VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1933-1936 still have overheating problems with my 34 chev

Hi there,
despite fitting a recovery tank, my chev overheats within 4 mins and the fluid bubbles out of the overflow tank big time.

I thought that maybe the tank was mounted to low for the natural process of vacuum to occur and suck the fluid back into the radiator.

So today, I remounted the tank on the bulkhead and reconnected the hoses.

Started up the beast and behold, within 4 mins it boiled and spued out the fluid from the overflow tank all over the engine...bugger.....

The engine was chemically cleaned during the engine rebuild (18 years ago) and the radiator was also renewed at the same time (new) so I am now leaning to the theory that the rad is blocked and the water is not being allowed to circulate?

What is your opinion on this matter?

I may have to remove the rad and have it cleaned out,now that is one very big job, remove headlights, unbolt guard bolts and many radiator cowl bolts and eventually lift out the rad core...I estimate at least a day and running into the next. Same for replacement.......OMG how did I get into all this in the first place?

as for the oil leaks see my next post.

Peter

Do you have the correct thermostat in this engine ?

You should be able to see fluid flow across the top of the radiator thru the rad cap hole. Can you ?

Open & remove the rad cap and let the motor run, its possible you have air trapped in the block or thermostat is not opening. Look to see in the water if your getting a lot of air bubbles.

The check for the thermostat function is too remove it and boil some water on the stove and place the stat into the water using needle nose pliars and watch to see if it opens and remove it and watch it close. Repeat to make sure.

mike

Many issues can cause overheating, but in your case I would bet on a stuck or defective thermostat. As a test, remove the upper outlet on the front of the motor and remove the thermostat. Clean the surfaces an cut yourself a cardbord gasket and reassemble. Replace the coolant and fire it up.

If this solves your problem, I recomend a new thermostat (180 deg.) and prior to installation drill a 1/8" hole in the mounting flange just inside the mounting gasket area. This allows the air bubble to pass from the top of the engine and also allows the thermostat to "see" what the engine is doing during warm up due to the trickle of coolant through the 1/8" bypass hole.
Good Luck !!
Jerry

Mike and Jerry

Peter,

After checking the thermostat without finding the problem, I suggest the following:

a. Check that the bottom hose is not collapsing .

b. While the thermostat is out, remove the top hose and fill with water. Start up to check for bubbles indicating one of the following:

1. Cracked head
2. Cracked block
3. Bad head gasket

c. Check with the radiator full of water. Rev up the engine, the water should not overrun (until it heats up) because the radiator capacity to take the water should be greater than the water pump can supply it.

d. Take both the bottom and top radiator hoses off. Use a garden hose to fill the radiator. The water should go out as fast as it comes in. Similar to "c" above. Now, put your hand over the bottom outlet and let it fill up. When full, take your hand off the water should spring out with a good gush of about 5-6 inches. Listen for any sucking sounds coming from the top of the radiator. Such sounds will be produced by partially stopped up flues.

e. If any of the radiator checks indicate trouble, then take it out and have it boiled and rodded. That means that the top tank is taken off and the core boiled, and with water running up through the core a flat rod (similar to steel strapping material) is run down through each flue to get it cleared up. Any competent radiator shop should be able to do it. If you end up with the radiator having a bunch of tiny pin holes on the flues, just add a little (half-tube) of Solder Seal.

f. Clean out the block via water down the top inlet and blowing compressed air back up through the blocks drain plug. You'll be suprised as to what amount of rust will come out.

Keep in touch and let us know how the above checks work for you.

Good luck,
Charlie

BTW: The problem is not in your overflow reservoir.

If the car has the original type lower hose it can not collapse as it consists of two short pieces of rubber hose with a metal elbow in between.
I would not run a 180 thermostat in a 1934, a 160 is just fine.
I wouls suspect the radiator core is plugged with rust.
Is the baffle in the block behind the water pump?

