 which includes all parts of the distributor. also I have several complete distributors both the short cap and the tall cap varieties and neither have a shaft seal. I will research this further, since you aroused my curiosity

The Illustration:
[Linked Image from chevy.tocmp.com] I am sorry if it is too large for this format, but if there are complaints I will delete it later. MrMack...


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#37963 09/14/06 04:02 PM
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Thanks MrMack, I might mention that my 235 is I think a 1961. On the block it say G191.Itis leaking right under the arm 2.418. Would this have anything to do with the O rings on the shaft? Are they O rings in the illustration? Thanks...Oscar :confused:


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#37964 09/14/06 07:46 PM
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Well, the distributors should be close to the same and I saw the grooves but don't remember any "O"rings

(my book and this forum only goes to 1954)


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#37965 09/16/06 07:08 AM
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Oscar,
see if your draft tube is plugged up. I think Chipper was on track with positive pressure building up in the crankcase. You could put your hand over the oil filler with engine running and feel for pressure.

I have seen a little round gasket in Fel Pro kits for the distributor base which probably was not OEM supplied. IT would get ground up after numerous timing adjustments.
Bob

#37966 09/16/06 09:22 AM
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There is no O ring or gasket at that point.The groves in thee distributor and "flat side" in the housing are designed to return any oil if it should get up to that point.This is one area that the 216-235 engines do not leak.I would suspect that the side or valve cover gasket is leaking, oil running down to the ledge that the distributor is mounted on, and passing under the distributor.Either that or the groved portion of the housing is full of sludge and preventng the oil from draining back to the sump.


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#37967 09/16/06 09:25 AM
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Quote
Originally posted by RUST TO SHINE:
glyn, where do I go to find the master parts manual on this web site? I looked but could not find it. Thanks...Oscar The Grouch
As regards the parts manual, I am sorry I forgot to post the web site, but I note that others have moved on with that. I am in agreement with the pressure in the crankcase diagnosis, check the entire vent system including the oil fill cap which proably is the source of venting on the rocker arm cover. talk talk talk

#37968 09/18/06 10:46 AM
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Chevgene, when I bought this truck the oil was oxidized. When I went to change the oil it was ugly yellow green. I was told to run it for a bit and change the oil. I did this for about ten times until the oil was clean on the stick. I have noticed that when I pull the oil stick out there is a little bit of sludge toward the top of the oil stick. I also notice sludge and water on my oil cap. Would this have anything to do with this leak? Thanks...Oscar :confused: curse


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#37969 09/18/06 11:40 AM
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Could be coolant leaking into the oil.Water will form the sludge and its too warm for winter condensation.
Looks as if its time for major surgery mad
The most comon areas would be a head gasket leak or a cracked head.


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#37970 09/18/06 12:03 PM
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Would there be water in the oil?...Oscar


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#37971 09/18/06 12:38 PM
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Oscar,
You have a serious problem. The sludge is most likely from engine coolant getting into the oil. It will quickly form sludge (actually an emulsion of water and oil) similar to whipped cream (milk fat and air). It will not get better without repairing the leak. It can quickly lead to bearing failure.


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#37972 09/18/06 01:53 PM
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I just had a major tune-up and had my valves adjusted. They put it on the machine and told me the motor is fine except for #2 cylinder only has
100 lbs instead of 120 lbs. Anyway I am rebuilding another 235 in my living room as I type. I worked so hard on this truck and wanted to have a little fun before winter hits here in Calif. If you want to call it winter. Thanks And I will figure this out...Oscar


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#37973 09/18/06 02:19 PM
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A difference of 100 to 120 PSI is not desirable, however it is not disastrous. If the valves were adjusted it needs to be run awhile and then rechecked. The adjustment may take care of the PSI difference. If not, then a wet and dry should be conducted.

