VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND NEWER 1949-1954 Trailers

What size of open car hauler is recommended for a '49- '54?

Brewster,

Featherlite makes a 17.5 footer that would serve but I would go for one of about 20 feet instead. More versatile.

I don't know why you are asking this question seeing how you have nothing that warrants towing. The convertible needs to be driven. The sedan needs to stay home, since you inherited it and you wouldn't want anything to happen to it.

You must be thinking of buying a nice 1941 Special deluxe Station Wagon, Coupe, or Cabriolet. Now those we can understand being trailered. They should be hauled in an inclosed trailer so as to not subject them to mean ol' wind buffeting and distracting other motorists a=rubber necking at them and, thereby, causing accidents.

You started this.

Seriously, Featherlite and Tommie (Tommy?) trailers are the very best but expensive. You can do just as well with a homemade one. Try to get one with a full floor pan, though. Given the prestige, The F-L and Tommie trailors are more suited for 1941 than 1951. The 1950 convertible is a toss-up.

Charlie

I have a 20' Featherlite. I could have used the shorter one but I never know when I might want to haul something longer than our '31. With my other 20' trailer that I built I hauled a 1929 Pierce Arrow Formal Sedan home for a friend after he lost a rob bearing. I could not have done it with a shorter trailer. You do not need to use 20' but if you need it and don't have it you are sunk

I have hauled my 51 on my 16 foot open trailer and it has handled it well weight wise (7000 GVW) but strapping it down is tight. I agree with others that a 20 footer would be more useful and easier to use. The problem with adding in all the extras in an open trailer is that you start approaching the cost of an enclosed trailer-particularly if you can find a good late model used one. With a nice restoration an open trailer is still subject to road hazards.

I got a quote today of 6k all in for a 20 foot. It seemed a bit high, as 16 feet is about 4k. I figured it would be easier to store a flat deck instead of an enclosed one. Also, can you use a car cover while towing, or will it damage the paint?

Charlie... I'm getting one to tow either car on my trips to the States now. It seems stupid to drive two cars, and it wouldn't be fair to Jane to have her in one by herself with a screaming kid all day. Wait... maybe that is a good idea! The good thing is that while we are on the tours, I'll drive the car and Jane will haul the rescue trailer around to pick up all of the stranded '41 owners.

Do not use a cover while hauling your car on an open trailer. It will rub the paint and damage it.

Over the years I have heard of more wrecks with closed trailers than open ones. I think is is probably from wind and passing trucks that causes the drivers to loose control and the vehicle gets beat around inside the trailer.

Another problem with a closed trailer is not being able to see behind the wide box behind you. I have towed travel trailers and open car trailers. I'll stick with an open car trailer any day. Just my opinion.

saw an ad locally for a 20 foot enclosed for $5995.00 brand new!!

Brewster,

I have never, ever said anything as cruel as that statement of yours about Jane driving around rescuing stranded 41 owners. Mercy! Have you no sense of respect? Have you lost your marbles? :41s don't need no stinkin rescuing. The Jane part would be okay, though. Tell her to pack the cooler. We'll just pull over when we spot her coming down the road and fake a breakdown. Even open the hood.

An apology to all 41 owners may be in order here. If I don't see one soon, I'm gonna call for a boycott by 41 owners of the "Chatter." (Bet that gets your attention.) Heavens to Betsy!

Back to the subject. I've heard that some tarps will rub the paint severely on a car in an open trailer. Not sure if all fabrics will do this or not.

Enclosed is good but you need a wide one so you can get in and out after parking it inside and strapping it down. Not just any enclosed will serve well. Do your homework if going that route.

I still say go with a 20 foot, 6 lug, aluminum trailer. Bite the bullet once. You won't regret it later on. A Tommie or Featherlite is a prestigious item to have and the envy of all other haulers not so fortunately equipped. Get one of those tongue dollies and you can move the sucker by yourself any where you want to.

Tell me you're not thinking of towing the 50 with the 51 or visa versa.