Thank you ALL for you comprehensive reply's.

Firstly I removed the thermostat earlier in the year for testing in boiling water and it opened and shut.
I did not replace it because I live in a tropical zone and consider that it is not really needed!
2 months ago I used a hight quality radiator cleaner that had to be run in the engine for 30 mins and then drained. The water was clear an clean.
I am now leaning to the fact that the core is blocked with 18 years of corrosion, despite it being a new install.
I noticed that the water does move across the top of the rad, so conclude that the pump vanes are indeed working and moving water.

Is there a way of removing the radiator without dismantling the front of the car, such as headlights, both front guard attachments, and many other nuts and bolts that hold the grill cowl to the rad?

I think that I will have to bite the bullet and go for gold, undo everything and extract the radiator and have it rodded?

thank you ALL for your ideas and support

Peter

.

****I did not replace it because I live in a tropical zone and consider that it is not really needed!****

thank you ALL for your ideas and support

Peter
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You need to run a thermostat in your car.....160. You need to understand what the thermostat is in there for and how it functions within your cooling system.

Not running a thermostat is just plain dumb.!

mike

I agree a thermostat is a good idea, but not sure if they were standard original equipment. I am of the opinion that without it the temp should be cooler and that's what I experienced when I did not have one in my 32. The thermostats purpose is to maintain a constant and optimal heat range that promotes the best efficiency from the engine.

My all original 1932 Special Sedan came from the factory without a thermostat and after 80 years with the original radiator the car runs very cool in the summer. Most of the time the temp. gauge will not even get up to "Normal".

If the water in the system is allowed to just keep circulating and never allowed to be cooled down, then the motor will overheat if insufficient air is not passing thru the radiator as the water is moving down from top to bottom.

The thermostat keeps the water in the motor until it has reached the specified temperature of the thermostat (160 ?) and at which point it opens allowing the heated water ( 160 ) to move to the radiator. When the water temperature in the motor is sensed by the thermostat to be less than the 160 the thermostat closes keeping the water inside the motor until it again reaches 160 degress.

In the meantime the radiator takes the 160 degree water and with airflow and the fan removes about 30 dregrees temperature from the water as it moves down the radiator, and gets ready to re-enter the motor, where the cycle is repeated.

IF the thermostat is not present in the system, there is nothing to stop the constant flow of the water around and around , it never properly get cooled and eventually comes to a boil at 212 degrees. From there the temperature just keeps rising.

A pressurised system with a radiator cap will raise the boiling point of water by 3 degrees for every pound of pressure. 12 pound cap X 3 degrees = 36 degrees + 212 water boiling point = 248.

This is why thermostats and pressurised systems were brought into use back in the day and are still used today because the no thermostat, no pressurised system is/was not a good system. The guy with the properly functioning cooling system, is never the guy on the side of the road on the old car tour, in 95 degrees outside heat.

mike

The early six-cylinder cars did not come with a thermostat as standard equipment from the factory. A thermostat could be ordered for cars in cold climates. Another type of thermostat was available if an accessory heater was installed. According to the parts book, the thermostat was 145 degrees.

One thing to keep in mind that on the early six-cylinder engines there were no water jackets in the engine block so many of the earlier six-cylinder cars tended to heat up over the years, therefore a thermostat may or may not solve your heating issue. I know on my '32 it runs cold so there is absolutely no need to run a thermostat to make the car run hotter....and possibly cause an overheating problem. However, having said that, on some early Chevrolets installing a thermostat has actually made them run cooler.

Hi there Jerry,
I like that idea of the 1/8th hole and will try it if I install a thermostat....I have never heard of that before, and it has a smell of rocket science to it.

To me, a simple country boy,
thermostats are to control the water temperature when starting the vehicle from cold.

It holds the water system in a closed state until a predetermined temperature releases the flow of the coolant into the system, to then flow and conduct heat away from the water jacket and radiator. Thats is purpose...

