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Is the 6.5 amps with the car running at fast idle? Are you sure that you have the diode connected to the generator in the correct direction of current flow? Sounds like you need to get someone that knows generating systems on site to help you with your problem.
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Where does the wire labeled 1 A connect on the other end? How about the wire labeled 1? From what I can see in the photo 1 A should be the field terminal and requires 6 volts or regulated 6 volts for the generator to generate. Then wire 1 would have 6+ volts if the diode is properly oriented. Or am I missing something?
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Is the 6.5 amps with the car running at fast idle? Are you sure that you have the diode connected to the generator in the correct direction of current flow?
Sounds like you need to get someone that knows generating systems on site to help you with your problem. The wire connected to "BAT" on the diode comes from or goes to the "B" on the lighting switch. As for someone familiar with generating systems I tend to agree with you. What gets me is that it worked before .
Last edited by Pat S; 07/25/14 06:15 AM.
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Where does the wire labeled 1 A connect on the other end? How about the wire labeled 1? From what I can see in the photo 1 A should be the field terminal and requires 6 volts or regulated 6 volts for the generator to generate. Then wire 1 would have 6+ volts if the diode is properly oriented. Or am I missing something? 1A goes to the field resistance on the lighting switch. 1 goes to "B" on the lighting switch.
Best Regards, Pat
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The Mangy Old Mutt
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JD, please give me quickie instructions on how to check diodes.
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Someone once told me "When things aren't working out, do something else". So I washed the horse.
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Using the continuity setting on your multi-meter, place one probe on one end of the diode and the other probe on the other end of the diode. See if you have continuity. If not, then reverse the probes. Diodes used as a replacement for the cut-out are either positive or negative and you need to find out which one that you have. Also, there should be a symbol on the side of the diode that indicates current flow. If in doubt, check out the information on diodes on Google. You will probably need to get someone locally that knows automotive charging systems to help you out.
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My neighbour, a retired TV repairman came over and checked both diodes. Both are good. He checked the entire circuit from the generator to the battery, everything good, nothing open including the field resistor.. We started the car and we did JD's voltage check between the generator and ground, nothing. His verdict, the generator (the new one in this case) isn't producing power.
Which brings us back to the generator. Could it be I wasn't "polarizing" long enough for the right field to establish itself.
Also, a member sent me a PM saying that there is NO need to polarize unless it is a system with a regulator. I also didn't find anything about it in my manual.
So either way, something causes both generators not to charge. Asking around I found that one of the local shops may still have their old tester. If they do I'm taking both generators there Monday.Until then, thank you all and have a good weekend. I'm going to finish polishing the horse for the parade tonight.
Best Regards, Pat
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the generator (the new one in this case) isn't producing power. So, I will ask again....did the company that rebuilt the generator that you just received test it on their generator test bench and, if so, what were the test results? I find it hard to believe that they sent you a generator without testing it first. Which brings us back to the generator. Could it be I wasn't "polarizing" long enough for the right field to establish itself. No. If you got a spark when the generator was polarized then the generator is polarized. Also, a member sent me a PM saying that there is NO need to polarize unless it is a system with a regulator. I also didn't find anything about it in my manual. That is incorrect. A generator with a cut-out has to be polarized when it is installed on the car. There are specific instructions in the Delco-Remy generator manuals stating that generators with a cut-out must be polarized and Delco-Remy gives specific instructions on how to polarize a generator with a cut-out. There is one test that you can do at home. Remove the generator from the vehicle and hook it up to the car battery. In doing so the generator should motor. If the generator motors, there is a good chance that the generator is working.
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[quote] So, I will ask again....did the company that rebuilt the generator that you just received test it on their generator test bench and, if so, what were the test results? I find it hard to believe that they sent you a generator without testing it first. [/color]Yes they have. It says: This unit has been performance tested at the factory to ensure peak performance. It goes on to say to call them instead of returning the unit to give them a chance to solve the problem.
No. If you got a spark when the generator was polarized then the generator is polarized.
[color:#3366FF]I got a spark. There is one test that you can do at home. Remove the generator from the vehicle and hook it up to the car battery. In doing so the generator should motor. If the generator motors, there is a good chance that the generator is working. [color:#3366FF]We tried that with a small 6v battery and it didn't motor (the old generator). Perhaps I should try with the car's battery. in case the little one doesn't have enough oomph. Following the tests in the manual, everything points at the resistor or the ammeter. It could be that the other ammeter I tried is bad too. Although, I think if it was bad it wouldn't show a discharge when the lights are on. Is there a test I can do to the ammeter or do I have to send it out. Also, can I jump the ammeter to see if it makes a difference? [/color]
Last edited by Pat S; 07/26/14 06:24 AM.
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Did your neighbor determine whether your diode is set up positive or negative? It's my understanding that a diode is simply a "one way valve" and will only allow the current to flow in one direction. I am far from being an expert on anything electrical but from reading all the above post I think its possible the diode is reversed (set for pos. grd) or is preventing proper polarizing.
Steve D
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Perhaps I should try with the car's battery Yes, definitely use the car battery for the motoring test and test the generator that you just received. If the generator doesn't motor then call the people that worked on it as they requested. You can test an amp meter by removing it from the car and putting it in line between the car battery and some kind of a current draw like a six volt heater motor. If using a small heater motor, when the motor turns the amp meter should read a discharge. Then, reverse the wires on the back of the amp meter and try it again. This time when the small heater motor turns the amp meter should read on the charge side.
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Did your neighbor determine whether your diode is set up positive or negative? It's my understanding that a diode is simply a "one way valve" and will only allow the current to flow in one direction. I am far from being an expert on anything electrical but from reading all the above post I think its possible the diode is reversed (set for pos. grd) or is preventing proper polarizing. He checked both and the one I bought from a member here is set for negative ground. the other one is as well but there are instructions on the side telling you which way to connect for a negative or positive ground setup.
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Took it to the local show today. It was among relatives between two Camaros and near a pristine 86 coupe. The guy has owned it since new.Is selling it now.
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I think he can "motor" the generator while on the car, just needs to remove the fan belt, and touch the armature terminal with the battery wire.
Steve D
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The Mangy Old Mutt
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With the engine pans on getting at the mounting bolts is a pain so just loosening them and the adjusting strap should be quicker in my opinion.
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The Mangy Old Mutt
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Steve is correct, if a diode controlled a fluid it would allow flow in 1 direction only. Tony
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He said "Before you go through the trouble of removing the generator try this. Start the car & then disconnect the battery. If the car stops, then it isn't charging". I tried that and it stopped. Is he correct? I suppose the problem could still be the resistor or the gauge.
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Asking around I found that one of the local shops may still have their old tester. If they do I'm taking both generators there Monday Well?
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I didn't go yesterday but I went this morning to verify if in fact he had the rig. He does. His answer is in the post above. I haven't gotten around to taking the generators there yet.
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The Mangy Old Mutt
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Asking around I found that one of the local shops may still have their old tester. If they do I'm taking both generators there Monday Well? Well..... well neither of'em charges. So now we know. So I burned the one that was in the car and I bought a dud. Back to the repair shop. That is going to use up some of my 2 week summer as Joe calls it.
Best Regards, Pat
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