Agrin


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1925 Superior K Roadster
1928 Convertible, Sport, Cabriolet
1933 Eagle, Coupe
1941 Master Deluxe 5-Passenger Coupe
1950 Styleline Deluxe 4-Door Sedan
1950 Styleline Deluxe Convertible
2002 Pontiac, Montana, Passenger Van
2014 Impala, 4-Door Sedan, White Diamond, LTZ
2017 Silverado, Double Cab, Z71, 4X4, White, Standard Bed, LTZ

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#37974 09/18/06 03:04 PM
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Ray, I don't know what a wet and dry is. Could you pleae explain?...Oscar


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#37975 09/18/06 05:46 PM
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The results you posted is the "dry" reading. Now, place a bit of oil in each cylinder and recheck that cylinder. Compare it to the first reading. If the readings are very close it would indicate both rings and valves are sealing. If you get an increased reading on the second "wet" test you may have bad ring(s).

If you have a MOTORS MANUAL it will be explained in the service section.

Agrin


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1925 Superior K Roadster
1928 Convertible, Sport, Cabriolet
1933 Eagle, Coupe
1941 Master Deluxe 5-Passenger Coupe
1950 Styleline Deluxe 4-Door Sedan
1950 Styleline Deluxe Convertible
2002 Pontiac, Montana, Passenger Van
2014 Impala, 4-Door Sedan, White Diamond, LTZ
2017 Silverado, Double Cab, Z71, 4X4, White, Standard Bed, LTZ

If you need a shoulder to cry on, pull off to the side of the road.
Death is the number 1 killer in the world.


#37976 09/18/06 06:04 PM
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If you are planning on replacing the engine just keep driving it and if the oil gets too milky looking change it.I am sure that you are not taking any long trips with it.


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#37977 09/19/06 09:56 AM
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Chevgene, you are right about no long trips. I just want to have some fun this summer and fix all the little things that are left to be fixed like my heater. I will drop a rebuilt in this winter and hope to go on some tours with my chapter next summer. Thanks and have a good day.
laugh :cool2:


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#37978 10/04/06 09:28 PM
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You might want to check the fuel pump to see if oil is coming out where the pin goes through it for the fuel puup shaft. It could be seeping oil there then running down the block.

#37979 10/05/06 08:20 AM
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Skips message jogged my memory, I had oil showing up on the flange along the valve push rod side cover running back along the engine. Tightened everything in site and some things twice. Did not help a bit. Finally noticed that the rear hold down bolt on the fuel pump was not tight and that oil was getting out at that point. Tightened it up and end of story.

#37980 10/09/06 01:34 PM
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Update on my oil leak from distributor. I pulled the oil breather tube and it was cloged with sludge. I cleaned it and pulled off my valve cover and the top of the cover was covered with sludge. When I got this truck it had been sitting for 10+ years. I am going to pull the oil pan this weekend and clean it. Someone said something about a screen on my oil pump. Where is it located? When I got this truck the oil was oxidized. After many oil changes the oil got back to its original color. I think my pan is full of sludge stuck on the walls and that is why I am getting bits of sludge. After taking a ride yesterday there was no oil leak from arround the distributor. Could all this sludge build up in my pan while it was oxidized?
The pressure is fine and it does not heat up. Thanks for all the help on this one...Oscar :confused: chevy


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#37981 10/09/06 02:01 PM
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You will find the oil screen as soon as you remove the pan/sump. Sounds like the engine needs a real good cleaning to get rid of all the sludge.

Agrin


RAY


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http://www.vccacolumbiariverregion.org/



1925 Superior K Roadster
1928 Convertible, Sport, Cabriolet
1933 Eagle, Coupe
1941 Master Deluxe 5-Passenger Coupe
1950 Styleline Deluxe 4-Door Sedan
1950 Styleline Deluxe Convertible
2002 Pontiac, Montana, Passenger Van
2014 Impala, 4-Door Sedan, White Diamond, LTZ
2017 Silverado, Double Cab, Z71, 4X4, White, Standard Bed, LTZ

If you need a shoulder to cry on, pull off to the side of the road.
Death is the number 1 killer in the world.


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