Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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Well, another busy day.

I looked at helicoils at Napa today. We figured that there might not be enough "base" to drill it out enough to install the coil. So I'm suspending that idea for now.

We also found a larger 90 degree banjo fitting that I could drill for the third line (bolt). Only problem was that it was thicker than the original and then the bolt would be too short to reach across it.

PLAN A: I've been looking for a machinist. But price will definitely be an issue.

PLAN B: It would be REALLY nice to find someone that has a '36 frame that they are parting out (that still has the brake lines attached).

PROGRESS TODAY:

Rebuilt Fuel pump installed.
New Optima battery installed.
Old oil drained. New oil added.
Old fuel filter removed at gas tank. I need new rubber hoses.
Turned the engine over for 5 seconds. Still letting the oil soak in the cylinders.

Oh, yes... I also honked the horn for the very first time.
wave

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My Chevy is over 70 years old and still running great. I hope I keep running cuz I just turned 81 !!
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Thanks... but I don't need ANOTHER frame. Ha!!

But, it is amazing what shows up now and again. If you wait long enough, almost anything will eventually be posted.

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Bill,
What is the parts book length of the brake cable you need. I have some that are thirty and a half inches (301/2) with an off-set bracket on them.

I also have one that is almost 31. This latter one has a webbed outer case. It has a tapped place on it for a bolt or something.

Let me know,
Charlie computer

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I'll try to look this up tonight. I'm missing the entire left side so I'm not totally sure.

But my research so far said that the left and right are similar and the left has a "thread" inside the cable winding to distinguish it from the right side.

I'll measure the right side later today too.


Bill Barker
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OK, I'm standing by.
Charlie computer


Update: I went back out and checked on the thread. Some have a brown thread, the others don't.

Last edited by 41specialdeluxe; 08/13/12 01:49 PM.
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Bill,
The cables for '36 and later big trucks show different parts for RH and LH. The only difference is that the outer housings are wound opposite of one another. I can't imagine what difference this would make. Especially since other vehicles use the same cable for both sides.
Can anyone shed some light on this?

Mike


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Here's what the 1935/36 Repair Manual says on page 21 of the 1936 Supplement:

Quote
The rear brake cables of the Master De Luxe passenger cars are identical. However, the Standard and Truck models use right and left emergency brake cables. On these models the left-hand brake cable may be identified by a string tracer woven under the cable wire shield.


As far as I can tell from the Master Parts Price list, it appears that the Left Cable Hand Break (FC) is 592283.

But I'm not comfortable yet, asking for any parts... I need to get back under and take photos etc. in order to be sure. This is NOT a Master, and it's NOT a 1/2 ton Truck. But then again, it appears to have some differences from the normal Standard. So - photos and measurements might be the prudent route.

Thanks everyone for your interest in this mystery. Oh, I almost forgot, I haven't yet tried the parking brake with only the right side hooked up. I'm waiting to get the hydraulic brakes working first, so I can use them as a backup to the parking brake (???) when I go to test it. Ha!!

PS. I live on a hill. Once I pull out of my driveway it's 1.5 miles of twisty, turning roads dropping approximately 800 feet in elevation.
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If I were you, I would practice turning off the key and scrubbing the tires on the curb. It is far better than the fender on a guardrail or sapling (or larger). Or you can get the Boss to lead in her brand new car, looking often in the rearview mirror for frantic waving. If she manages to just slow enough so your car nestles up to the rear bumper, then she can apply the brakes stopping both vehicles. I tried the rope and anchor, didn't work too well. Don't think cement block instead of anchor would be much better, maybe worse.


How Sweet the roar of a Chevy four!
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curb????

I'm gonna have to video-tape me driving down my hill. snomank

Ha ha...

----Added

Actually, Dave Miner is going to be here next Tuesday. Maybe I can let him video-tape it. Ha ha....