By not having a thermostat, the water just flows as normal, rising with the heat generated and falling down through the radiator, being cooled by airflow through the radiator and back into the engine. Thats the end of the process...

If the downward flow is not constant ( blocked tubes) the water will stall and overheat, thus causing my problems (just a guess).
Time will tell what it is, I will keep you posted.

Peter

Your explanation is spot on!

As long as the laws of thermodynamics are not repealed the heat transfer process will be as described. Heat transfer is when heat is transferred from a hotter body (or surface) to cooler one. When dealing with liquids or gas (except for very high flow rates that are not within the capability of an auto water pump) the transfer rate is directly proportional to the heat differential and flow rate (volume and speed).

We be interesting to find what Peter discovers is the source of his overheating and what the fix is.

mike

Never had a cooling problem with my 32 without the thermostat and had it on several 6 cyl tours that averaged around 500 miles in 5 days. The gauge hardly moved off the cold reading and yes it is/was working correctly. I added a thermostat as with the original carb was only getting about 10 mpg and was hoping that would help-which it might have but not enough to be noticeable. I may be incorrect but I'm of the opinion the thermostat is fully open at its designed setting but the opening varies with the temp otherwise it would continualy open and close, thus some manufacturers refer to it as a "water regulator". I don't think the water pump capacity is sufficient enough to cause overheating due to high flow thru the radiator, at least it never did on my car. This system is fairly simple as it has coolant- a pump for circulation and a radiator for heat transfer. If the pump is working properly then blockage is the culprit. The next step is to determine where the blockage is-could be the radiator or the engine. Discussions of later systems will not help solve his problem, although interesting.

With everything being correct In most cases the water pump is capable of moving more coolant than most completely clean radiators are capable of flowing. The thermostat further restricts the flow up to predetermined temperature to provide quicker warm up and then is only there for the ride.
Tony

Thanks you Mike for your very comprehensive reply's, I do appreciate you input and advice as do many others in this forum.
I am at a quandary as who to follow and will try many ideas.

My main one now is to probably have the radiator cleaned in all respects and I will definitely let you all know via feedback what the solution is..........if I ever find one
(in the fullness of time Minister)

regards
Peter

Peter.........over heating and finding the cause is a multi step process of elimination as voiced by myself and others with possible solutions.

To get rad out you need to : remove hood assy, headlights & headlight bars as units, rad shell, rad support rod from firewall, top and bottom rad hoses.

Hardest part is getting the radiator side mounting 2 bolts out. Its not necessary to remove fenders or bumper.

You might also have to consider ***back flushing with water pressure *** the actual motor itself thru the thermostat or top outlet.

Your rad shop should be able to identify if your getting full flow without having to take top rad tank off . They will also advise you if your louvers/fins are making full contact with the tubes to remove the heat.

Its almost full summer time there now and nice time to be out putting around in car not thrashing away in hot summer temps.

Let us know what the fix is.

mike

howdy guys

one thing i didn't see mentioned here is that if your engine is out of time it will over heat.i had this problem when i first put my 1935 truck engine together and fired it up.
i have been running now with no thermostat all summer and truck
runs at about 140 degrees.all though i have read that 160 to 180
the engine smooths out and runs better,and i beleave this.
but if i had to guess, you are out of time and your exhaust valves are not letting all exhaust gases out. this will heat you right up.did you mess with the distributor lately???

jeff korner
southeast indiana

My 31 Chev was overheating and i tried everything. I finally got my own torque wrench and retightened the head. That did it. It runs cooler like it is supposed to. Just sayin'.....

Thanks, that sounds like a good place to start...!

Hi there Jeff

A neighbour mentioned the very same thing, if it is too far advanced it will over heat very quickly.
Before doing anything with the radiator I am going to check the timing. It has not been done in 16 years, since the engine was fully rebuilt and balanced.
I think that it can only be static timed from memory.
Using the aperture in the bell housing to display the pointer and the timing marks on the flywheel, and adjusting the distributor to just open the points, method. I dont think it has marks on the crankshaft pulley at the front for use with a timing light?
I will investigate further today.

