VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1929-1932 New top needed - but how?

Thanks Blue 50 convert, looking forward to it.

I will be doing my roof soon and I have a few questions. I have purchased the proper aluminum molding strips and have these questions.

1. Front strip gets applied with the opening of the fold facing forward?

2. Chipper mentioned the ends of the forward molding get filed to meet the "moldings". Need more specifics. Did he mean to go the molded drip edge of the car or the side aluminum roof moldings? Isn't the front molding supposed to go all the way from drip edge to drip edge? (rounded over the front roof edge)

3. Can anyone supply a close up picture of the front of an original car to help us doing our roofs see what it should really look like.

4. How are the ends filed?


I am thinking of making a jig to do the bending but a better one than just a plywood one. I want to machine a plate with a slot matching the curve needed for the rear of the roof. There will be a backing plate in the shape of the curve to support the molding and a top plate to hold the molding in place. I will machine a roller that will have a groove to capture the bottom of the open edge and another groove to hold the top piece from closing. The roller will be mounted on a bearing that will be in the groove cut in the lower plate. A lever will be attached to a pivot point centered to the general radius of the curve but also have a small slot for the bolt that goes through it, the grooved roller, the guide bearing, a washer, and the nut that holds the whole assembly in the bottom plate. The slot is for any variance the curve might have to the pivot point as the lever is pulled through the motion of the radius. There will be a machined block that fits the molding shape that will hold the end so it isn't damaged while the lever is moved and the molding bent. I have used a rail bender for large scale model rail road and believe I can make something work that uses the same principals and I could offer to others to use when doing their roofs. Does this sound like a viable project?

It sounds like a good project to do and I would like to see photos that shows to process. If you can.

The main thing here is if you think it is a viable project. If you do then go for it.

Sounds like you have it well thought out so the process should work just fine.

If I wrote that I was in error. The front of the long side sections that wrap around the back need to be hand filed with a round file to match the profile of the front moulding so they fit nearly seamlessly.

Thanks Chipper, I understand.

Sorry, I asked that question a little wrong. I meant was it viable to think others would would want to use the jig if I offered it to the VCCA members?

That is a different question....but the answer is yes.

I vote with the Dog.

How did this turn out? Ive ordered the filling station kit and (2) 8 ft rails. No instructions. Hard to find pics in google. Any help is appreciated.

I have done 6+ roofs now with the aluminum moldings. I have posted pictures of at least four of them I’ve done in the members area. Bearsfan, Whitmoyer, Arizona Armando’s, and my own, Chistech. The technique used is basically as Chipper described, I just tweaked the whole process to make it easier and increase consistency in the finished product. I use a stretching frame, alignment or guide pins, #4 SS screws to fasten it down, and a specially ground counter sink to clear the molding top edge. Swaging the molding over also takes a technique so not to make the molding wavy. It will always have a little wave because the roof is naturally somewhat wavy. To do the job correctly it takes me about a total of 10 man hours including: masking of whole metal roof right at the edge of where the aluminum moldings will be, prepping of the roofing material on the frame, scuff padding and bending the moldings, installing the guide pins, cutting the moldings to fit, drilling/countersinking for the screws, test fitting of moldings including installing all screws, installing roof denim, padding, applying sealer, putting down roof fabric on the frame, installing temporary tacking guides to locate all tacking areas, tacking roof down, installing front molding, screwing molding in the bending ends down, swaging front molding over, installing pre bent side moldings with screws, hand filing ends to fit correctly with the front molding when the side is swaged over, trim off remaining fabric even with molding edges, swage all molding over, clean molding with Preps-All, mask all of new roofing fabric, spray paint the molding first with etch primer, scuff with a red pad, Preps-All again, paint with SEM trim black, remove all masking, and finally, detail roof to clean away any adhesive or tape remnants left behind. I probably left out a step or two but to do a credible job, expect a fair amount of work.


NOTE: when doing a 4dr sedan, the available 8’ strips are not long enough to do the side and have a single joint at the rear middle of the roof. A 6”+ or - piece needs to be installed. In other words, 3 strips are needed for most cars regardless. For perfect cuts, purchase an Xacto miter box and razor saw. Nothing cuts the moldings cleaner and better than that.

What is the purpose of the Hidem and Wireon? The sales person at TFS said they are used under the aluminum molding to give a smooth edge. I don't think so.

I posted in parts wanted that I need the roof fabric (for my 29 coupe) Lebaron Bonney said type t-63 black short cobra grain vinyl is the closest for my car, but they have it back ordered and don't know when to expect it. TFS does not have it. Does anyone know where I can get roof fabric for the 29?

Check with the Model A part sellers. They should have the short Cobra fabric. You will need to buy by the yard not a kit as the sizes to fit a Model A maybe different than a Chevrolet.

The sales person at the Filling Station was incorrect. The aluminum moulding is mounted directly on the top material insert and the wood frame to hide the edge of the top insert to give a finished appearance.

Thanks Chipper, MAC'S does list the short cobra. I will call to see if it is in stock. Do you think this would be close to the original for my 29?