VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1937-1945 Do I use a lead fuel additive or work on the head?

I am currently overhauling the engine in my 1941 Chevy Town Sedan. I've heard from one machine shop that I need to put new valve seats in the head so I can burn unleaded fuel. Another machine shop told me that wasn't necessary. Others have told me I must add a lead additive to burn unleaded fuel in my engine. SO, what do I do?

I've also made the decision to switch to regular 10-W30 oil too since it's a new engine. Thoughts?

Neither a hardened valve seat nor lead subsitute added to the fuel is needed in your engine to get the fullest enjoyment of the vehicle unless you are going to be running it above cruising speed or hauling a maximum load. What we have decided here is that peddlers of lead subistutes and harden valve seats are the ones that benefit from selling these un needed products in order to line their pockets with your money.
Also you need not go to a "standard" motor oil if what you are calling a Non-detergent oil. a good multigrade detergent 10w-30 should be fine.

Real lead additive isn't sold anymore - the stuff is toxic, and, was taken off the market. From what I've read on these forums our 40's vintage 216's were designed to run on 76 octane unleaded fuel because that's what regular gas was back then. My 48 runs just fine on today's unleaded regular. I know that typically shops put hardened valve seats in old musclecar high compression engines so they'll live on unleaded, but, our 216's only have about 6.5 to 1 CRs stock.

Regards:
Oldengineer

bh41chevy,

Not to sound like an echo; but no need for hardened valve seats. No need for lead additive. Do use a multi-grade (detergent) oil like 10w-30.

That's the "formula" for my 54 hardtop (FP 235) that had a valve job 35 years ago at 60k. Odometer now just over 80k. NO problems. Also my '42 Special Deluxe (216).

Bill.