VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - GENERAL Body - Sheet Metal, Paint & Wood Painting frames and suspension parts

I would like to have a general discussion on painting procedures and products used by our hobbyists that have no access to off-frame restoration techniques, nor little to no metal painting experience. Parts of my advice may be a little preachy, but it is because I think safety is very important!

The first step in any work is to come up with a general overall plan, and budget. What do you want to accomplish by painting your frame? Is it looks, or rust prevention you want? What do you want to paint? What color/colors do you want to use? Generally, a black satin finish is used on frame and suspension parts, but this is your car and you can make the finish color and paint sheen whatever you want.

Because I have a large compressor, I take my car outside and spend hours blowing out the frame and areas underneath the car. If I plan on painting the car bottom, I even remove the gas tank, and having the engine/transmission out is another plus. I also put a good plastic bag with a rubber band on it over the end of the drive shaft and cover the ends of brake lines, and the fuel lines if they are open. I poke around in every cavity and every hole in the frame and body to remove all the debris that has accumulated through the years (mud, animal nesting material, bones, walnut shells, and whatever you can imagine can be found there!!!). I do this on a windy day so I am only minimally exposed to the dust. I wear a good shop mask for this and I still usually come up with a respiratory infection. Some bad stuff ends up in our frames after 60 years of road, and barn storage, and outdoor exposure. Don't take lightly what is in the dust you are blowing out of your frame.

This is something done first so you are eliminating potential areas of further rust, areas of obnoxious odors, and finding all the weaknesses in your frame. You would be surprised at all the supposedly solid areas of your frame that a screwdriver pokes right through. I would even remove at least a couple of the front A Arm Inner shaft bolts to assess the condition of the cross member bolt holes. Pay especially attention to the condition of the front bottom of the cross member and the bottoms of all frame brace and the transmission support. I even remove all the bolts attaching the body to the frame. This allows the debris to flow out the frame easier and the bolts and body mounting pads and even badly rusted shims should be replaced. Always remember that there are certain safety considerations that must be a priority. Why put thousands of dollars and hundreds of hours into repairs, without having certain basic safety features insured like the best new bolts holding the body to the frame?

At this point you can decide if this is a frame worth spending any time painting/cleaning/repairing or is it time to plan to find another frame. Do not even think of using your water hose to clean out your frame. If you don't have a compressor, then consider finding someone who might clean out your frame with theirs.

Next let’s discuss cleanup procedures for preparing the metal to paint. No matter what way you apply the paint or product you use cleaning the paint surface must be meticulouslydone. No surface is clean enough until you can wipe the surface with a clean rag soaked in lacquer thinner and no residue comes off. Do not worry about cleaning the whole surface at once unless you are using a wire wheel on a drill, which tends to throw dust and grime.

There is nothing wrong with dividing your job into separate areas and cleaning and painting them as you have the time and interest. Frame cleanup is basically done on your back and extremely tedious. Reward yourself by painting what you have done so you can see the results. Keep your radio tuned to a favorite station.

Because the cleanup is done under the car, usually on your back, elevating the car to a good working height is important. I use only truck jacks. Getting under a car held by a car jack is just too risky. Car jacks tend to be light weight and extend to a height that is precarious for you and not the best level for convenient work. A set of truck jacks are safer and raise your work area considerably more. I have actually sat under my car working on its body with my truck jacks installed. I also leave my wheels on the car as a further safety measure, and try to have a backup plan for a jack that might fail. A cell phone within reach also isn’t a bad idea?

I like to clean my surfaces off the least messy way, a lot of the time that is not the most timely way. I put cardboard under the area I want to work on to catch all debris and chemical spills. I tend to vacuum my mess off the cardboard rather than circulate the dust with a broom, and keep my shop well ventilated. I figure out a way to not trap the odors in my work area. A floor fan is a must for me. I place it behind the work area I am working in drawing the contaminated air away from me and the fresh air towards me.

When using strong chemicals like lacquer, I wear special chemically resistant gloves and a chemical respirator. Most of the time I wear gloves for whatever I am doing on my cars. I am not going to miss all the fun I am having to deal with an infected cut, etc. By the way have you had a tetanus shot lately?

Part two of this topic will cover cleaning methods and painting procedures. It will be in a separate post so others may point out their experience with this topic. My goal is to provide those doing this work the first time a list of things to consider before they tackle this part of restoration work.

Thanks, and good luck, Mike


This picture shows my front frame and suspension on my 41. The frame is the last area that needs restoration. From the transmission brace back is finished. The cross member needs to be replaced because of extreme damage to the holes for the A Arms inner shafts. I have another cross member in perfect condition to replace it. However, I decided to replace the whole frame. All of the suspension parts are new and painted to my liking.


Damaged inner shaft bolt holes on cross member. A friend did a lot of welding on the cross member to make it temporarily serviceable.


A new frame I got from an ebay bid. Cost me $100 dollars and $400 to drive to Wisconsin to pick it up. The frame included all the rear/front suspension, including the wheels. The two days with the friend driving to pick it up was priceless. The frame is sand blasted and painted. The frame was in perfect condition from Oklahoma. The guy was hotrodding the car!!!


Part of the restored area behind the transmission support. I did the work over 5 years ago.



Gloves that I use for working on my car.


Tools I made out of transmission and brake lines that I attach to my spray gun. I also make up a lot of clothes hanger wire for probing the inside of the frame.


Debris I have taken out of frames.


Truck jack stands--the most important safety device in my garage. Next in line is a couple working, easily assessable, fire extinguishers.