Charlie

Charlie...Towing the '50 with the '51 kind of defeats the purpose of any of the towing at all. The problem is that in Canada it is law that your child has to be in a properly installed child seat or booster until 80 pounds or 8 yrs old or something like that. I'm not putting belts in the cars, So a seat for the baby is out. We figured that having a proper tow vehicle will also give Jane a "way out" to head to the mall on judging day at the Central meets too. If she has a trailer with her, then I'll let her take Mrs. Charlie shopping as well. That way she can haul all of Mrs. Charlie's purchases back to the hotel. I bet Mrs. Charlie doesn't get out to the mall much... Do they have malls in N.C.?? Someday when Jane's not looking, I'm going to find a little '32 roadster to buy and throw on the back of the trailer too...

Are you saying you are planning to tow one, in a trailer ..... while the OTHER ONE is the tow vehicle ????

You will be towing close to 4500 lbs with the '50 or '51, car and trailer.

Don't see that working with a 216 or 235 in the tow vehicle ..... if I'm understanding you correctly.

I think he is referring to purchasing a proper tow vehicle with a trailer so his wife and new bambino can attend meets, etc. Without installing seat belts the youngster can not ride in either old Chevy until it meets the age or size requirement. So if either car is driven to the event then the kid can not go. If either is trailered then the family can attend as well.

Chipper,

I think you're right.

The statement earlier by Brewster: "I'm getting one [trailer] to tow either car on my trips to the States now" and the fact that he had not mentioned a specific towing vehicle, kind of got me thinking that he intended to drive one as a tow vehicle whilst a-hauling the other.

I guess Jane will be driving one of the vehicles, the one not towing.

I recommend a full size GMC 3500 with Duramax and Allison Transmission as the towing vehicle. I loved mine, but he won't have to go that heavy. My Yukon Denali EX with six liter engine does quite well, too. And rides great.

Charlie

My first thoughts were the same. Tow one with the other. But when I re-read the part about child restraint requirements and seat belts it finally clicked and I understood that he was referring to a tow vehicle that would have all that modern child safety equipment.

I'm certainly not the brightest light bulb, but the comments by Bruce were not clear to me, as to what the tow vehicle would be, thus my question.

We'll wait to read what the tow vehicle will be in the next episode of VCCA Chat.

You're all right… I haven't mentioned the tow vehicle yet. I've been looking at lightly used trucks with tow packages on them. I'm tied up between the Chevy/GMC or a Ford. Yeah… I said Ford Gotta admit, the quality is there right now in their trucks. Not that eco six though… it'll be a V8.


Sorry for the confusion. My initial comment about us being in separate cars referred to me driving an old car, and her following in our Equinox. Seems dumb to be in separate cars all week! With a tow vehicle, at least we would all be together for the ride there and home. I seem to have enough use for a truck at home as well. I used to have a Mazda 4X4… man I miss that truck!

If you installed seat belts in your '50 and '51, you all could go in the classic car.

Much less expensive than buying a tow vehicle and a trailer.

Bob, it's not just about keeping the law happy. I don't have a problem putting myself in the old cars and heading down the highway, and I understand my wife's right to decide to put herself beside me. What I could never live with however, is putting my child in one of the cars and heading out onto the highways. These cars are just not safe to be in if they are ever in a high speed accident, with or without seat belts. It's a risk I accept when I get in… but i is not a decision I would take from a child to make. When she hits 12 years old, and understands the risks of her decisions, she can decide if she wants to ride in the cars for herself. Local, or in-town tours are another thing… but for the stretches across country where we are on the 400 series highways, or the Interstates, we have decided that trailering is a safe way to go together as a family. There's a big difference between 80kph and 120kph surrounded by a lot of the idiot drivers out there today. Make no mistake… I'm not going to be owning any trailer queens. Just the ride to the meets/tours will be by trailer.

I understand and accept your comments, except for one.

Since the mid 1970's, I have towed campers, travel trailers, trailer queens (not my own) and have found one fact to be true ... and in conflict with your statement.

Towing anything is a risk, more of a risk, than not towing, at all.

There are variables within towing that decide if you come home again, or not. Yes, just driving your Equinox has variables that will decide if you come home or not, as well.

Towing is just as safe as your equipment allows you to be.

Towing is just as safe as your skills, in towing a trailer.

Towing is just as safe as your fellow driver, sharing the road with you, allows you to be.

If driving your family in the family vehicle gives you a 9 out of a 10 for safety, then towing a rig with your family may give you a 7.5 out of a 10, just based on the additional complications, by using a trailer to tow.

