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I am having wiring issues with my 38 I had a guy (neighbor) come out and work on it last night some and couldn't figure my blinker issues out. I had another guy that was highly reccomended by another car builder come out and have a look today. Long story short he said the wiring was a mess and needed to be replaced. It is a mess and sloppy done job. My question is does $850.00 sound like a fair price for a total rewire of the car with him providing everything?
Last edited by Stumpman; 10/01/13 10:37 PM.
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The Mangy Old Mutt
"If It's Not Junk.....It's Not Treasure!"
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IF he's planning on using the original style of cloth covered harness. If his intentions are to use a modern plastic insulated harness the price quoted is more than a little high.
VCCA Member 43216 Save a life, adopt a senior shelter pet. 1938 HB Business Coupe 1953 210 Sedan
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Backyard Mechanic
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I agree with both posts above . frank
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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It will be a modern wiring harness. I was told the kit is around 300.00. He said 3 days labor to pull the old wiring out and rewire the car. What should be a fair price? I wouldnt work 3 days for 500.00 is why i thought it wasnt a bad deal. I wanted more opinions what sounds fair to yall?
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If you rewire a car with a harness made specifically for that car it shouldn't take more than 4-5 hours to totally rewire a '38 Chevy. One full day would be max if they had difficulties. People must get paid a lot more where you live. Folks around here would work hard for a full week for $500 and consider it good money.
VCCA Member 43216 Save a life, adopt a senior shelter pet. 1938 HB Business Coupe 1953 210 Sedan
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Oil Can Mechanic
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Oil Can Mechanic
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If your 38 is original, I'd (gently) urge you to replace the harness with an original style one from Rhode Island or Narragansett or another provider. The main one for your car is $399 plus additional costs for other accessory harnesses, etc. http://www.narragansettreproductions.com/partspdfs/parts-gm.pdfhttp://www.riwire.com/Catalogs/40/CAT2.HTMModern wiring in an otherwise original '38 would look 'questionable' if you're going for the original look / judging. You would also likely have to step up to 12 volts, which may also be an issue if you want to keep your 6 volt accessories. To each is own, and its your car. I just wanted to share the info and show that original style harnesses are available for your car. Hope this helps and best of luck with the project. Good thing you're doing this and making the car reliable and safe.
-Daryl Scott #45848 • 1947 Chevrolet Fleetline Sportmaster Sedan • 1976 Chevrolet C20 Fleetside
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If your 38 is original, I'd (gently) urge you to replace the harness with an original style one from Rhode Island or Narragansett or another provider. The main one for your car is $399 plus additional costs for other accessory harnesses, etc. http://www.narragansettreproductions.com/partspdfs/parts-gm.pdfhttp://www.riwire.com/Catalogs/40/CAT2.HTMModern wiring in an otherwise original '38 would look 'questionable' if you're going for the original look / judging. You would also likely have to step up to 12 volts, which may also be an issue if you want to keep your 6 volt accessories. To each is own, and its your car. I just wanted to share the info and show that original style harnesses are available for your car. Hope this helps and best of luck with the project. Good thing you're doing this and making the car reliable and safe. the car is 12v it has a v8 in it. Its not an original car anymore. It was like this when i bought it. I wasn't looking for an original type car when i bought this one but didn't realize the wiring was such a mess at the time. It has power windows tilt wheel power steering and so on added to it. Thanks for all yalls comments on this.
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the car is 12v it has a v8 in it. Its not an original car anymore. It was like this when i bought it. I wasn't looking for an original type car when i bought this one but didn't realize the wiring was such a mess at the time. It has power windows tilt wheel power steering and so on added to it. You should have given us the above information about your car being a street rod first because that changes the answer to your question. When asking questions, please supply all specific and important information so that you will get the correct answer. In this case, everyone assumed that you had an original car so the above answers were based accordingly. Good luck with your re-wiring job. Sounds like it might be a major project since you have electric windows and etc.
The Mangy Old Mutt
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You're getting a lot of info on this subject..grin
If you're going to make your car a show car that's 100% correct you need a factory duplicate wiring harness. That's not to say that is a safe idea. One fuse for the entire car is anything but safe.But if it's a show car you won't be driving it much anyway. I doubt it catches on fire while on a trailer. If the focus is on judging and points you need to make it like it was in 1938.
