VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND NEWER 1949-1954 NO START

With the points blocked open you should have no continuity between the movable point arm and the breaker plate. If you do have continuity then you are grounded.

Yes,

Existing condenser is still in dist. I will replace the condenser Wednesday AM.

Question or comment was made earlier, as to what dist. is in the car now.

Engine is a 1955 235".

Dist. is marked as a 1112403, which is a 1955 thru 1957 235" dist.

OK, will try that in a few minutes. Thanks.

Sure......and let us know how you make out.

Turn the switch on and take a screwdriver and wiggle it across and into the points, you should get some sparks.

Hint on the starting. It ain't the gasoline. It may be, however, a lack of it. I think you said that you had put some down the carburetor.

More than likely it is the timing or opening in the points.

Charlie

Here is what I have.

With key on and points blocked OPEN, and the test light clip attached to the stationary side of the points, the light comes ON, when I touch the test probe to the moving arm side of the points.

With the key on and the points are CLOSED, and the test light is attached as shown above, there is NO test light.

With the key on and the points are separated with a pen, there is a spark, at the points.

Dist shaft turns. Engine also shows oil pressure when cranking.

Connection at point arm looks correct.

With key on, and the center coil wire is pulled from dist cap, there is NO spark, when touching coil wire terminal to block, metal, etc.

Bob,
If you open and close the points do you get ~1/2" spark from the coil wire to the block. If so do you get a stronger spark from the coil wire when the open point arms are shorted with a screwdriver? If the points are not open and closed then the coil and capacitor will not produce a spark.

Let me understand.

******Getting a "stronger spark" from the coil wire, when the open point arms are shorted with a screwdriver.******

Are you saying to ground the open points arm to the breaker plate surface, with a screwdriver, going from the open points arm to the breaker plate surface ?

The points are just a on-off switch. If you get more intense spark when the points are shorted versus when they are opened and closed then the point contacts are not making good contact and need to be cleaned or replaced. If you get more intense spark when the positive arm is shorted to the base plate than when shorted between the arms or open and closed then the grounded arm is not completely grounded. If you don't get approx. 1/2" spark jump then you will not have a hot enough spark at the plugs. It also should make a "snap" noise.

No "snap noise."

Yes, there is a more intense spark when the points are shorted, versus the opening and closing only.

Points are brand new Echlin points, have NOT run a single minute.

Dist is a #1112403 for a '55 to '57 6 cylinder.

Point gap for new points on the '55 is .019 new. They are set to that spec.

Adjustable arm is correctly attached to its insulator terminal, along with the condenser lead.

Another new set of points needed?

Bob,
Just because a part is new, never installed does not mean it is in good shape and ready to use. It is relatively common for new points to have an insulating coating on the contacts. Clean with solvent and abrasive cloth or fine crocus cloth. Crisp dollar bill has been used more than once. When you get the spark intensity the same when points are closed and shorted the contacts are clean. Then you can move to the other components. If the case of the condenser is not well grounded you will get a weak spark.

Once you get a spark that "snaps" the engine should run.

You might try hot wiring from the battery to the coil and jumping the starter with a screwdriver. That eliminates the switch and wiring.

Thanks, Chipper. Have not worked on her today, too much other stuff going on with the move.

Trailer is coming Wednesday evening, so it may have to be winched onto the trailer.

Steve,

+ line from ignition switch to coil had a butt connector. Did not look good.

Rather than solder 64 year old wire, I ran a new 16 gauge wire from ignition switch to + side of coil.

That's good but my thoughts were to eliminate everything except the essentials in case a short somewhere was causing a drain and lowering the voltage to the coil/distributor thus the poor spark. When it gets to its new home and you have the tools and time etc. to diagnose properly let us know what you find.

When these '51's were new, the coil was inverted, the center coil wire came out of the bottom of the coil.

It was done in that manner, based on the oil in the coil.

Should a new coil still be inverted, on installation?

The engines with the coil pointing down had two problems.
First it was common for the wire to fall out of the coil...The also the transformer oil in the coil tended to seep out a little. The changed direction in 1959 and the wire then came out of the top of the coil

Thanks. Upright she will be.

The no start continues, but the transporter loaded her today, with a winch, bound for NC.

Perhaps my problem solving skills will be better in the NC air.