VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - GENERAL Mechanical - Engine, Trans, etc Sick engine

So here we are almost two years later and the engine still doesn't sound right. Here's a recap:
1-Tried to isolate the noise by shorting out plugs. No noticeable difference.
2-The sharp metallic noise is still there upon startup. I suspect Gene may be right about something rattling on top of a piston.
3-the other day, I took a long (20 miles) "fast" (55 mph) ride and twice while slowing down on the overrun a rapping sound a bit like a hammer drill.
4.the few times I drove it since (abysmal weather) it seems to get worse.

So I plan to open it up.I can check for loose parts in a cylinder by removing the head. I suppose I could check bottom end clearances with plastigage (if it still exists). What about pistons? I guess they'd have to removed and miked?

What I'm looking for is a sequence of elimination starting with the easier test proceeding to a total dismantle if need be. And what should I have on hand just in case?

Would it help if I went for a ride with a passenger equipped with a recording device?

Did you try removing the thermostat to see what happens?

Pat,
Does the loss of coolant start immediately after shutting down the engine or is there a delay of a minute or so? If immediate I highly suspect air getting into the coolant. It does not take much time for the reduction in internal cooling system pressure and heat to expand any air bubbles which pushes out coolant. The likely culprit is the water pump seal(s).

If it is after boil it takes some time for the water to go from liquid to gas (steam). Also if that is the case you should actually hear a bumping or thumping sound coming from the engine.

Of course you know that diagnosis from 3000 miles away is not a 100% science.

I am not sure if it has been mentioned before but when heated water will expand and to the extent of approximately half the top radiator tank. With this in mind I rarely fill beyond that level on any system without a recovery tank, saves a big mess and worry.
Tony

The water pump can be removed wiithout removing the radiator. First remove the fan. When doing so put a piece of cardboard against the radiator core to save your knuckles and the core. It is possible that the baffle in the block behind the water pump has come loose (in the block) and is spinning with the pump impeller.
That would also upset the cooling system.

The push rods ends are not worn. That was a running change made over the yeas. The shape of the seat in the lifter was also changed if I remember correctly.
The close end of the coil goes down.
Remove the helper springs and the hardware....the stronger new springs will be all you need.
A special air fitting is the spark plug hole and compressed air is one way to hold the valves in place. There is a KD tool sold, kind of a lever, to compress the spring and top retiner cap.