No alternator No radial tires No updated modern bearings No shiney paint No accessories(that's just something else to be included in the judging) No updated waterpump change No DOT glass Nothing chromed that didn't come that way No gelcell battery
If you are planning on actually driving the car..I strongly suggest more fuses.
But..I'm in the minority on this subject, I sold my 38,what do I know..smiles
Last edited by wawuzit; 10/02/13 01:38 PM.
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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You're getting a lot of info on this subject..grin
If you're going to make your car a show car that's 100% correct you need a factory duplicate wiring harness. That's not to say that is a safe idea. One fuse for the entire car is anything but safe.But if it's a show car you won't be driving it much anyway. I doubt it catches on fire while on a trailer. If the focus is on judging and points you need to make it like it was in 1938.
No alternator No radial tires No updated modern bearings No shiney paint No accessories(that's just something else to be included in the judging) No updated waterpump change No DOT glass Nothing chromed that didn't come that way No gelcell battery
If you are planning on actually driving the car..I strongly suggest more fuses.
But..I'm in the minority on this subject, I sold my 38,what do I know..smiles wow sorry guys didn't mean to ruffle feathers. This is my first old coupe so i know little about them thats why all the questions. It is no show car and never will be it is a driver for me and the wife to enjoy and me and a son to spend time working on. It has power seats and windows and many more then one fuse now. Like i said thanks for the replies. I will limit the questions from now on sos not to get anyone bent out of shape over asking the wrong questions.
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No wrong questions here. I've asked hundreds of dumb questions. These guys know almost anything you'll need to know about old chevys.
It's a age old question about how and what you want to do with your old chevy.Many choices, and some prefer a certain kind of restoration. The main thing is..have fun and remember it's your car. good luck.I personally like show car antiques,streetrods and drivers but some guys just like one of the three. Again, I haven't seen to many questions that stump these ole boys.
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Oil Can Mechanic
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I will limit the questions from now on sos not to get anyone bent out of shape over asking the wrong questions. No need for that, we're here to help...so pull up a chair and enjoy the site. We're mostly restorers / original folks here but don't let that deter you. A lot of folks are experts on these cars and can help you out of a jam if you need expertise, parts or just conversation. We just didn't know what you were dealing with in terms of your particular car. Stick around, the VCCA is a great bunch of people. If you're interested in older hot rods, I would recommend the HAMB forums. They're another good bunch that's more focused on hot rods & traditional customs. Take care, and sorry for any misunderstanding.
Last edited by Daryl Scott; 10/02/13 07:43 PM.
-Daryl Scott #45848 • 1947 Chevrolet Fleetline Sportmaster Sedan • 1976 Chevrolet C20 Fleetside
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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I will limit the questions from now on sos not to get anyone bent out of shape over asking the wrong questions. No need for that, we're here to help...so pull up a chair and enjoy the site. We're mostly restorers / original folks here but don't let that deter you. A lot of folks are experts on these cars and can help you out of a jam if you need expertise, parts or just conversation. We just didn't know what you were dealing with in terms of your particular car. Stick around, the VCCA is a great bunch of people. If you're interested in older hot rods, I would recommend the HAMB forums. They're another good bunch that's more focused on hot rods & traditional customs. Take care, and sorry for any misunderstanding. Thanks for the info and link to the other site.
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Having spent hours under instrument panels in the assembly plant and wiring Street Rods after retirement the $850.00 price for wiring your vehicle and furnishing the supplies is a good price. There are several after market companys who make kits for Street Rods. With the accessories you mention you will need the larger kit. It will definitely take more than one day to complete your vehicle. My favorite manfacturers for Street Rod harnesses are American Auto Wire and Painless Auto Wire.
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Here's a interesting fact. The gas gauge and dome light wires are under the headliner. Also I'm sure you know this,but the 6 Volt wires are a larger size. The twin trumpet horn has the relay mounted on the horn cross bracket under the hood,where the horn mounts.
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I think so, too. Man, it's quite a bit of work...Even for a professional...Hey, he's got boat payments to make...!
1947 Fleetmaster Sport Coupe VCCA # 47475
If it's not wearing a Bowtie...It's not properly dressed...!
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