VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1937-1945 vacumm hose

A dumb question...So with a vacumme leak the motor will heat up??Although when driving at normal speeded my temp is with in 160 and 180 but when I turn off the car it jumps way up causing re-starting issues..cooling system is clean..coil is good????

What do you mean re-starting issues ( besides flooding )...?
Is your starter turning over slower...?

No Kevin it does not turn over quickly until it cools down.I can leave it for 10 or 15 minutes and if it is still hot will not start right away..I can though pull out the trottle and it will start..I'm sure this is not normal but have had the problem for a long time and just deal with it

...And you've had that same starter all this time...? Just slow when it's hot...?

Using the throttle to start a hot motor is normal in our case...It needs more air to overcome that extra gas already in the manifold...

Normal,so when you turn off your motor after about a 20 minute trip does the temp shoot all the way up?

Well, it doesn't quite shoot up all the way...But I know I have radiator issues...Issues a good flush might not solve...And of course your not really "blessed" with hot days up there...If it's over 90* here it's best not blast along the highway or idle in traffic for long...Mine will hit 200-210 quick, and I have a better gauge mounted to observe true temps....

Chef:
A vacuum leak will cause your engine to run lean, and, heat up. my 48 used to be a bear to restart when she was hot. Now she usually lights right up. First I got rid of my leaky vacuum shifter. Then I had to replace my exhaust manifold because it was butched up. I got the manifolds sealed up tight, and put an insulator back under the carb. The replacement manifold I scored had a functional heat riser. Since I don't drive the car in cold weather, I wired the heat riser so it doesn't heat the carb. Now when my car is warmed up, my intake manifold is so cool I can put my hand on it. I ran the car in a parade last Summer, and, my temp guage never went past 180.

Regards:
Oldengineer

I realy need to dig deep into this heating up problem,The manifold is not leaking but I want to get to the core of the problem.I want to solve the hot starting issue.I do have alot of gas residue under the carb on the insolator

Hi Chef, About the hard starting when hot problem. I had this happen to mine a few years back, and it ended up being out of time a little and the battery cables were to small. I retimed it and went to 00 cable size, { providing you have a 6 volt system}. Now she turns over faster, hot or cold. Hope this helps.
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Joes 37

Talked to my auto-electric guy yesterday and he said the exact same thing as Joe says...He emphasized that 6 volt ( low voltage ) does not have the "push", you have to run 00 cable size...
...He also droned on and on about timing...grin

When your engine needs to be started HOT, don't pump the accelerator over two times, then if you smell gas or suspect that the engine is flooded with gas, hold the accelerator to the floor while cranking and as soon as the engine starts to sputter only let up on the accelerator to keep it from racing.

My ground cable is the flat strap type from COT40's They cound not tell me what gauge it is??I do have 4/0 cable I bought,would need special terminals though..Whats the throught about the heating up at shut down?I will check the timing..what else..Its always done this..What about the gas residew building up on the intake under the carb..Other then the insulator I have a gasket only on top meating the carb,right or wrong?

Chef, I too had that flat grounding strap and it was suggested to replace it with the size I used on the pos. cable. 2/O is good 4/O is even better. Just make sure to clean / sand all contacts. I know it's a pain to work with but the results are worth it. If you have a farm / implement dealer around you they might already have them made up. Or a welding supply store might put the ends on the cable you already have. About the carb. leaking onto the manifold, I had that problem too. I re adjusted the float to 3/8" an that helped alot. I also have my gasket under the carb. Hope this helps,
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Joes 37

Joe,thanks for the quick response.so funny these old chevys are so much alike..I have searched for the terminals and they are cheap.I have no knowlege on float adjustment,would need advice,can't be too hard..The bottom gasket could also be my problem

Chef, In your maint. manual it will tell you step by step how to do it. If that don't work, chime in on here and someone will help. What might be happening is the float is out of adjustment and gas is leaking down on the inside of the carb.
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Joe's 37

Thanks Joe,I have been reviewing the manual and will keep my eye on it.

Chef:

I don't know if it helps or not, but, I added an extra ground wire to my car. I ran piece of heavy guage wire from the rear bolt on the manifold to one of the mounting screws on the base of the voltage regulator. I figured I'd make sure I had a good body ground.

Regards:
Oldengineer

Interesting,I am hoping when I get the 4/0 battery cable on that should be over kill enough...Man that is one thick wire!!!

IMHO 4-0 cable IS overkill. I use 1-0 and have had wonderful results with the added benefit that it's much easier to work with. I read somewhere the the factory cables were 1 gauge but I don't know if that's a fact.

Steam probably. Until you check everything again attempting to solve it you could try WaterWetter.


Click Here

It touches on many of your concerns.

Thats an awsome thead!!!

I took a 85 mile spin in the 48 today and had no temperature issues and stopped just before returning home to test the purculation issue.Went in the store for 20 min.got back in the car,pulled the thottle all the way out and started with out floading.I guess thats my solution to the problem.


Got to put this girl down soon for interior