VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - GENERAL Electrical - 6 volt Did I burn the cutout? - 34 Master

I'll take it out on the highway to see if 40-45 reduces the rate of charge.

And I like JD's suggestion. I'll just order a modified cutout instead of getting this one modified.

What about the eBay item in posting 285618 above? Anyone familiar with it?

That is an aftermarket cut-out and it should work just fine for your application. However, the Filling Station also has new aftermarket cut-outs and they sell for $99.50, which is a little cheaper than the cut-out on eBay.

For those interested I have been running a 6 volt generator with the Jim Peterson hidden regulator for approx. 10 years. It has been trouble free very enlightening. Jim recommended to convert the cut-out to a diode which I have not done. Still use the original cut-out. He also recommends to set the third brush to max output, which I also have not done. Mine generator output is approx. 12 amps.

What I have found is that the battery charge that is required to start the engine is made up after only a mile or two of driving at slow to moderate speed. Not the 6-8 miles that I heard in the past. The initial charge rate is only approx. 10 amps instead of the 12 or so with out the regulator. The rate drops to slightly positive on the gauge when the battery is fully charged. At night when the headlights are on "bright" the ammeter will show a slight discharge. I figure at that rate I could drive all night and still not drain the battery. By far the best two things about using the regulator are: I can use the generator on the Boss's '31 Fire Truck or our '28 Coupe. I also don't have to remember to turn on the headlights (or off) so I don't overcharge the battery. Overcharging shortens the battery life and requires much more frequent topping up the water level. Quite a pain when you have to lift the floor board to check. I feel that the regulator has been paid off in battery life savings.

I recall reading, on this site, that conversion to a diode, in the cutout, required that the generator output be set to a maximum of 10 amps. or It will fry the diode and generator.
Richard

Here is a site that is interesting to check out regarding the "Genernator": http://www.gener-nator.com/index.htm

The hidden regulator was suggested to me by an ex-member. Says it works very well. Do you have Mr. Peterson's coordinates?

Jim Peterson
PO Box 912
Bend, OR 97709
541 389-0438

There is this really cool tool on the Internet called "Google". You can go there, type in what you are looking for and up it comes. I did that for James Peterson and here is his information:

James Peterson
P.O. Box 884
Bend, Oregon 97709
jpetersonbend@yahoo.com

I also found a neat web site about installing the Peterson Regulator: http://www.1928chevrolet.com/articles/voltreg.html

I think that the cost of the Peterson Regulator is around $100.

Guess we found different PO Box for Jim. I agree with Ron Beam on the regulator. It is well worth the money. I paid less than $ 100 many years ago so a price increase would be warranted.

I think that Jim's area code is 541 instead of 5411.

Thanks for notifying me so I could edit the number before the hour was up. That way any searching later will not be cornfuzed.

Hum......I should have waited until after the hour to edit was up.

Don't you love this link: http://lmgtfy.com/?q=Junk+Yard+Dog

Thanks JD. Looks like that installation is best left to an expert.

The is a very cool link, but all of those Junkyard Dogs are fakes!

Remember this thread from last year? I had discovered that the cause of all this was the cover coming loose and touching the armature. I had purchased a converted (to diode) cutout from AntiqueMechanic but didn't install it after I found the old one was still working . The main reason was that the replacement cutout wasn't a direct replacement and did not fit the existing holes. Well, it did it again and this time desoldered the connection between the coil and the frame.


Since Ray's cutout mounts the other way and has different spacing of the mounting holes I made an adapter plate in order to reuse the original holes on the generator.







Voilà, it works. This is at fast idle running on choke. Am I going to have to adjust the output? It looks like it is charging full tilt. What are the tests or observations required to determine that?

If the battery is really low it will take a while to charge. Did you charge the battery before installing new "cut out"? I believe the original cut-out only goes down when a load is applied or RPM decreases.

Yes I charged it for several hours yesterday after it wouldn't start to go to a little show we were having. I think I'll ride around for a while and watch what it is doing before adjusting anything? I think Ray had told me it didn't need to be adjusted, but that was last year.

The generator on a 1934 will charge the same if the battery is low or fully charged as there is no voltage regulator.
If the Canadian Masters are the same as the US versions the generator will charge at about 10 amps and with the light switch pulled out 1/2 notch about 15 amps. There is a resistor attached to the light switch to change the charging rate.
With a cold generator the rate may be slightly higher. Over about 50 MPH the rate drops off slightly.
To adjust the rate to specs the third brush is moved one way or the other.

Gene, what is my gauge showing, 10 or 20 amps? Is it 5-10-20 or 10-20?

Your old cut-out that mounts on your generator correctly can be converted to solid-state also.

In 1928 the cut-out mounted perpendicular to the generator housing. In 1929 and up the position of the cut-out was changed so that it would mount parallel to the generator housing, which would also be correct for your 1934.

Adjust your third brush to a max. of 10 amps output.

Picture shows 20 amps.

To reduce output is towards the fender right? I can't find my instructions from last time. The books don't say either.

I just might do that and have a spare.