Peter

hello again

on the ring gear fly wheel there should be a round ball beiring
looking mark that you line up with the pointer sticking out in
the hole in the bell houseing.
turn the engine over with the fan until the pointer points to the ball beiring ,then take the distributor cap off and see if your rotor is pointed at the number one fireing position.if not it's probably off another full turn,so make another full turn till ball shows up again.
i don't know if it is possible for the distributor or the timing chain to jump a gear and still even run but this may have happened maybe one or the other,just a thought.
i hope it's timing = easy fix.

jeff korner
southeast indiana

Peter
The timing is only done through the front of the bellhousing with the "ball" insert. The timing light will work on this set up and is much easier than a lot of alternative methods.

Tony

Hi peter,
Can't say I had overheating after 4 minutes but I had the same problem with over heating and blowing water out.
1. Had radiator back flushed by radiator specialist still had problem.
2.removed 180 deg thermostat and replaced with 160 deg may have helped.
3. Pulled out tap in back of block and shoved a piece of wire up the hole dislodged a heap of rust. Flushed block . May have helped.
4. The main problem I had was a leak in the rear welsh plug i believe this was allowing air to be sucked into the cooling system then blowing out the overflow. The leak seamed to get progressivaly worse over time, i think the coolant caused the acceleration of the corrosion. I used some leak sealer which stopped the leak and the car has run 10 deg cooler since . No more overheating and filling up after every run.
I think the160 deg thermostat helps as the 180 deg seemed to allow the motor to get to hot and then struggle to cool. Prior to my attempts motor used to run at about 190 deg and up to 212 deg, now sits on 180 or less.
Hope this helps. ( ps 1937 year model).

Hi there all,
thank you all for your input and advice.
yesterday I wanted to checked out the timing.
I removed the plugs and all were very sooty, I know where the idle screw is but am not sure how to adjust the mixture?

Next I checked the points, after reading the workshop manual.
they were within specification.

I then wanted to check the bell housing aperture and pointer timing with a timing light but then realised that I still had the sump removed, so will do that when I replace it today.
Thats the update so far.
any info on the mixture adjustment would be most helpful...

Peter

In addition to adjusting the mixture screw also check the air cleaner to be sure it is not restricted.Turning the mixture screw to the right should lean out the mixture and to the left enrich it. as you have black sooty plugs the mixture is too rich so leaning out will be necessary. With a little practice you will be able to tell from the sound of the engine when it is right.After adjusting the mixture you may also have to re-adjust the idle speed.

Just remember that adjusting the air dilution only affects the idle and low speed mixture. After ~15 mph the idle circuit is not functional.

so where is the mixture screw for adjustment? My carbie has a slow running screw that is easy to see and get to, but cant see any other screws. Is it on the btm of the carbie?
Peter

The idle adjustment is the only one on a W-1. All it does it increase the amount of dilution air as it is screwed out. That both reduces the flow of gas from the float bowl and richness of the mixture. As posted above it has no effect above ~15 mph.

So Peter, before you start ripping the radiator out and spending a bunch of $$$$$$ on rodding the tubes, power flushing, back flushing ect.

Sounds like you should check for the torque, done in correct sequence on the head bolts and NOT exceed the specifications. A leaking cylinder head gasket will cause overheating quickly.

Adjust the carburetor properly and get the engine running properly and too specifications.

Have enough water in the top radiator tank so that you can see into the top of the tank and with a light watch the coolent flow for bubbles. Bubbles can indicate a leaking cyl head gasket. There is also a liquid you can put into the water and if exhaust gases are present thru a leak, it will change the colour of the water.

