VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - GENERAL Mechanical - Engine, Trans, etc Adjusting tappets from scratch, how do I do it?

I fully understand about the initial setting. In addition to the methods already given wanted to suggest another less complicated way to make the initial adjustments. Just tighten them until they are all tight enough. Does not require a written procedure or calculations or anything except adjust the loose ones. When there are no more that are too loose you are done. Even I can remember that.

Added the vacuum method so people would know that there was another adjustment option after the engine is run for a while.

I always do it the way Chipper suggests......and reset them later with the engine running and hot.

Peter,

Apology accepted. And I apologize for my knee-jerk (too quick) response. I thought BS was the same everywhere.

I hope you get the valves adjusted from scratch using information and advice just as you requested. And that the engine runs well when started. Good luck with it.

For any future needs please let me know if I can help in any way.

Best wishes,
Charlie

I always do the initial adjustment by the adjust as you go method. Don't have to spend time trying to figure out which cylinder is on compression stroke or if it is on the timing mark or where the rotor is pointing. I can look and fairly quickly tell which valves are being pushed down and leave them for later. Just start from front to rear tightening them to a few thousanths over spec. Rotate and adjust some more. Forgot to mention that after you get a few adjusted you can just rock the rocker arms by hand and tell if they are tight, about right or too loose. Might help to have the "feel" when you find it necessary to adjust a valve on the side of the road.

hi Charlie,
Thank you for your gentlemanly reply.
I sometimes make mistakes with regard to the forum banter.
Many words and meanings are different around the world and genuine blunders are easy to make.

This forum is a wonder full treasure trove of information and indeed friendship around the globe.
Thank you for being understanding, the spirit lives on for another year...merry Christmas..
Peter

hi there Chipper,
I think that I will try that method and see how I go.
Thanks to every one for the mountain of help and information given....
Merry Christmas
Peter

In the workshop manual it mentions the vacuum gauge method, but only the words, nothing about how to do it, but then that's another story...........

Hi there,
I think that I have now adjusted the tappets correctly, but the car wont run.

It starts , but splutters. pops and bangs then dies.

A friend helping, said that maybe it is sucking in air at the manifold, so off came all the manifold and carburetor gear.
He suggested buying some high temp silicon gasket maker and applying a bead to all inlet surfaces and re-bolting it all up again.

I have the high temp silicon, made in the USA by the way, but have not ventured down that path yet, because although the silicon will withstand 700 degrees, I still think that it might just melt away and be a complete waste of time? and maybe that is not the problem to start with.
Is the timing on these engines very critical? I have the octane selector set to zero as per manual, I have also heard that 10 deg advance is beneficial to correct engine running, mine has always been set to the zero on the distributor adjustment markings.

Peter

Is it possible that you might have the timing 180 degrees out?

hi there,
Yes that ha been suggested also, but how can determine if that is the condition? what foolproof method would you recommend?

Peter

Here is a simple check (mentioned above previously): Remove all of the spark plugs. Press your thumb over the number one spark plug hole and have another person turn the engine over by hand until number one comes up on compression (the compression will blow your thumb off of the spark plug hole). Then check the timing mark on the flywheel and it should be on the pointer, or close to it. If so, then look at the distributor rotor to see if it is pointing towards the number one tower on the distributor cap. If the rotor is pointing to number six instead you are 180 degrees out on the timing.

just did that and my finger was blown off big time on number one so its timed OK.

read the manual again and when setting ignition timing, pointer on ball bearing, the basic timing is Fully Retarded when the marker on distributor is at the zero mark on the scale. So now thinking that when it starts , its too fully retarded to run and have to quickly adjust it to an advance setting to run normally?

Peter

Was the rotor pointing to the number one tower on the distributor cap?

Bluey
From EXPERIENCE on my part DO NOT use silicone sealers where there is the likely hood of contact with petrol, the silicone will dissolve.
Tony

Tony, I refitted all the exhaust/inlet manifold WITHOUT the silicon gasket maker. The very fine print on the back said exactly as you said , so I did not go down that path.

Peter

Yes the rotor was pointing to number 1 cylinder position, then did the same test to number 6 and I found that position quickly and decisively. So concluded that I had been setting the tappets correctly, also took that opportunity to double check my settings once again and all was within tolerances.

cheers
Peter

Cool! Glad that everything finally worked out.

now to try and start it again and see if it is still a little recalcitrant 207 CID donk....
after Christmas dinner would be a good place to start, mince pies, Holden cars and boomsadaisy?

Peter

Plugs out. Thumb over #1. Someone turns her over till you feel it compress... top of stroke check the tappers.... now in sequence 1. 5. 3. 6. 2. 4... always check each cylinder at top of it's compression stroke (thumb over plug hole) this means both lobes on the camshaft are well away from interfering with your reading... hats off to anyone that sets them running. Good idea but not for the novice.. if you are worried set them .001 over..better noisy than burnt out.. beginners can watch the rocker arm compress the valve then take the crank 360 degrees and check it.... long process but infallible..

Have fun

If you believe the valve adjustment is now correct and it still sputters and backfires...I think your timing is retarded...Advance your timing...I had this problem at one time, start the motor and (with distributor loose) rotate it (until the idle increases )...Drive it and see how it runs...Then readjust idle speed ( on the carburetor ) to your liking...