I agree with all of the above. Towing adds increased risk. First on your part as pulling a trailer does add to driver responsibility. Second because you now have more exposure on the highway and not everyone respects the needs of someone pulling a trailer. You have a lot more control of your situation when just driving a car, even if an antique.

I agree with all of the above… and I rate putting seat belts in a '51 and driving it at 110 with a screaming kid in the back seat at about a 5.2 out of 10. It's great to hear you all think I'm headed in the right direction!

Fellas,
I respectfully disagree with your opinions about safety of trailering versus driving an old car. I have been pulling trailers since I was a kid. Don't know exactly how many miles I have trailered but expect it is well over 1/2 a million miles.

I do agree that trailering requires some added skill and attention that can be acquired relatively easily. It also requires the proper equipment. Load equalizing hitches and sufficient braking capability are essential. Also properly adjusted trailer versus tow vehicle brakes is important.

Trucks and trailers will receive more attention and respect on the highway than a single vehicle (both by the operator and others on the road). Most other drivers recognize that the larger and heavier combinations present an increased threat to their safety and will give a wider berth and more consideration when approaching or merging. There is less differential between highway speeds and other traffic compared with most older Chevys. The greater the differential the more likely a problem. Also the suspension, braking, safety equipment and reliability of a modern tow vehicle far out perform any of our old Chevys.

Finally, if you don't feel comfortable or capable towing then don't do it. There are already too many people who should not be on the roads, let's not add another.

I agree with Mr. Chipper. I have used both open and enclosed trailers, by all means don't buy anything less than 20' hauling capacity for a Chevrolet car or half ton truck. A 53 will be a tight fit inside a 20' enclosed trailer but a 20' will work. I haul our 53 or the 28 sedans inside a 20' enclosed trailer that is barely tall enough for the 28. Some folks believe my 05 Tahoe (5.3 liter and factory trailering package) was a bit small for a trailering tow vehicle but it works fine forus using a Reese load-leveling hitch. On a 20 ' open trailer the rearend of the 53 projects off the end of the trailer. With an enclosed trailer you can haul your car without it being a target for ripoff artists, and have a nice "garage" for protection from hail damage at night.

If you don't feel competant to tow a trailer, then driving the old car also could be dangerous, so stay at home! That is why We no longer tour, we miss touring but neither of us is able to load and unload our old cars ,or haul them on the interstates, having a flat is just too much anymore......and we just can't enjoy the touring experiance anymore.... Tour while you can!

We really need to sell our old Chevys and trailers, but we just haven't got to that point yet.

"we have decided that trailering is a safe way to go together as a family".

Bruce, My comments, concerning trailering, were directed to you, based on your comment in bold type.

Towing may be the answer for you .... or you may want to consider staying closer to home and drive your classic only to events closer to home.

Point I was making is this .... whether you drive the classic or tow the classic, the same child is going to be with you. The same child will carry on, no matter what vehicle you choose.

Towing does require above average driving skills and does require a great deal of attention to what's going on in front and around you.

You spoke (your words) of the "screaming kid".

From my personal experience of towing 40 plus years, I would not want that distraction of a screaming kid or a distraction of ANYTHING, while towing and maneuvering a trailer and tow vehicle.

Primary concern here is to keep you and your family safe.

I have to disagree that "trucks and trailers will receive more attention and respect". Should be that way, but way too many drivers don't. I do agree with Bruce that his family is better protected in case of an accident in a modern tow vehicle than an antique car, but the chances of getting into an accident may increase simply because there is more exposure. I don't have half a million miles under my belt, but driving from N.H. thru Ma. then Hartford Ct. and New York city to get to a tour in N.J. should count double.

Brewster,

Sounds like you are going to spend a lot on cash getting to that meet!!!

Now, I normally don't let my generous side run this deep, but here is what I propose. You send me a airline ticket to your fair city and I will drive either of your cars for you so you can relax with your wife and new baby and just head for the meet. If I don't show up for a few days, you can assume that we will start a new show called Brewster/Jimmy V - parts unknown, sorta like that show Bourdain - parts unknown. In time, after visiting my Brother in Canada and going to parts unknown, I will notify you where I am and you can come get your car and drive it back home. Heck, I'll even buy my own gas!! That way it'll give you a short vacation going back home!!