Ask for the liquid at an auto parts seller or engine rebuilder or radiator shop ?

mike lynch

Hi there Mike,
thanks for the info.
I will try your suggestions
Peter

So infact Chipper, you are saying that my carbie has NO mixture adjustment? do I have to put up with sooty plugs and a super rich mixture?
Peter

The answer is probably no, you don't have to put up with the over rich mixture. It requires replacement of internal parts. Probably by someone that has experience or the exact specifications so they can make sure that all internal parts and metering holes are correct. If that carburetor can not be fixed, then replacement may be required.

Before any major carburetor repairs are considered, first make sure that the ignition system is up to snuff. Timing, weak spark, cold plugs are all potential causes of incomplete combustion which produces carbon instead of power. Low compression is also a contributing factor in incomplete combustion. Then there is restriction in the exhaust system.

hi there,
thanks Chipper for the suggestions.
The carbie is NOS from a later model, a 39 I think it says on the box.
I will start by checking the timing, now that the sump in back on.Then check the head-bolts and adjust the tappets and distributor if needed. If all are well, and the overheating still occurs, I will then move to the radiator and have it checked for blockage.
Will keep you updated in due course.
Peter

Update:
today I checked the timing via the pointer and ball bearing embedded in the flywheel.
It was well advanced.

I moved the distributor to rectify the situation and immediately the engine ran sweetly. It started on the first push of the button.

I then torqued the head bolts to 50 ft lbs and all bolts moved at least 1/2 a turn.
I read the workshop manual and it says to run the engine to heat up the system.

I then realised that I had not adjusted tappets on a 6 cylinder for over 18 years and had forgotten what is the procedure? so I stopped for the time being, and will have to find out what to do.

I seem to remember do number 1 when number six is closed, but that is a very distant memory......
any suggestions on the matter would be most appreciated.
BTW. it did not boil over immediately, but became hot because the vehicle was stationary.But did not boil.

Peter

To adjust the valves it is best done with the engine running. Make sure the engine is at operating temperature and set the idle as slow as you can keep it running. Identify the intake valves. Use a feeler gauge to set them so the gauge will go in but is hard to move except when there is no pressure on the gauge. When you have set the intake, change gauges and set the exhaust valves.

If you make an error let it be on the too loose side. Too tight could result in burning the valves.

The values to set the valves will be found in your repair manual.

Peter
You had the right idea for doing valves not running, adjust the valves on the cylinder directly opposite where the rotor button is pointing.
Ray's idea of adjusting while the engine is running is just as good but it takes practice to get it right.
Tony

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Your now getting there, torque the cylinder head bolts to what they should be for 1/2 " ?? 75 pounds in the correct sequence. Take them to 65 pounds and then go around again to the final 75 foot pounds.

Peter have a look into the top of the radiator fill and see if your engine is producing exhaust gas bubbles into the water/antifreeze ? There should not be any bubbles.

One step at a time.

mike lynch

Mike:
I think that I am now making progress.
Prior to checking the timing, I removed all the plugs and they were very black and sooty, the mixture is too rich, maybe the timing change will make a difference now?

I mention this because if the head gasket was leaking oil into the water, you said that the plug would be super clean. This is obviously not my case (I hope).
So air is getting into the system somewhere?

I did notice bubbles in the radiator and previously had tightened the gland nut on the water pump, thinking that it was sucking air in at that point!

Peter

Air bubbles in the radiator and overheating can also indicate a cracked cylinder head.

===================================================

If the cylinder head is cracked it will allow water/antifreeze to seep into the piston area.

If the cylinder head gasket only is leaking , when running it will also allow exhaust gases to enter the water/antifreeze mixture and create bubbles in your water.

You need to figure out exactly what your problem is.

The timing & carb adjustment making the motor run smoother is a good step in the right direction as the motor is no longer boiling over. But the bubbles in the radiator water/antifreeze is not a good sign.

