VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1937-1945 Universal Joint

Hi,
today i removed my gear box. I wonder the U-Joint is with bushes not with Needle Bearings? Is that´s correct?
The drive shaft has much clearance because the bushes are excessively worn and I mean they are not high enough. Check it here

The U-joint Repair Kit on Filling is with Needle Bearings?


The german text on the pictures says,
"too much Clearance, that should not be o.k" and
"sitting inside too deep and has rejected the bushing"

The 1940-1941 and 1942 had roller bearings. The 1946 -1954 had bushings. Bushings were available for the 1940-1942 joint - for heavy duty service. A new replacement joint would have came with bushings.
The 1940-1942 heavy duty bushings are not the same size as the 1946 and up bushings.

But Bearings are much better than bushings, or not? What do you think about the clearance on the first picture?

first pictures show it is wore out ! lottsa vibration going on when driving . you need new parts badly . i think bearings might be better , but anything you get new ( parts ) is going to be a huge improvement . frank

I would be suspicious that the first bushing in the carrier tube for the drive shaft is also bad. All the vibration from the universal joint failing and the transmission gears wear could have easily damaged this bushing. We have discussed replacing it with an Oakie Bushing in past Chevy chat topics on our forum or the 46-48 forum. You can do an Advanced Search to see what has been posted. I see it as good advice if you are doing work in this area? If you don't you may still feel vibration in the floor of the car after all your work!! Good luck, Mike

P.S. I don't know how much you are going to pay for shipping of parts for your transmission repair but you may want to get a new rebuilt transmission from the company that rebuilds them from Chevys of the 40's.

Ebay item 220838765387

Chev Nut: That was some interesting information about what models used roller bearings vs. what models used bushings. Thanks for posting that very useful information!

I have a box somewhere that has a bunch of aftermarket repair kits for the u-joints. If I remember it converts from needle bearings to bushings. If any one is interested I will look them up to be sure.

37blue has ok-ed this type of post.

https://vccachat.org/ubbthreads.php/topics/267438#Post267438

Hard to believe isn't it.

The ebay ad was to show that someone has listed that part as the proper part for the year models listed. It could or could not be correct. At least he knows where to get that part if he chooses to go in that direction. I think you knew that.

Complain to 37blue.

Not really because you have been posting links to eBay sales in various forums for a long time.

Yes, I and others have understood how eBay ads can help out the poster with his technical question and many of us have supplied links to eBay ads (including 37blue) because the ads are helpful, but you somehow had an issue with doing so in the Truck forum.






Now, back to the topic: Regarding the conversion kits, I might have some information on that too so I will check to see what I have.

I thought that was not allowed.One of the moderators are quick to point out about postings being in the wrong place. I guess 37 blue changed all that. In fact he says its always been that way.I ask Bill about 37blues posting and if it in fact was ok to do something like that..he never answered.

37 blue seems to know much more about what is and what is not correct. It's interesting to learn from him. I try to look at all his postings, which is not hard to do since he rarely posts.

Stop wrecking this thread. Keep on-topic.

Go back and read Alligators original post -- and only respond in such a way to ASSIST him. Even if that includes adding a link to a current eBay part. But, it MUST relate to the primary topic.

As far as I'm concerned, both of you broke the rules.
Get Back On Topic.

So what are the chances that a repair kit, I would think consisting of mainly bushings, would fix this U joint? I would think the rest of the assembly is badly worn too.

Hmm, thats right, but i dont know what i need for a restauration. The U-joint i´ve bought by Filling. I´ve found driveshaft bushing V-102, is this the same like Oakie Bushing With Seal Item # 3652328B from Chevs40? i think it will fits here, but how? What shall i do with this half shell?


i need this seal, too



Oakie Bushing?



I got much parts from filling and i will extend my order, before shipping?! Please help me for the right parts.

Many thanks

Andre,
In the last three pictures you have posted. The first shows the front seal for the carrier of the drive shaft. This round tube has a bushing behind it that you can not see. Both the seal and the bushing are replaced by using an Oakie Bushing (Chevs of the 40's part number 3652328B) which comes with a new seal, so you do not need Chevs.. part number 3691457. All you could care to know about Oakie Bushings is explained under previous posts on the topic using the "Advanced Search" topic "Oakie." It appears from this picture that the seal is rusted and dry so it was probably not getting proper lubrication. I wonder if most/all of your problems were caused by poor lubrication (wrong type or not enough)?

In the last two pictures you are looking at the torque tube cap. It has an orange gasket/seal in it. When rebuilding this area you will need to order a Torque Tube Ball Seal Kit from Chevs of the 40's part number 3723490. You will also need the drive shaft bushing puller. This tool allows you to get the old bushing out. I hope you have a copy of Chevs of the 40's paper catalog. It has wonderful assembly pictures that help with the correct names of the parts. If you needed a new U-joint, Torque Tube Kit, Oakie Bushing, or an Oakie Bushing Drive Shaft Bushing Puller you would find them all well pictured on the same page of their parts catalog. This is very helpful for the novice or someone less fluent in English!!! The Filling Station and Chevs of the 40's also have web sites listing all of their parts, however they do not have assembly illustrations on the web sites. The Filing Station has technical support articles on their web site the one on Torque Tubes is a good one. Here is its link https://www.fillingstation.com/articles/ujoints.htm. It talks about universal joint failure. Hope this helps out a little. Good luck, Mike

P.S. If you are confused using our Advanced Search Index of posts let me know. Perhaps I can explain it for you. Many of us struggle trying to use it! Stefan is also an excellent resource.

http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/parts/1929_41/41cp142.html


Does this help?