Whadda think??

Jim.

"but driving from N.H. thru Ma. then Hartford Ct. and New York city to get to a tour in N.J. should count double".

That trip should qualify you for a AAA White Knuckle Ride of the Highway Award.

Jim… That sounds oddly appealing!

Does anyone have any experience towing with 2010+ Ford 4.6L V8? Do they have enough power and torque for towing a '51 on an open trailer? There's a dealer in town with two trucks… one is a 5.4L, and the other lower miles but smaller engine.

For what it's worth I towed my 51 on an open trailer with a 99 Dodge 2 wheel drive short bed with the 318 engine.It did have the locking diff. and auto trans. It was a little slower in the hills than my present 2009 Silverado ext.cab 4x4 but fuel mileage was about the same-13.5 mpg . Check the specs to see if it was built for towing or simply had a hitch installed.

Brewster,

Had an 03 F-150 with 5.4 and it had plenty of oomph for whatever I pulled. 16 ft. car trailer with VAC Case on it which weighs about same as your Chevy.

Now own 09 F-150 with 4.6 in it and it sure doesn't have the guts of the 5.4 when pulling my welding trailer of about 3500 lbs. Up to you, but if I had my druthers, it would be definitely the 5.4. Just my opinion here and best to ya.

Jim.


Jim.

Thanks Jim, that's the sort of info I'm looking for. Is the under umph going to be a huge detractor for the 2-3 times a year I tow with it? Is the 4.6 a better engine for daily driving? Steve… you're right, I plan on going with the full tow package.

Brewster,

I doubt you will notice much, if any, difference other than when climbing grades. The longer and steeper is revealing. Relatively flat roads will not make much difference. You could pull with a six if not for grades and then the only difference is the amount of time to get to the top which will be small.

I have not pulled with a Ford but have GM products. For many years I used my dad's 68 6 cylinder 1/2 ton to pull heavy loads (far heavier than the trailer and the 51) to Hershey and Carlisle. Not a problem except for two hills in western MD on I-70 where I joined the eighteen wheelers a-grinding along. Make sure the trailer has good 4-wheel brakes. What goes up must come down.

Generally HP = grade pulling power (unless you want to pass everything on the road when wind resistance becomes a larger factor), not much of anything else in advantage.

Charlie

I won't be looking to drive hammer down to any of these events. In fact, I'll likely be in the slow lane plodding along behind a green '53 and a blue '35! I just want to get there in a safe manner that my whole family can enjoy the trip. Slow lane with the big trucks on the grades is fine with me, as long as I'm not slowing them down…

Maybe go and talk to the dealer and see if you can hook a load to each pickup and drive it? You will see first hand how each acts. I've towed with truck that have a small engine and it can be done, but for me things go better when I have enough power to keep up with traffic. Good Luck, Don

I don't think there is much difference between daily use on those 2 engines. The only reason I got the 4.6 in my last truck was that I did not want the 6 speed auto. The 5.4 only came with 6 speed, but the 4.6 came with 5 speed auto. Had the 5.4 came with 5 speed, would have bought it. Not much difference in fuel mileage between the 2, but the torque and power is really missed. I only put about 4 thousand miles a year on my trucks. Try not to use them as daily transportation because of gas prices. I think you would be extremely disappointed with the 4.6 pulling car trailer and car on the trailer, even if only a couple of times a year. Just my opinion here Brewster. Good luck.

Jim.

Bruce,

Just for the sake of "what works", in the world of towing.

Back in 2000, I bought my '51 in Cedar Rapids, Iowa. It was 750 miles from my home, then, in Madison, Ohio.

I had a 1997 Chevy S10, extended cab, 4.3 V6, automatic.

To get the car home, I ordered and installed a Draw Tite hitch and trailer wiring on the S10, also installed air shocks.

I rented a U Haul 4 wheel car carrier trailer, with surge brakes. Trailer weight 1,600 lbs or so.

Loaded the '51, another 3,200 lbs or so, for a total of 4,800 lbs, to be towed. Adjusted the air shocks to level the trailer/truck, then hit the road.

Admittedly, the Interstate from Cedar Rapids to Madison, Ohio is more flat than not, but the S10 did a fine job, was very pleased with the performance.