You will only have one clean plug if the motor is being run and car driven on roads, with one leaky cylinder having the water/antifreeze leak cleaning the plug. Are you getting steam out the tailpipe another tell tale sign of moisture from the motor. BUT....moisture will collect in the exhaust system when its been sitting for a while, so its not a first sign. If the motor has been heated up and ran for a while , there should not be any white steam out pipe.

mike

blue

if you don't have oil in your water and you don't have water in your oil,i would say your head is ok.
i would clean up your plugs or put new ones in and top off the water and drive the thing out on the road for a while and see how it doe's.
i don't know how you all got off on carb adjustment ect when the origanal problem was a hot running motor.
i'd quit messing with it and drive it.

jeff korner
southeast indiana

I believe that would be water into the combustion chamber...

You should pull the head and magnaflux the area around the valve seats. Many six cylinder heads will be found to be cracked at this location. It can be difficult to see with the naked eye but when the head gets hot they will open and allow hot gases to enter the water chamber.

Not to but in here...My '36 and me went through the same thing. I replaced the rad. did the timing thing. and double checked the slide on the vaccum advance octaine selector you know near the distributor...flushed with high pressure water both ways with rad. hoses off...used rust out rad. cleaner, etc...Boy was I suprised when I pulled the head to find that after setting up for a lot of years that the holes between the block and head were pluged with floating broke off chunks of rust! removed and presto cool as can be!!!

For it to heat up so quickly I would agree with the above. Timing, mixture, etc. would not cause it to heat up that fast. Either that or a cracked head, bad head gasket, etc.

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I think you would need a lot of water pressure , like what a pressure washer would put out, into the block to thru thermostat housing to attempt to flush the build up out.

mike lynch

Hi there Mike,
today I finished installing the oil filter system and it is working well, very simple to install BTW.

I also wrapped the first part of the the exhaust pipe from the manifold with impregnated wrap to retain the heat and keep the engine bay cooler.

Which now brings me to the original problem of overheating.
The adjustment of the timing now makes the car much easier to start and for a while it did not overheat as quickly as before.
I ran it for 5 mins and even with the electric cooling fan going it boiled and eventually stopped with the overflow tank spurting water over the distributor and shorting it out.

I am not sure which to do first.
strip out the radiator, a tricky 2 person job or remove the head to see if its cracked or has waterways blocked up?
There must be a simple explanation for the overheating and I would like to get to the bottom of it all!

I ordered new valve cover gaskets from the FS and discovered that the 2 that I originally ordered for a 34 were too narrow, and the casting marks inside and under the tappets indicated that the engine is at least a 35, are these 35 engines noted for overheating in any way?
I now know that my car has 35 running gear and a 34 Holden body.....
Just a thought.
Peter

Peter
Cork type Gaskets quite often shrink when they dry out with age so soak them for a few minutes in warm water may well bring them to correct size.

I would pull the radiator (even though it is a pain) first as you should have it fully cleaned when you do the head anyway.

Tony

hi there Tony,
yesterday I finally bit the bullet and dismantled the front cowl and radiator complete. It was a difficult job by oneself but after much huffing and puffing, I managed it.

Unfortunately all the radiator places are now closed and I wont be able to have it tested and cleaned until at least next year.

I have also removed the water pump whilst all is bare. I though that my engine was a 34 but the head is a 35 so I guess that the rest of it is a 35? How can I determine positively what year it is?

In looking at the gasket section in TFS the water pump gasket is definitely not for the 34 std.....wrong shape

I also suspect that the timing cover may be leaking at the very bottom, but upon inspection, the front pulley has to be removed to gain access to the cover. I dont have a big enough puller for the pulley! is it something that can be hired for the day over here?

Peter

Peter
I doubt you will be sorry about actually pulling the radiator but the time you did it maybe slightly upsetting. I am surprised the radiator shops are closed now (my local is closing lunch time monday, reopening thursady).

Servicing the water pump wont do any harm though it may be easier to cut your own gasket even though The Filling Station delivery times are generally good (sometimes better than some local suppliers).