Yes, I saw this at chevs and read the instruction, too. I wonder the v-102 Oaki from Filling has a Thread??
You are right, i´ve had much oil leakage at the bottom of the car and there was not enough oil in the transmission. I´ve got the car last year and know I must do the restauration part for part. Learning and understanding ;-)
o.k. that’s great, my brother in law bought the Transmission Gasket Set, 3-Speed
3764394 times ago. Think there is 3723490 inside. Do I replace the orange gasket with the cork gasket? Where do I place the small cork gasket?
Catalog i have from 2008 + parts catalog + manual. The articeles I will check. Bushing puller I have at work.
I think i will test this, with using ”˜oakie ”˜ I mean. Yes, Stefan is very helpful, thanks.

Somebody correct me if I am wrong but there should not be a seal inside the front of the torque tube. That would cause the bushings to run dry. There should be a seal behind the second bushing back which is the driveshaft bushing.

I haven't seen an orange seal like that before. Is that some kind of alternative to the felt/cork seal?

Andre,
In your second and third pictures the orange seal is not a standard seal, but rather a made to fit replacement. You can see in the picture that it has been cut to fit. The original seal and those sold by Chevs of the 40's etc. are made of cork. The made up seal could have worked just fine at controlling transmission leaks from that location???

In your first picture you can see the bearing rusted and dry, old216 is right, I was wrong, it is not the seal you are seeing but rather the bushing, and if it was the seal it would cause the bearing to not get any oil from the transmission. The seal is behind two inner bearings (see the assembly picture in the Chevs of the 40's part catalog about page 103) and if it goes bad then the transmission oil runs past the seal and into the rear housing of the axle. It is easy to see if this has happened. All you need to do is remove the fluid plug from the differential housing and fluid will come running out. My seal was so bad that I accumulated a pint of extra fluid in my housing in about a year of driving (500 miles). The Oakie Bushing replaces the first bushing with a new seal and bushing. The second bushing and seal are not removed with the puller. The pictures below shows part of the diagram from Chevs of the 40's, the next shows my Oakie bushing installed in my 41 the last the cork gasket for the torque tube cap. It is not easy to install the Oakie Bushing and remove the old bushing for most of us so I am glad that you have decided to read up on our old posts on this topic. Good luck, Mike

P.S. I hate to bring up another topic but you should also make sure your motor mounts and transmission mounts are in good condition. They can also cause transmission problems especially if they are missing or in bad condition. If you are working in this area you should be checking this out as well as the condition of your flywheel, clutch, throwout bearing, and pressure plate. You do not want to return to this area looking for other problems in the future!!!

Andre,

I found a real good group of postings in the 1946-48 Forum on Oakie Bushings. It was discussed in November of 2012. It is on page 3 of the 46-48 posts. The topic is "transmission answers." The date was November 6, 2012. Good luck, Mike

P.S. This is something I posted awhile back:

The new Oakie bearing can be a problem to install because you are worried about damaging the end of the drive shaft. I use an old universal joint to keep from damaging it. The universal joint protects the teeth on the drive shaft as you are hammering in the Oakie bushing. I start by using a two by four to protect the Oakie bushing as you hammer on it then shift to the universal joint when I get the bushing started in the differential's tube. You also do need to be able to give things a good hit with a large hammer so having the car on a hoist is favorable to laying on your back and trying to hammer in the bushing.

I use truck jack stands when doing any work on my car. They are heavy duty and I can get the car about 30 inches off the ground. At that height you can get enough room to swing a small maul and drive in the bushing. I also grease the outer diameter of the Oakie bushing before driving it in.
_________________________

Several guys, including myself, put the oakie in the freezer for a couple of hours before trying to install the oakie. (make sure the correct end goes in first)several have made that mistake.


http://www.chevsofthe40s.com/detail/13138/Chevrolet_Tool_Bushing_Puller_For_Driveline.html

I think you'll need this.

So what is the story of the supply of Oakie bushings. Do the suppliers have them in stock now or not?

Not sure. When I was in the market eveyone listed them but no one actually had them in stock. I bought several off ebay and either resold them or gave them away. I have one now for an old chevy but it is a few thousandths off from what the fillingstation says is correct.It's new but, what it fits is unclear. I don't think I'd ever do the oakie bushing again without having a lift for the old chevy. If you're laying on concrete and trying to beat it in...good luck.

BTW..when the rear drivetrain is uncoupled from the transmission it might have some downforce pressure from the driveshaft. Don't let it spring downward on you. Nice to have a jackstand under the shaft. I had a hard time getting the nuts started on the u-bolts. Tight squeeze unless you have small fingers..grin See 2nd photo from the top.

@mike - are you shure that is a bearing/bushing. For me it seems to be a seal. You can see the sealing lip?!


Anyway, i see on the assambly picture how it should be. The two cork seals - small for the screw cap and big for the torque tube are in the gasket package.
New Topic is no problem. I will do that right NOW, because i had much vibrations, when driving the car over 50 Mph.
as you see, there is much work to do ;-)
I will check the postings, thanks.

From the photos it sure looks to me that the ball joint was packed with a lot of grease (probsbly because the oil leaks wouldn't stop). This is a sure recipe for bearing failure in short order. A simple ball seal kit probably would have saved hundreds of dollars in parts plus many hours of messy awkward labour unless you have a hoist.