VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1933-1936 34 chev STD steering column wiring

He needs the outside diameter measurement of the mast jacket bushing itself since the Standard used a small diameter mast jacket bushing than the Master.

hi there,
thanks for the info, now I understand the information..
Peter

Peter
It might be easier to measure the outside of the steering shaft and the inside of the tube but allow for any taper in the tube.
It maybe the same as my 38 but I have taken the steering box back to the shed with the rest of the truck so not just going to the shed in the back yard.
Tony

the inner diameter of the bushing and the outer diameter of the bushing or the inner diameter of the column

Hi there,
I have just stripped the steering column and taken some pictures.

When the rubber bush was removed, I found that it did not have any type of washer at the top for the horn wires to make contact with. Must have vanished many years ago!

The bush come out intact but very worse for wear as the photographs show.

The sizes are:
Depth set into the tube from top 43.34mm / 1.714 inches.
shaft size 15.67 mm / .616 inches.
Inside dia of main tube casing 29.70 mm / 1.168 inches.

If anyone out there has a bush of that approx sizing, please PM me. thank you.



see more click pic
some of the pics are not very good ,just learning to use a digital camera, my brownie died.....

Peter
View 5 should have a brass ring (washer) about half the thickness, I seriously doubt that bush can be repaired.
When I reinstalled mine I didnt put it fully down the tube, I will do that when I measure the length of the new "S" on the top button.
Dont loose that broomstick as you will need it to guage the correct depth because measuring from the top will be too far down the tube for a complete bush.
Tony

Yup, that bushing is done for. If you are handy and have a lathe or a buddy with one you can make a bushing. There are four parts. The inside (next to the shaft) needs to be nylon or Delron or like the original (micorda). The outside needs to be flexible so it can be installed and stick to the housing (can't rotate in the housing). A brass washer can be used to make the contact. Just make sure that it does not extend to the edges of the bushing or the horn will blow all the time. Solder a wire to the washer and leave enough length for it to extend out of the column when installed.

Yes I know it is a bit complicated but some hobby stores sell rubber casting materials and bearing suppliers have the nylon stock. I would drill a few shallow holes in the nylon just to make sure that the rubber attaches well. Soldering a couple of studs to the bottom of the brass washer would insure that it stayed in place and could be used for the wire. The wire is soldered to a leg on the original and repop brass contact.

I did make a prototype bushing from nylon with a relatively thin layer (~1/8") of weather strip rubber on the outside. I counter sunk the brass contact and drilled three holes (one for the wire and the other two for legs that were secured with more weather strip rubber. Only did a test install in the housing. Looked like it would have worked.

I have a few of these original NOS send me a PM

Wes 816 547 5006

Hi there,
I finally fitted the top bush that I had purchased from a member on this forum.
The bush measured slightly over size, the material that it is made from is very soft and now brittle (over 60 yrs old, we all get like that in time), so I had to very carefully reduce the dia by about 1.5 mm.

This I achieved by gently sanding the circumference with emery paper, a long strip in a see saw motion.
Eventually it fitted snugly and I threaded the wire down and then tapped in the bush.

I had predetermined that it had to finish 70mm from the top of the steering column to the top side of the bush.
There is an indent at the right spot and that is as far as the bush can go, and guess what? It ended up exactly 70mm from the top.

I test fitted the steering wheel etc and then came a problem.The horn button that I have is not working as it should.

The rubber underneath is split and wont seat down properly? I will have to buy a new one from I&I, but I cant see how the horn button stays down in the hole without popping out again?

any ideas out there on what I should be looking at?

Peter

The rubber under the horn button fits into the space between the metal insert and wheel bottom. That keeps it in place.

hello chipper, do you have a picture of same?

Don't have a photo but may be able to take one if I know what you want in the photo.

Hi Peter,

Is this what you had in mind?

Hi Pat S,
thank you for posting the pictures,
excellent shots showing everything....
now I see how the rubber is located in the chrome ring.
and it stays there without any fixings?
amazing

cheers
Peter

Yes it does. You have to work the lip down with a flat tool. The friction holds it there. The bellows part keeps the button up. When you push it down, the contacts hit the brass ring and the horn sounds. When you release the button, the bellows push the button back up. I'm not sure if that is a good description, but that is how it works.

Peter,

After I installed my '34 horn button as shown here by others, I had a problem with the horn sounding occasionally when turning the wheel. I fixed the problem by slightly filing the flat ends of the two contacts so the horn only worked when I pushed it. It takes just a small amount of metal removed to fix this problem in case you have it. Too much removed will result in no horn.

thank you Pat,
I will bare that in mind when mine is ready to be installed.
cant Waite for the moment..
great pix 2

Peter

Finally the horn push rubber button arrived from I& I after 7 weeks journey from USA to Australia.
After fitting it in the metal cap and into the horn ring assembly, it did not push down at all. So after much huffing and puffing, I decided that the steering bush had to move further down the column.

I achieved this by gently tapping it down using a box spanner a bit at a time, refitting the steering wheel and trying it.

I had to move the bush down about 8 mm and then the button started to work.
I could push it down using force and it connected with the bush bras ring in the column bush, and I hope in the fullnesses of time, make the horn sound, beep beep?
I also lubricated the rubber Diaphragm with Vaseline , because the new fitting made a funny noise when the steering wheel was turned.

Bluey
If the prongs on the button are contacting the brass ring in the column bush you need to set the bush slightly lower in the column. There needs to be clearance until the button is pushed.
Tony

Or just snip off a little on each prong. Much easier and quicker than pushing in the bushing. Besides it rests in a different place on the shaft. If the shaft is worn the fit will be better.

I am wondering that if the central horn button is only pushed on one side and only one prong touches the ring on the top of the bush, Will the horn sound and work?

or do you have to push hard so that the two prongs make contact with the metal ring on the topside of the bush?
Peter

One Prong contact is all that is needed to make an effective circuit to ground for the horn to work.

thank you for your reply Jack, most appreciated..
I cant wait for the moment of truth maybe this year or next.
Peter