Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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Shade Tree Mechanic
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WOW

What a great reply and fully understandable.

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Pat S Offline OP
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Originally Posted by Chev Nut
I still think the resistor on the back of the light switch is the problem.....or thee way the swtich/resistor is wired.

So do I.But if it is the resistor, shouldn't the ammeter indicate a charge when the lights are on if that "bypasses" the resistor?


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After rereading my ramblings I see I made an error.
The resistance is in play only when the light switch in in the full off position. The 1/2 notch out or in the parking or full head lights on position the resistance is not in play so with proper wiring the generator will not charge with the switch fully off.....and a proper switch with that feature must be installed.
The 1934-1937 Masters had this feature.


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To put it a little simpler, when the headlights are on the resistance unit is shorted out which increases the generator output (the generator is full fielded at that point). With the lights off, the resistance is in the circuit which decreases the generator output but the generator is still charging.

After you had the generator tested this last time and reinstalled it on the car, did you re-polarize the generator?

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I don't believe in simple answers, just questionsthanku haha


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You are welcome! driving

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Originally Posted by Junkyard Dog
To put it a little simpler, when the headlights are on the resistance unit is shorted out which increases the generator output (the generator is full fielded at that point). With the lights off, the resistance is in the circuit which decreases the generator output but the generator is still charging.

After you had the generator tested this last time and reinstalled it on the car, did you re-polarize the generator?

No. He said it was pre-polarized for negative ground.

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Last edited by Pat S; 08/11/14 06:30 AM.

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Doesn't matter.......polaraize your generator.

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Polarized it, didn't make a difference. Then I took the bull by the horns and introduced myself under the dash and attached a jumper to the resistor.

Guess what? I wonder if Mr.Bugay has another one.

[Linked Image from i1176.photobucket.com]

Last edited by Pat S; 08/11/14 11:17 AM.

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Is my supposition that it was the resister correct? If so congrats Gene!


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Posted on July 25th:
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Check the resistance unit on the back of your light switch. It might be defective.


Posted on July 31st:
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You can test the resistance unit on the back of the light switch with an ohm meter to see if the resistance unit is good or bad.


Looks like you should have checked the reistance unit back when it was first suggested.

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Originally Posted by Junkyard Dog
Posted on July 25th:
Quote
Check the resistance unit on the back of your light switch. It might be defective.


Posted on July 31st:
Quote
You can test the resistance unit on the back of the light switch with an ohm meter to see if the resistance unit is good or bad.


Looks like you should have checked the reistance unit back when it was first suggested.

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Yup. And on the fourth posting on page 9, June 25, my neighbour had checked it and declared it OK.


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Yep, I saw that....but unfortunately he apparently was incorrect. And, since your generator was working that is why it was suggested by several fellows to recheck the resister on the back of the light switch.

With old cars, sometimes it is better if you can check things out yourself so that you will know what is going on. And, there are a lot of dudes on this site that can help you when you don't know for sure how to check specific things.

Glad that you finally got your charging system back on line.

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Pat S Offline OP
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Originally Posted by Junkyard Dog
Glad that you finally got your charging system back on line.

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It'll be back on line when I find another resistor. I just removed the burnt one (not an easy job) and it had broken right along an edge. Looked OK from the front.

Looking at it positively, I now have a spare generator and a few cutouts/diodes should something happen again.


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You can probably find a modern replacement resistor locally.

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Looks like we got it. Received the two resistors.

[Linked Image from i1176.photobucket.com]

With much pain and contortion, managed to install one.

[Linked Image from i1176.photobucket.com]

The result : 9 amps. Should I tweak the 3rd brush a bit or leave well enough alone?

[Linked Image from i1176.photobucket.com]

All the advice and help and guidance is much appreciated!!!!


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Is the 9 amps with the headlights on or off?

If you are charging 9 amps with the headlights off you are doing fine.....no adjustment to the third brush is needed.

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Awesome . . .
...always check and then double check, never second guess

Love Bruce (Mr. Bugay), got plenty of parts from him, never an issue, and always try to stop by when I am up his way. Lots of cool parts to check out, but have to leave my money at home or it would be gone!!


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Then 9 amps charge is great. Leave it alone.

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The Mangy Old Mutt

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Hi there, I posted this else ware but think its was the wrong area...


Hi,
I have just had a Peterson generator conversion done and a new standard cut out switch.

My old cutout has been sent to The Filling Station for diode conversion, and when it is returned I will change the switch over.

It is relevant to this discussion.

My Question:
Regarding the resistor on the back of the light switch, can this now be removed completely now that the charging regulating has been changed and a diode added to make the setup completely solid state???

Peter




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Grease Monkey
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Hi Pat S. - I just read through this long 6 year old thread as I am having similar charging issues with my 34 Standard. I don't have the resistor that caused your problem but I did get some good testing ideas from the thread that may help, thanks.


Don Rundgren
McKinney, Texas
1934 DC Standard 3-Window Coupe
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