VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1929-1932 Replacing a Valve Cover Gasket on 1929

OK, I plan to replace my Valve Cover Gasket while I am my: 1929 Engine Timing/ Tune-Up [Plan of Action]

I have already ordered a replacement gasket from the Filling Station, should be on its way and here by end of next week, hopefully sooner :)

Replacing the Valve Cover Seems Pretty simple & Straight forward: Remove Valve Cover, remove existing Gasket, clean up surfaces on Engine & Cover, Install New Gasket. When I go to install the New Gasket should I install any form of sealant or Adhesive, i.e. Permatex No 2, and if so on which surface, Engine or Cover ?? Both ??

Also been seeing people mention Oil Wicks ?? What are these, where do they go, what do they do, etc... Pictures of them installed would be greatly appreciated !!

No need to apply any sealant. Gasket is thick enough to seal as long as it is properly positioned.

The oil wicks fit into the hole on the back side (next to the push rod) of the rocker arm. It helps to wick oil to the push rod cup.

Hello BearsFan315,
Usually gaskets that are used for the sheetmetal parts, the covers and the pans, are cork or rubber. Both require clean and straight metal to make a good seal. Normally, no sealer is needed if every time a cover is removed a new gasket is installed. But in reality, who does that? Cork gaskets are fragile and may break apart with repeated handling. Rubber holds up better. Both types tend not to want to stay in proper position while installing, so tacking them to the sheetmetal is usually the method used to keep them in place. After cleaning the sheetmetal surfaces, wipe them with solvent to remove any oil, Permatex doesn't stick well to oil. Choose which side of the gasket will rest against the sheetmetal. Apply Permatex on that side of the gasket only, just like buttering toast not like frosting a cake. Thin layer not thick. Attach the gasket to the sheetmetal, use strips of painters tape to hold gasket in position until the sealer sets, dries. As long as the engine block is clean and dry and smooth, it should not need to be sealed. In this way you can remove your covers numerous times using the same gasket. Use caution to not over tighten the sheetmetal fasteners or you might distort the metal, crush the gasket and create leaks.

These wicks were no where to be seen when I pulled the head off my '30 engine 4 years back, but I saw them listed in FS so ordered them anyway. The old-timer helping me refit the head (needed rocker arm shafts/bushings, 2 new valves, etc) asked what they were in the box of parts. I explained they were intended to maintain lubrication for the pushrod caps, he chuckled and said he never heard of such nonesense, and we should just throw them away.

A couple of days later when I went to help put the head back on the engine he said "by the way, I thought about it, and put the wicks in anyway, can't hurt". So I think they probably do help with lubrication as Chipper says, even if they are not very sophisticated by todays standards.

You can get a complete set of rocker arm oil wicks from the Filling Station.

If you haven't already done so, you might want to order the 1929 shop manual and the 1929-32 Chevrolet parts book as well.

Hmmm... so can you see the wicks with the engine assembled, are the wicks hidden ?? trying to LOOK for them to see if I have them on the 1929.

As for manuals, I have all of those and more... trying to learn from experience of others I always do my reading first, then some homework, and then ask around for opinions from those that have done this before and know a better way ( or so they may think ) to do things, that hopefully will make my life easier !!

ok, so looking at this shot, says NO OIL WICKS Installed. As it seems they go in the hole/ port just under the arm. Am i correct, will ahve to get in there and look when i get home tonight. After Yard work Of Course...
Oil Wicks 01
Oil Wicks 02

Easiest way to install them is with the arm removed ?? Can they be installed with the arm installed ??

When installing them do they go all the way in flush, do they hang out some, how much, shouldthey touch the cup/ push rod ?

Oh the fun !!

It is far easier to remove the rocker shafts as two assemblies, install the felts and then reinstall the rocker shaft assembly. If nothing else changes then you will not change the valve adjustment. It can be done with rockers in place but not easy! The ends will hang out to the side of the pushrod cup.

If you look at page 15 of the '31 owners manual Fig. 7 illustrates the "felt wick" installed in a rocker arm.

Unfortunately I do not have a 31 manual :/

As for removing the Rocker Arm Assemblies, do i just need to loosen and remove teh bolts/ nuts holding them in place and gently remove each of them seperately ? or do I have to disconnect the oilLine, and remove it as one piece ? two pieces. My concern is I am NOT sure how it all goes together, and I have scanned and gone through my books and manuals, no clear pictures or detail on how to install or remove them.

Looks like there are three (3) pieces, two rocker arm assemblies, then one (1) center piece where the oil tube connects. can i remove the two end rocker arm assemblies with out removing or disrupting the center piece where the oil tube connects.

There are five pieces. Two rocker shaft assemblies (with standoffs, rocker arms, springs retainer clips) the center piece with oil tube screwed to it, a spacer piece and internal spring. Take off the four (two one each shaft) bolts and then the nuts on the studs. That will let you lift up on the shafts. If you pull the center piece with the tubing away from the shaft it will depress the spring and allow it to slip out of the end of the shaft. Then can remove that shaft assembly. Just be aware that when you remove that shaft you have to pay attention so the spacer and spring don't jump off and get lost. Not a big problem if you know they want to do that. Just did that process yesterday. If you feel more comfortable removing the center assembly then it will be necessary to remove the tube without having the ferrule nut disappear down the hole in the head. Tying something around the tube or tape will help.

