VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1916-1922 - Model 490 My "new" 1918 Chevrolet 490

I will scan the Danish manual asap.

I take the liberty to reply some of your questions here:
2. The cooling system is open, with no pressure all the years at least to 1931. So when the water expands near to boiling the water/steam will pass through the pipeline inside top of the filling tube. Stop the engine before that happens, cool down and refill water before more driving. Check if you have got a slippery fan belt or you may have started the day with too little water in the system. So check water and oil (and gas) level BEFORE you start that day! Refill when needed.

I strongly recommend a motometer for your car. That gives you all information you need during driving. But do not buy a used one with the red stripe in the thermometer showing. That is broken and does not work.

Look here or buy from The Filling Station or Gary Wallace: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw...;_nkwusc=chevrolet+motometers&_rdc=1

3. You remove the caps and put the cups full of "middle hard" grease before screwing on the caps again. When turning enough you should see the grease coming out. Refill and repeat if needed. If that is difficult, unscrew the caps and heat (by air)the reservoirs and canals before refilling the grease. Greasing those parts often (more than in the factory manual) is vital to the lubrication and maintenace.

You should remove the wheels to check any leakage of oil on the brake linings. You may heat them (300 Celsius for one hour) to damp off the oil, but better: Change to modern new, soft linings all the way. Rinse and grease the bearings, and turn the nuts a little more than finger tight.Check that the wheel still is not loose.

If you have oil on the linings, drill a 5 mm hole in the rear axle, both sides, underneath and 10 cm away from the rear spring. This will prevent the oil from reaching the linings thereafter. Still: Do only park the car in flat terraine.

4. The ignition lever (right one) must be at top before starting, or you will have backfiring and no start, and will be really dangerous when hand cranked. Set the throttle lever to 1 cm down from top. Put the ignition on and press the starter button. Use full choke and when engine runs, adjust the choke and put the ignition lever to 3 o'clock.

5. Change the oil in the transmission (and gear box) with 600W. You remove the filler cap and suck out most of the old oil with a pump, before refilling a little lower than the hole.

6. If the car is running well, do not change the points, but check if the surfaces are smooth where they touch. Use a small diamond file carefully/flat to remove the "dots". The gap: I do not remember for sure. The condensor on my 1916 is connected to the coil, but I do not know about yours. You get ignition parts from Gary W. No problem.

Don't worry, but ask and try. As to the driving technique we may return to that. Gear shifts up are easiest done when engine has low speed. To shift down you must give extra throttle to meet the car speed with the turning gear box.

Hope this could be understandable.

Thanks Solan, ,,,your help is greatly appreciated ! Will let you know how I make out with everything.

Doc. Brandon

Do you have any photos of your car that you can upload ?

Doc

Solan, ...If I want to install a water temperature sender to the engine, ...where on the engine or rad should I instal the sender ? I would instal the temperature gauge just below the dash. Is there a temparature sender/gauge that works off a 6 volt source ?

Sorry, but I do not have the knowledge to suggest where to install a temperature gauge on the engine/radiator. I think it can be done, but wonder why you do not want to use what was normal (and good working, too) by using a motometer?

Here is a link to my car:
http://s889.photobucket.com/albums/ac98/solan1916/Solan%20top/

I think you have been bitten by the " I must have gauges, so I know what the engine is doing at every second Bug". I was bitten by that bug back when I drove muscle cars everyday, then I started messing with 20s cars and found I had to change the way I was thinking. Most cars on the road in 1918 didn't have anything to test water temp but the drivers nose,ears and eyes. I don't have a gauge of Moto meter on my 490 and I drove it in hill climb competion and on long drives. If I haven't convinced you you really don't need a gauge, then get a moto meter, They work very well and do have one on most of my other cars since they had them when I bought them. The moto meter reads the heat in the radiator top and is accurate to what is going on in the engine. The only way to install a gauge is to drill a big hole in the head, block or rad neck and run an ill fitting line up under the dash to a gauge that looks way out of place. I saw some that had been done while I was at Newport and I can tell you they look pretty goofy! Another thing is If you think the temp aguge ill keep you from over heating the engine, think again, They only work if you are watching the gauge all the time and not keeping your eye on the road. 490s like to follow road crowns and the steering is pretty tight as far as steering wheel rotations go. My 23 Olds truck has a bad habit of chewing up water pump packings and clogging the rad tubes. I have a large moto meter on it(very visable) and have steamed it twice because I have to keep my eyes on the road to stay out of the ditch and miss bumps. Running with the spark retarded will make them run hot also. I advance the spark as soon as the engine starts to about half way and full advance when running higher speeds. It does just fine.