I'm not suggesting a S10, as your tow vehicle, but the 4.3 did a very good job, as small as that truck and engine is.

No matter what you use as a tow vehicle, drive the right lane, whenever possible. Let the traffic pass you .... then you'll find you have a lane to yourself, where you will not have the need to pass anyone.

Assuming you're buying auto trans., master the upshift and downshifting, in a manual fashion, to get higher RPM's between shifts on the acceleration side ... and to use the downshifting to allow brakes AND transmission to slow you down.

Towing requires "planning ahead moves", whenever possible.

Sorry for the long post.

It may also be a good idea to do some reading about towing damage to overdrive transmissions, especially in underpowered units.

Yes, good point. In my explanation above, I did NOT use o.d.

Yes… I'm fine with the "how to tow" rules, and I have a great coach in my Dad, who's been towing a 5000lbs+ travel trailer all over Canada and the USA for the last 25 years, with four different rigs now. I think my concern is that he tows a lot more weight a lot further, as they have been known to go across country for several weeks at a time. If I'm pulling to one or two shows a year, I don't think I'll be too worried about leading the traffic… but don't want to hold it up. I need something that's also good as a daily driver, so wondered if that much motor is worth having around and paying for,(gas insurance, etc) or If I'm better to get the smaller V8 with a good cooling and braking set up, and tool along like I'm on vacation. I've pretty much decided I'm going with a full-size extended cab with short bed.

Get the bigger engine. The difference it will cost to have and operate it is minimal, you will be happy you did.

It will also in my opinion be more valuable at trade in time when you get a NEW CHEVY.

Amen to the Chevy.

Well... I've gone and put the cart before the horse! Dad helped pick up my new trailer today. I drove a few extra miles to get it, but saved myself about $2000 vs the quote I got in my hometown here. I got a 20ft flat deck, with wood floors, a two foot dovetail and side stow ramps. It's a good quality Texas built trailer. Not sure if it made a difference in price, but my local guy has a lot full of horse, utility, and enclosed trailers, and he seemed to want to talk me into a closed trailer. The place I bought from is right across the road from Varney Speedway, and they had a lot full of open car trailers. They seem to know more about hauling with them as well.

Now my question is this... What are the best methods for strapping the car down? Chains vs.straps? Strapping/chaining the axle vs. the "tire webbing" type of hold down, and "D- rings" vs using the side stake holes? The trailer doesn't have D-rings, so I'd have to add them. Is it worth it?

Another reason I need a pickup... went to the Garden Centre today. I'm sure this tree will survive a hurricane after it's ride home!

I have heard many stories about cars rescued with trees growing up thru them. Never realized how that could happen, but now have a better understanding of how that could happen.

To hold my trucks on the trailer, I use two chains over the front axle (where the springs connect) and hooks to close the loop. I found the optimum vehicle position on the trailer and shortened the chains accordingly so that the front wheels were in the correct place.

Then, I use 5000# straps over the rear axle to pull the vehicle tight against the chains. This setup seems to work well and positions the trailered vehicle in the same place each time.

Cheers, Dean

If you're concerned about marking up the chassis with chains, you can use straps. Mac's tie downs has strap sets you can buy which hold the car securely vs chains. Make sure you inspect the strap webbing periodically to make sure their integrity is unchanged. Quality strap sets will include holders which secure the ends of the straps to prevent flapping against the body and chassis. It's a matter of personal choice. Chains vs. straps.

When enroute, make sure you check the tension on your straps and chains periodically when travelling.

Thanks to all that offered hints and suggestions for my new towing setup… decisions are all made! I'm picking this up Tuesday night!

Nice truck.

Nice truck.. Now that you have the truck, the trailer, the baby ..... what is happening with the '51 ????

It's going to the painter in the next couple of weeks. It'll be my first load...

That's good. Will it be a "fill in job", or will it be scheduled to go through the paint shop quickly?

I ask because we all know a story or two where the classic car goes into the body shop, then the body shop guy says it'll be "fill in work" .... then the car somehow gets absorbed into the walls of the body shop, like a disappearing act, never to be seen again

It's a private shop. I've told him to take his time, as I'm in no rush. he only works one or two cars at a time. He painted 1931roadster's (Paul's) car, and did an outstanding job!

That's good news.

Hope all your expectations are met and hope to see pics.