VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1937-1945 1941 start up part 2

My question is did the machine shop do anything to modify the rear bearing cap and/or the seal area in the block? Did they modify the crankshaft in that area? Are there any shims remaining between main caps and block?

Once those questions are answered then a course of action can be prepared.

I think in a previous posting there was mention of the machine shop machining the seal groove. I think that is not a normal procedure. To get a real seal I think the only option with that block is to have it machined for the one piece seal that goes on the rear. Here is a discussion on the subject. One Piece Seal

This is the answer I posted on Mike's post My 41 Town Sedan is Finally Road Worthy!!. Sorry, Mike


Unfortunately, the Best Gasket graphite replacement kit included at least one roll pin which the machine shop installed to keep the gasket from moving. I think they may have intended it for use of the gasket for the early 8 cylinder Fords. If it was used on the block side of the seal it will make removing the seal and replacing it with a new one impossible with out removing the crank. The next step is to see what the machine shop decides to do to fix the problem? I need to find out exactly what was line bored? What was the effect of changing the depth of the gasket grove in the cap on the gasket? Was this what may be causing the leak? What will installing an original gasket do to stop the leak?

I have researched all "rear seal" posts back to 2002 and found a couple with the theory that it is the top seal that leaks (NOT maintaining contact with the surface of the crank), and it can be repaired by sliding a shim between the top gasket with the crank not removed. The shim being something like a wire from a coat hanger. I might think a coping saw blade might also work? But this is if there is no roller pin blocking its installation? I could try that on the current graphite seal, again if they didn't use the pin on the top.

In pass posts I have always said that I have installed 2 and 1/2 Best Graphite Gaskets. The last one was by leaving the engine in the car and just removing the cap's Best Gasket. On this installation I put a shim behind the gasket. I cut one out of the material the crank caps are shimmed with. I used the thickest material I had. This shim, which again was only on the cap was absolutely of no benefit in controlling my leak.

I think that the best practice would be to remove the engine, and then the crank. This would confirm the wear on the current seal and make installing a new NOS seal easiest. It would also make possible to easily install the pan gasket and to check the timing cover for an oil leak there? Which I think is the case?

Headed for a week of vacation will talk with the machine shop when I get back. Thanks, Mike
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Mike 41/77 Chevys

I installed the roll pin in my graphite seal also. I still don't understand why your Best Gasket Graphite Seal leaks. When I installed mine, I made sure that I rolled it in real tight. I used a giant socket to roll it into the groove really nice. I also didn't cut the rope seal perhaps exactly as short as the instructions stated. I wanted to make sure there was enough seal sticking up to mate it together. However, if you don't want to use a Best Gasket rope seal, get a Felpro rope seal at Napa. http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=FPGBS5048_0147383663