If you want to parade or have to drive very slowly, put the ignition lever to high = down to high ignition. Check the fan belt to avoid slippery belt, not fully engaged, and refill missing water.

And use a working motometer. It is much easier to keep an eye on that than on a "hidden" gauge underneath the dash board. Believe me!

Good luck.

Below are 2 photos.
1. 490 Transmission
2. Grease fitting.
I want to change the oil in the Transmission. There are 2 fill plugs on the top (1 & 2 in photo). I assume #3 is the plug for checking the level. There is a 4th drain plug on the bottom of the Trans.
To change the oil > open bottom plug to drain oil > open side plug and both top plugs > close bottom plug > Fill with gear oil in top plugs to correct level (side plug)> close side and top plugs. Is this correct ? Why are there 2 top plugs ? Does it make a difference which one I use to refil ?
The 2nd photo shows a grease cap to the right of the transmission. There is also one on the left side. What are these for and what are they providing lubrication to ?
Thanks again. You guys are a great help !
Tomorrow I will tackle the rear end. Will provide a few photos.
Might need some help ? Doc.

Thanks Bob, ...on your advice I will probably forget about a Temp Gauge at this point on my 490. I am so used to driving present day race cars with a digital dash and data logger, ..it's very easy to get overwhelmed with all the information ! I am working on getting my head back to 1918. Anyhow, I attached 2 photos in the next post with a few questions about the 490 transmission. I am doing a little each day and may need your help on some other issues. I always keep my camera handy in case I need help or when my old brain starts to overheat ? Great fun working on my "new" 1918 490 ! I love the little oil can that is mounted under the hood. Even my 2009 Dodge RAM Diesel doesn't come standard with a little oil can ??? Doc

The 2 plugs on top the trans lube the shifter fork sliders. Pull both plugs off and dump some 600wt oil in each hole. I have seen several 490s with a 90 deg pipe street ell pointing straight up.I fill to somewhere in the ell as it is very easy to see that way. The 2 grease cups lube your clutch brake shaft. Also that bronze collar has a small hole in top. The bronze casting is hollow and has wooden plugs inserted on the faces to lube the release spool. You have to push the clutch all the way down and using a squirt oil can fill that collar with oil. I use engine oil with a little 600wt mixed in. Oil all brake linkages and pivot points with engine oil. King pins get 600wt. I also squirt a bit of heavy oil in the steering ball sockets. My book says as far as the rear end goes to use cup grease in the cups at the rear wheel bearing area of the axel housing. It also says some rear end oil will find its way back there to help lube the bearings. I am not sure I would drill a hole back there as it will let dust in and also you might drill into the bearings. They are long roller type. Last weekend I parked for a couple min on a slope sideways. I noticed a couple drips of oil at the end of the axle housing, didn't look like it would get on the brake linings but I havent pulled the wheel off today to check either. Car stops ok for now.

Doc. Brandon,

I have been out of town for the last 5 days, but the great thing about this site is, there are always a few guys on here to help at a moments noticed. Sounds like they got you covered for now. Take your time and have loads of fun.

Cheers,
Gary

Hey Doc,

How are you.In relation to motor meters, I have had on for 38 years on my 28, works great, love it. There is something very soothing driving down the road with the temp showing on the motor meter just in the bottom of your line of sight. Not in the way and not requiring you to take your eyes off the road.
Now that I am doing a lot more highway speed miles, I will be installing a temp gauge in the cabin somewhere, but it will work along side the motor meter, not instead of it. By all means Doc if you want an internal temp gauge, go for it,. but man the look of a motor meter is something.

Cheers

Ray

Hi Bob, ...just to clarify, ...should I fill the transmission up to the level of the side plug (#3 in my photo).

