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I agree with Gene to keep the original engine in the car. If you find a good used engine chances are its going to cost some good money. Chances are the used engine is going to have quirks and issues and in the end you'd be better off spending money on what you have and in the end you will know exactly what you have.
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Backyard Mechanic
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Thanks - just asking - looking at all the options before dipping into the savings account and doing what needs to be done. Why oh why does an old chevy get my attention and into my pocketbook. Blessings
Member # 047137 - 1947 Chevrolet 4 door sport sedan
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I would stay with a 216, but that is just my preference, I prefer original as much as possible. That being said, I wouldn't be to afraid of an engine I could hear run and inspect for myself. If your engine truly has only 36,000 miles, I think I would have the valves ground, and do a ring job, and fit the bearings. You can tell how much wear the cylinders have by the ring ridge and inspect the pistons, wrist pins, bearings etc. Then decide whether it is a candidate for a simple overhaul or needs a complete rebuild including boring it and regrinding the crankshaft.
Ed
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Well - now that that is settled I need to find a "best" rebuilder somewhere not too far from Danbury, Wi. - Minneapolis, Mn. - or Duluth, Mn. Thanks!
Member # 047137 - 1947 Chevrolet 4 door sport sedan
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I will mail you the address of a person that lives in the area later today. He will be able to help.
Gene Schneider
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Just one more word. I would avaiod the word "rebuild" as it indicates removing the engine, reboring the cylinders, turning the crankshaft, replacing pistons and rods, camshaft, etc. With only 36,000 miles none of that should be necessary, especially on a vehicle that you will be driving 1000 miles a year or so. Would be nice if you could find an old timer that could do a plain old fashioned overhaul job as was done years ago and at a more resonable price.
Gene Schneider
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Gene, I think I hear an echo. Charlie
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When I was working at a garage in the late 50's, the price for the overhaul of a 216 cu.in. engine was $85.00
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Gene gave this same recommendation on page one of this thread, third post. Your echos are getting mixed.
1951 Chevy Styleline Deluxe 2 door sedan / purchased from second owner 6-19-2000.
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The overhaul of a 216 was expected by 40,000 to 75,000 miles. With a good mechanic doing the job the engine would come out as good and in some cases better than new. Most engines in other makes at that time did require rebuilding....or a rebuilt engine was installed due to the cylinders being badly worn and/or the crankshaft out of round.
Gene Schneider
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Bob, Not quite the same as mine for simplicity of recommendation. His recommendation, over time, went far beyond what mine has been all along. His have been all over the place, in effect, covering all bases. Now having seen the wisdom of my recommendation, he has gone back to a more simple recommendation echoing/mirroring mine. Hence my hearing echoes of what I recommended all along and without (my) wavering from my simple method of minor overhaul. Rings and valve grinding. With only 36K the engine should merely need no more extensive repair than the valves ground (which one can do themselves with a "stick" and some compound), and pistons eased out for a set of rings. Short of deliberate engine abuse that is all it could possibly need at 36K. Even an Aussie or a Canadian couldn't have abused it that much even if they were patrolling the Outback or Northern Territories , respectively. Simply a valve and ring job would surely do. That is a minor overhaul as opposed to a major overhaul or rebuild. Expense between the minor to the major and rebuild being a major factor in my recommendation, as well. See the difference? Charlie BTW: This may be an upward battle by me to convince you or anyones else of the echo I'm hearing in the instant matter but so be it. After all, "Entrenched belief is never altered by the facts." (From Dick Francis' novel "Hot Money." BTW2: I do not question Gene's expertise on this issue, merely his slant toward covering his butt for all contingencies. I'm taking a calculated chance by sticking to my simple and only recommendation. After all, I don't have enough clout in Chatter to be worried that I may get something wrong. He does. Hence his wavering recommendation here and the echo I heard.
Last edited by 41specialdeluxe; 11/30/14 12:19 PM.
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After reading all the post I am amazed that so many different conclusions have been reached. The first step of taking a compression test has been done. Until the second step of determining the cause of the oil burning and low compression has been reached its my opinion that its a guessing game on what the cause is. Step two should be to remove the head and inspect the valves etc. along with cylinder wear.
Steve D
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My original was to overhaul the engine as it was done years ago. This would INCLUDE fttting new pins and adjusting the bearings. I still stand by this if you want the engine to sound as new. So often I have gone to meets, etc. and heard guys tell they rebuilt the engine. When you hear it idle the pins are clucking so bad you can't believe it. I always got compliments on my cars because you couldn't hear the engine running. For some reason many thing a chevrolet engine has to be noisey. If everything is up to snuff they are very quiet. As far as removing the head and inspecting I am all for that but due to the smoking it still doesn't show you the pluged-up oil rings which was always a problem on low mileage short trip driven Chevrolet engines, especially with the oil of yesterday.
Last edited by Chev Nut; 11/30/14 01:14 PM.
Gene Schneider
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I agree that most likely the rings are worn or carboned up/stuck and need to be checked. Step three if no excessive cylinder top ridge then pull the pistons and check the rings. Start with the one with lowest compression. Whatever decision is made will depend on the inspection and that can only be done with the engine apart. I also think that its best to rebuild completely. Do it right and do it once. That way you can look forward to pleasurable driving ahead rather than an overhaul on the horizon. If you do find excessive top ridge indicating cylinder wear then just plan on an overhaul.
Steve D
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I'll just bet those ongoing "echos" you hear are a real bugger ! This entire thread seems a toss, back and forth, saying how little can be done to hopefully "fix" or do it all and be certain all is well. After MY 35 years with Chevrolet, I left Chevy knowing a "good job" was a job done well, in a thorough fashion. That being said, to be the best job possible, the job needed to be done (1) without shortcuts and (2) with no stone unturned. Not knowing how much anyone desires to dive under the hood ...... again and again, just knowing I do not ... I would opt to do it once and do it right the first time.
1951 Chevy Styleline Deluxe 2 door sedan / purchased from second owner 6-19-2000.
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I kept having a clack sound at idle, and thought, Oh boy, getting close to a rebuild...Was only a bent tappet rod...Runs so smooth now...I think it has been rebuilt three times by P.O. owners...Running a light blue block, but #'s still match with the title...
1947 Fleetmaster Sport Coupe VCCA # 47475
If it's not wearing a Bowtie...It's not properly dressed...!
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It looks like rangerart71 has received an answer to his original question. Thanks to those who participated with constructive responses.
The follow-on discussion, however, has begun to wander severely off-track.
If rangerart71 needs more help, he can begin a new thread.
Based upon these conditions, this thread is NOW LOCKED.
Bill Barker Previous VCCA CHAT Administrator (VCCA Member: 9802)
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