VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1933-1936 33 Master running hot

I am replying via this forum since I don't know how else to contact you. I have a '35 Std Coupe that tends to run warm in hot weather, and I read your original post regarding the 6 blade fan. You stated it was necessary to use a spacer of approximately 3/8 inch thick. Can you recall what you used for the spacer? I am considering adapting that fan blade to my engine. Tried everything else; new radiator core, water pump, and an NOS '36 cyl head! If I put a fan before the radiator it will not go beyond 180 deg., so air flow must be the ptoblem.
Phil Lipton #15140 millnphil@yahoo.com

I would double check my timing. I also had a sticking slide on the vacuum advance. The octane selector was worn a little. I used white grease on the slide.

Phil, not me , i never said anything about a 3/8" spacer.?? Did I ?

But you would have to adapt the 6 blade *vintage air* 6 blade steel fan to your 35-36 chev water pump bolt pattern. I know I looked at the 33 master motor that came in my 35 roadster and figured it could be engineered to work by making an adaptor too the stock water pump.

An easier modification would be a 6 volt electric fan mounted in front or rad as a pusher or behind rad as a puller.

Check with THE FILLING STATION in oregon to see if they can help you.

mike

>> > Back in the late 70's my 35 std coupe was always
> overheating
> > as soon as i slowed down. I had the rad shop block off
> the
> > top filler and put a 45 degree soldered neck on the
> inside i
> > could pressurize with a 5 pound cap.
> > I also changed the thermostat to a 190 degrees. Still
> wasn;t
> > right.
> >
> > A friend gave me a 6 blade steel fan at 17 " long off a
> 383
> > chrysler motor that was air conditioned and the fan was
> a
> > NON clutch fan mount. After a lot of filing of the
> holes to
> > match the early chevy pattern , that immediately solved
> the
> > problem of overheating.
> >
> > Then unfortunately one day in late 80's driving down
> the
> > expressway the large bolt and washer came out of the
> > harmonic balencer, hit the fan at speed putting 2
> walnut
> > size dents in my side panels. The worst tho was the
> balancer
> > came forward on the crankshaft snout and bent the fan
> in
> > half and ripping my radiator core wide open.
> >
> > After replacing the radiator core with a new one, i
> could
> > not find one of those fans again . Even tho there was a
> 5
> > digit number stamped into the fan center they could not
> get
> > me one.
> >
> > I went to a local speed shop and bought one of those
> > aluminum flexi fans that are supposed to be so
> wonderful,
> > absolute waste of $$$$, took it off and got the even
> larger
> > blades with supposedly more cooling ability. Car was
> > overheating at 230 sitting in garage at idle !!! Now i
> was
> > getting frustrated BIG TIME.
> >
> > I took the bent steel mopar fan put it in the vice and
> > straightened the 6 blades and installed it back on the
> car,
> > VOILA, NO MORE OVERHEATING. I was wiping the dust off
> the
> > paint standing in front of the radiator using a real
> cloth
> > diapher, i let it straighten out to let the dust fall
> out
> > and much to my amazement the cloth diaper got sucked
> towards
> > my grill mesh and held there all on its own at 750 rpm.
> I
> > repeated this 6 times and each time same result.
> Temperature
> > was running at a steady 180 degrees ( i also have a
> 2nd
> > mechanical temp guage hooked up ) .
> >
> > With my big discovery I take the aluminum big curve fan
> and
> > re-install it. Cloth diaper falls to the ground each
> time,
> > zero suction, heat temp goes up to 220 at idle.
> >
> > Because the fan had been badly bent it would be
> completely
> > stupid to put that steel fan back on a car, never get
> it
> > straight and balenced again. So i went to hemmings
> motor
> > news and placed a wanted ad with a call me collect if
> you
> > have one, for the 17" long mopar fan with the 5 stamped
> in
> > numbers. I got a call and bought it from wisconsin i
> > believe.
> >
> > I set up a couple of saw horses in backyard and
> whitteled
> > down the end of a wood shaft and rammed it in the water
> pump
> > mounting center hole and proceeded to paint the fan on
> both
> > sides with a spray bomb. While slowly spinning the fan
> on
> > the saw horses to make sure that i have coveered all
> the
> > primered areas , i could feel the draft from the fan on
> my
> > hands. I spun it faster and it really was pulling air
> across
> > my hands............case closed .
> >
> > vintage air in houston texas USA makes a steel
> replacement 6
> > blade fan in 17" long # 32917-VUF with a 2"
> pitch.....one
> > inch forward pitch to blades and one inch backwards. To
> run
> > it on your motor you will also need a fan spacer
> installed
> > about 3/8--1/2" thick so the fan does not hit your
> rubber
> > fan belt. It will also clear your lower radiator hose
> too
> > waterpump. You can see the fan at link below but you
> need an
> > adobe reader program to view it ?

okay, i said that , did not remember it. All i did is in that post.
mike

My feeling is,they designed and built them successfully using a 4 blade fan.Why change it?I think you haven't found the true problem yet.

My 1934 had the original radiator and 4 blade fan. It would run at 190 in 90 Deg. weather and get up to 200 in long 4th of July prades but never boiled over or lost coolant. I ran a 160 theremo. and 50/50 antifreeze mix.

Charlie

I feel bad; I didn't post your original post to harrass you, I was only hoping to jog ypur memory as to what you used for a spacer. Now that I have a home-made recovery system on my '35 Std and fabricated a more effective seal for the rad cap, my car operates at 180deg on a 90deg day. The guage rises a bit when idling at a light, but comes back down when in motion. I
just get very uncomfortable seeing the guage nudging 200deg. I
don't want to crack a head or blow a gasket. As long as it stays around 180deg I'm comfortable with it! Keping the top rad tank full seems to help a lot, too. On a 90deg day at idle the guage would go all the way up; when I placed a pedestal fan
in front the rad, the temp would come right down, so I suspected and air flow problem.

main thing is Phil, your car is now operating properly as it should. See if you can find a 160 thermostat and install that.

At one point i was responding to so many posts, i couldn't keep track of them all.

mike