Where exactly is the "bronze collar with the small hole in top" you mention that lubes the release spool ? Is it near the grease cup that lubes the clutch/brake shaft ?

About the valve train : How do I adjust the valve lash ? Do I do this with car running or not running ? Engine hot or cold ? The only adjustment I see is at the lower end of the pushrods on the right side of the engine. Is there a valve lash spec ? Doc

Sorry Doc.

I must remember that I am invisible

Ray

Yes fill to the side plug. I don't know if most do this or not, but mine likes to drip oil out the front when running.and I have to add oil on a regular basis. The clutch collar is visable in your photo but the fill hole is hidden but the arched part. These are notoriosly neglected and most people find the collar is no longer parallel front to back. They seem to wear more at the bottom and start to look like a Keystone. On top of the collar is a sheet metal cover and that has the fill hole. Valve train is adjusted at the bottom of the pushrod. Loosen the jm nut and turn the rod to adjust. Book says .004 for intake and .006 for exhaust. I don't have a .004 gauge so I set it snug at .005. I set mine not running but with the engine fully warmed up with the hood closed so the pushrods are fully expanded or normalized. I also go back and recheck them after turning the engine over several times. The lifters can get a tiny groove in the bottoms and can mess with your settings if the lifter gets out of the groove.

Doc I sent a PM (private message)about a week ago that should answer many of your service questions. Click on "my stuff".

2 Photos below.
1. Rear Axle end.
2. Front Axle end.

1. The ends of the rear axle on my 490 has 2 modern style grease nipples (2 per side). Do all 490's have these or have these been retro fitted to my car ? I added grease here.

2. The front axle has 2 grease points. The tie rod end has a grease cap and the top of the king pin has a little flap that opens where the grease goes in. How do I push grease into these style grease fittings ? Do I just put grease on my finger and push it into the grease caps ? Is there some special tool to add grease ? Not sure how I am supposed to add grease to these types of fittings ?



Doc Brandon

Forgot to mention, ...there is some kind of string material wrapped around the front spindles where they enter the wheel hub. Is the string material some kind of sealing material ?

Doc, ...the new 490 guy !

Hi Doc,

Did you not see my posting or am I invisible still.

Ray

The string material may be ment for sealing. I think you should not need that if you change to modern sealings.

As to question # 1:
I also have such grease filling at the rear og Solan, but do not know if that is original. It is for greasing the grip around the axle. All greasing points must be greased now and then, so you are right. As you will need some pressure to grease here, you cannot use a finger.

# 2 The small cup on top of the steering is not correct, but you can buy the right one. It should be same as the lower one.
I will post a picture soon. When you turn the grease cup top you press the grease into the system.

Coming back some later.

Hi Ray, ...sorry, ...not sure if I got your post ? I just realized there are two "Ray's" on the forum ! - Ray in Australia and Ray in Canada. Makes more sense now.
Two Ray's with 490's, ...what are the odds of that ?
To Ray/Canada, ...I did find the 490 service manual you mentioned on your site. Doc

In one of Doc Brandon's photos of the transmission there is a large spring that attaches to a bolt on the top of the trans and appears to go to the parking brake pedal as a return spring, perhaps. Is this original or was it added for easier pedal return? My '17 490 does not have this, but appears it would aid in pedal return.
Also, is that grease fitting on the rear axle collar correct? My '17 has a square pipe plug in place of the grease fitting. The early '17 490 I saw in Tennessee last weekend has a grease cup on the collar so I'm wondering what is correct?

Thank you for your time,
Gary

Hay, don't forget the RAY in Vancouver who also has a 1918 "490".

Gary, ...yes,... the spring is a return spring for the brake pedal.
Not sure if it is original but it does work well. It was on the car when I got it.

I don't think the modern grease nipples on my rear axle are original equipment. I don't think they existed back in 1918. They must have been retrofitted to my car later in it's life.

Doc Brandon

Hi Ray from Vancouver ! Okay, ...so now there are 3 Ray's in the world with 490's ! Must be some kind of past life connection between all the Ray's and their Four Nineties ???
Doc