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[Linked Image from i753.photobucket.com]
[Linked Image from i753.photobucket.com]
[Linked Image from i753.photobucket.com]

Bill,

This is what I have. The parts book says:

1936-37 All Passenger (exc. FC) (311/2 overall) PART NO: 594308

1936 FC, FB L, w/clip (381/2 overall) 592283
R 592284

1936:

Series Wheelbase Type of vehicle

FA 113 Pass (MD) w/knee action (enclosed type)
FD 113 Pass (MD) less Knee Action
FC 109 Pass and Sedan Delivery (Standard)
FB 112 Commercial -- 1/2 ton truck

The ones I have are 31 and one half inches thus for the passenger with or without knee action but not the FC Standard. One is wound one way while the other is wound the other way. They are identical but for the windings and the brown thread that is found in some. See pics.

Let me know what you think.

Charlie computer

BTW: I had a conference call with Eastern Ed and Steve. monkey

We pondered and discussed the reverse windings in the cables to a great and exhausting extent. We sought the reason why. We came up the following:

They are wound that way (opposite each other) so that if some idiot were to overheat the shoes coming off a 800 foot hill and then have to resort to the use of the parking brake - in an eye popping panic - before crashing and flipping the shine jars out of that pick-um-up bed and loosing the entire un-tax-paid load, an absolute opposite and equal force should be applied and thus prevent the vehicle from rolling whilst in the air from running off the bad side of the hill. wave

It is amazing what scientific minds can come up with. It is equally amazing that us three "experts" could come up with the reason for those opposite windings. Is too! Agrin

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Ya, but if you contact the seller he may be willing to remove the fitting. I followed up on a "32" engine that turned out to be a 29 which I bought just to save it from the scrap yard. Turned out it had a 32 intake and exhaust manifold on it and correct 32 starter and generator. When I picked it up the seller also threw in 5 manuals(parts and service) and 32 front and rear bumpers with brackets, the 29 radiator, steering gear, column, and wheel, headlight bar, and emergency brake lever assy. Even if he doesn't have the fitting, seeing as he has a 36 frame he may know someone that might have one. Sometimes waiting works but shaking the bushes just might flush something out. Good luck and happy hunting!!


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Here's some photos -- measurements coming next.

The parking (emergency) brake has a weird mechanism - and I only see a way for ONE link back to the rear brakes.

The rod is about 33 1/2" in length. (It's the upper one in this photo.)
[Linked Image from barkerville.net]


This is the passenger side where it changes from a ROD to a CABLE and it passes through the frame. The cable (between the fittings) is about 23" long. The other end is at the backing plate (not shown).

[Linked Image from barkerville.net]


And this is the Driver's side rear wheel backing plate, where there is an opening with nothing attached.

[Linked Image from barkerville.net]


Last edited by Bill Barker; 08/14/12 09:59 PM. Reason: Added measurements.
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Bill, I believe I have the rod and cable that you need for the drivers side.

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Wow.... do you have any idea how it attaches near the transmission? For the life of me I can't see where a second rod connects.

[Linked Image from barkerville.net]

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It looks like the rod is on the wrong side of the upright bracket. I believe the right rod should be on the right side and the left rod on the left side of the bracket with the pin connecting everything. Your pin is probably going to be too short.

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Don't know about the e-brake system but we can be sure that someone has been into the ball housing. Orange silicone sealer was not invented until much after 1936.


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Yep... I could write a book about what you find when you acquire an "original" car. bigl
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http://www.gmheritagecenter.com/gm-heritage-archive/docs/Chevrolet/1936-Chevrolet.pdf


check out page 12-15 . Page 14 right hand side of the page explains what you need to know. Agrin

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Pages 14, 15, etc deal with the master series. Look at page 51.

Mike


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Thanks guys.... that was informative. It explained that BOTH brake rods are connected together. So, as was suggested earlier, the pin that is already there may not be long enough for the addition of the driver's side rod.

But at least I now know what I'm looking for. And ---- it helps to justify my trip to Hershey this year!!!!

Yowsa... tell THAT to my wife!!! snomank

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