Look on page 19 of 1929 Owners Manual or page 19 of 1930 Owners Manual for the illustration of the "felt wick".

Ok, Think I can handle that, here is a picture and parts/ sections called out, this is what youa re talking about, mainly the spacer & spring section, is this what you are talkign about ??
Rocker Arm Assembly & Parts Pict

Then Little confused on this

What do you mean by pulling it away ?? unless the spacer & spring are somewhere not visible ?!?

And I do see that in my 29 manual, it is Figure 8 :) just need to order those now, and that would figure since i just ordered 2 days ago !! wondering what else i need to make an order... but know Murphy will win on that !

You might want to go through the Filling Station's catalog and view the 1929 stuff that they have before you order again just in case you need something else as well.

Yeha, been through it a few times, lots of "Wants", but have to stick to the "NEEDS" :)

As well as staying on task of what I am doing now :-)

Oooooh look at all the pretty parts n pieces !!!

Billy Possum has the wicks and a lot of other pretty parts you may need. I've ordered from them and the Filling Station frequently. and others.

Yeah Got C&P on the list for some engine parts/ components they machine there.

Also dealt with Gary Wallace as well.

Always good to have several options when looking for parts :)

Well did some looking and found out for sure, no wicks installed (1929 Oil Wicks: MIA) , so they are now on my list to order.

Still need to clean up the gasket surface, and the valve cover surface, Currently working on the bottom half of the engine right now, just removed the oil pan what a PAIN and a mess :/ So going back and forth as time permits.
Replacing Oil Pan Gasket on a 1929... Thoughts

Well foudn a local shop here that will dip my cover for me and clean it up. Also goingto do a small weld repair on the cover where it looks like someone punch a vent hole of sort in the cover with a small scerwdriver. Looks horrible.

I will then prime and paint the valve cover so it will be ready to be installed. going to check and set my valves while in her, and verify oil flow, and install wicks :)

Valve Cover is now at the local Radiator Shop, guy said he would gladly dip it to strip it then weld it up and pass it back to me for prime and paint...

Ok, got my Valve Cover back last night :)

Unfortunately he was UNABLE to weld up the punched holes due to the thinness of the metal. Actually looks like that over time moisture has set on the top inside of hte cover and slowly rusted and eaten away the metal. Maybe why Chevrolet Changed the design and installed the Vents to allow the moisture and air to escape preventing, or at least slowing down the erosion process.

A Few Picts of My Valve Cover Stripped:
Valve Cover Exterior Photo
Valve Cover Interior Photo
Valve Cover Bottom Pin Hole Photo
Valve Cover Top Pin Hole Photo

Now question is HOW can I fix this. I was thinking that I could use an Epoxy of sorts and BUILD the material back up on the top surface. Basically a nice thin coat, enought to build of the thickenss and fill in the pin holes. I was looking at:

Permatex Offerings:
Permatex® PermaPoxy™ 4 Minute Multi-Metal Epoxy Stick
Permatex® Cold Weld Bonding Compound

Loctite Offerings:
Loctite® Repair Putty Multi-Purpose
Loctite® Epoxy Weld™ Bonding Compound
Loctite® Metal Filled Epoxy Putty

JBWeld Offerings:
J-B Weld
KwikWeld

I really like the ones that are Petroleum Resistant and Cure Completely Hard. Do NOT want them coming lose and getting INTO the Engine.

Any thoughts or recommendations ??

There are several ways to fix it. Best is to cut out the thin metal and weld in new, then grind the welds flat and finish the outside. Can also clean well and solder up the holes. Epoxy like JB Weld is okay as long as the surface is immaculately clean and ruffed up. It will take the heat and oil.

Would not suggest any of the polyester fillers (use peroxide catalyst).

If you don't mind what the inside looks like, you could use JB Weld to glue a piece of sheet metal to the underside and fill the holes. Then, you can smooth out the outside and paint it.

Cheers, Dean

Well as for being clean that should not be a problem, since it was acid dipped (caustic Soda). Clean as a whistle...

Will let you know how it goes and post some picts once I am done.

Keep in mind that there is not as much room in the 29 valve cover as the later ones. I once tried to use one of the felt oilers on top of the rockers. It was pretty thick and held some of the valves open a little so I had to pull it off. I offered it to another club member with a 34 but he did not want it. I thought it would have helped keep everything lubricated better, and quieter.

Use a Drexel tool cut out the rusted metal area back to good metal. A big box store sells steel sheet metal. Use same gauge probably 22 ga. Use the removed part and trace onto new sheet metal. Use a mig or tig and weld by tack welding in one inch increments-this will minimize warping going the sheet metal. Fill in the gaps of the tack welds til solid. Grind flush, sand prime and paint. Just as any rust removal for sheet metal restoration.