The timing cover itself rarely leaks but there quite often is a leak around the harmonic balancer seal. I am not sure about the type of puller required for the 34/5 balancers but now that the radiator is out of the way now would be an ideal time to sort that leak. As for hiring the puller the only place I can suggest is your local general mechanic shop (not a dealer) and ask him (take a pic with you to help identify the puller needed).

As for engine year identification post the numbers that are cast into the block and head as well as the stamped numbers near the distributor.

Tony

Hi
I don't know if this has been brought up or not but now that you have your water pump off take a look inside the block and see if you have the brass baffle installed. If it is not there the water will not be circulating correctly and you will have heating issues. The engine below apparently ran without the baffle for sometime and it was eaten away a little. I had a hard time installing a new one and had to drill and tap the interface to keep it from popping out in the future.

You know that if the head was busted in the past that they made heads many years afterwards. Could be a replacement head made the next year.

Just in case the radiator was not the problem, there is a simple
test to check for a cracked head or failed head gasket. With the
valve cover removed, loosen all the rocker arm retaining bolts
so the rocker arms no longer open the valves. Remove the spark
plugs and install a compression guage adapter that has a quick-
couple connector ( available at almost any parts store). Fill
the radiator to the top and leave the cap off. One at a time,
connect your air compressor hose to the adapter and pressurize
each cylinder with 120 PSI of air. It cannot harm the engine,
but a crack or failed gasket will be visible as bubbles in
radiator filler neck. No bubbles, no leak! I have been using this procedure for 60 years as a professional mechanic and it
hasn't failed me yet in diagnosis! Phil Lipton

Now that the area in front of the engine is clear, you could hook up a known good radiator (doesn't matter what year) and see if the heating problem goes away. Just use baling wire and wood frame to hold the radiator in place. This test would be proof positive that the radiator was the culprit.

I imagine you could even buy a new radiator from a parts store and then return it after the test. ;-) Or, maybe a buddy has a good radiator to loan you.

Good luck, Dean

hi there,
Thank you all for your helpful replys.
here are 2 pix of the front end and the radiator removed.
The brass baffle is in very good condition and needs no attention.
With regard to the flywheel and a puller needed...
once it is removed, how is it replaced on the shaft, it it takes so much force to remove it, it must need an equeal force to replace it? true or not?

You can buy harmonic balencer sets . One is the puller and the other is the installer. The installer has a large bearing and the tool is used to push the balencer back on.

Most people would do not own the correct tools will take a block of hardwood and bang it on with a heavy hammer.........not smart. !!!

My set is sitting in a cabinet waiting for me to use it for the first time. Your friendly mechanic might have one he will loan you for 1-2 hours.

You could also make a tool if you know exactly what it looks like.......i can take a picture of it if you want.....
mike350@rogers.com


mike lynch

CORRECTION ...Your crankshaft does not have a threaded area on the end to use a harmonic balencer installer tool. You will have to resort to original GM recommended method. Probably heavy hammer and block of wood.

mike

I have run across rust plugged coolant passages in the head and block several times in dealing with cars that have sat for years. If you pull the cylinder head, 1 look will tell all.....JIM

Might pay you to check the height of the water pump impellor vanes on your pump,and compare them to a new impellor.Just a thought.

While looking at the pump impellor check the clearance between the fins and housing, more than 3mm is too much.

Tony

I installed my harmonic balancer with a fixture I made out of 2"x4" hard wood. 2 verticle legs as close to center as possible and clear the hand crank casting. The legs are connected with a cross piece; it is "C" shaped when complete. Mike the crank snout and the inside diameter of the balancer. This balancer is press fit. Remember that for every .001 interference between crank and pulley it takes 1000 pounds of force to install. I would not go tighter than .015 (1500 pounds force). To remove the balancer, I used a 3 jaw gear puller with great care; take your time on this step....JIM