VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1912-1928 Rustbuster - From this to this to this FANTASTIC

Gidday Fellas,

As you know I have been busy cleaning and wire bushing (with angle grinder attachment) my chev chassis and parts.

Ray, 1928isgreat mentioned using a product called "Ranex Rustbuster" by Bondell to finish off the process and what a difference it made as it's just to easy to do so here are a couple of pix with where I am up to and I will still give them a bit more of a rub over.

Here are the back brakes

From this:



To this:



after rustbuster



Here are the front brakes

From this:



after rustbuster



Many thanks Ray for the tip, so tomorrow I will be attacking the 4 x springs and give them a good buffing up, it's all just to easy and very enjoyable as I can see the car slowing coming to life and glowing under the shed lights.

Look out Grant,

It's alive. Good feeling hey.

Cheers

Ray

Grant,

"Here are the back brakes" (pics) you say! Huh? You mean some of you folks have more than just back brakes? Huh? What a heck of an idea!!!! Ha, ha. Y'all are living the high life my friend!

Seriously, it look fabulous. Start cooling those Guinneses.

Jerry

Hi Jerry,

We down under guys need all the brakes we can get.

Cheers

Ray

Gidday jerry,

Cheers and thanks for the comments.
Yep four brakes mate, one in each corner on this ole banger.

I'm having a great time cleaning up the chassis and rusty parts as it's starting to come alive, I've never done anything like this before in my life, just not confident enough but once you get started the addiction takes over but it is only early days and the interior timber frame repairs are starting to play on my mind a little...Wait and see I guess!!

Grant my boy, with the way you have tackled everything else and with such enthusiasm and confidence, my money is on you to meet the next challenge just as you have the past. You're gonna beat the snot out of her (the challenge) and come out on top once more. Continue to make great strides and soon you'll be popping those tops on the hill with dad. Don't you know he is proud?

Jerry

Hi Jerry,

Could not have said it better myself.

Cheers

Ray

Ray and Grant, if you can get that steering issue (wrong side) changed, Linda, Sadie and I might consider moving next door. I would love to have you guys as neighbors. I'll bring the beer!

Jerry

Hi Jerry,

We will keep the light on in the window so you will know where we are. You cant miss my place, its just 90 minutes from Grants. And by the way, Grants is just up the road and around the corner. Got it. No problems.

Hehy heh heh

Cheers to Sadie

Ray

Grant, you are working your dad's car with the touch of the master's hand.

The Touch of the Master's Hand

"It was battered and scarred,
And the auctioneer thought it
hardly worth his while
To waste his time on the old violin,
but he held it up with a smile.

"What am I bid, good people", he cried,
"Who starts the bidding for me?"
"One dollar, one dollar, Do I hear two?"
"Two dollars, who makes it three?"
"Three dollars once, three dollars twice, going for three,"

But, No,
From the room far back a gray bearded man
Came forward and picked up the bow,
Then wiping the dust from the old violin
And tightening up the strings,
He played a melody, pure and sweet
As sweet as the angel sings.

The music ceased and the auctioneer
With a voice that was quiet and low,
Said "What now am I bid for this old violin?"
As he held it aloft with its' bow.

"One thousand, one thousand, Do I hear two?"
"Two thousand, Who makes it three?"
"Three thousand once, three thousand twice,
Going and gone", said he.

The audience cheered,
But some of them cried,
"We just don't understand."
"What changed its' worth?"
Swift came the reply.
"The Touch of the Masters Hand."

And many a man with life out of tune
All battered with bourbon and gin
Is auctioned cheap to a thoughtless crowd
Much like that old violin

A mess of pottage, a glass of wine,
A game and he travels on.
He is going once, he is going twice,
He is going and almost gone.

But the Master comes,
And the foolish crowd never can quite understand,
The worth of a soul and the change that is wrought
By the Touch of the Masters' Hand."

Myra Brooks Welch

Keep up the good work man,
Jerry

Hi Guys,

Even though I introduced Monty, and his carer Grant to Rust Buster, his results have amazed me a bit. Up until Grant bought a 4 litre bottle, I had only seen the 1 litre and bought those. Bugger.

Grant's success has encouraged me to tackle a few things like a steel radiator surround and fan housing (see my blog)that previously I thought would be a sand blasting job.

Grant is a brusher, I am a soaker. I take a part and with a sheet of thick plastic underneath, place the part on a level surface and form the plastic skin around the part with just minimal clearance. Then I fill the void with Rust Buster, come back in 24 hours, and bingo, a nice derusted surface, gun metal grey / blue in appearance. If left raw will not rust again for at least 12 months.

Good stuff, and you can reuse time after time.

Cheers

Ray

That is a really good poem!

Thanks for shareing it with us....

Is the main ingrediant of Rust Buster Phosphoric acid?

I have used some swap meet rust removers that are, and I had some problems using it indoors. But I also think that Phosphoric acid is an ingrediant of Classic Coke (cocacola).

Gidday MrMack,

Yes i would say it has some small ingredient in it like Phosphoric acid, but the smell is not very strong when used in the workshop also it does leave a white powdery film on the concrete floor when it is spilt but wipes up easily and is not that bad on the skin either...

Hi Guys,

See Product application Sheet and MSDS at email adress below.

http://www.bondall.com/rustbuster/Ranex_Rustbuster.html

Under more information.

Cheers

Ray

Ray
NEVER sandblast anything that has to be chromed as it will have to be linished so heavily that it will also be probably impossible to chrome. Also sandblasting changes the molecular structure of the metal in in some heavy cases I found that when panel beating it, it just cracks up. So! be careful. Also there are good and s*%$t sandblasters, belive me I know.
Also ever use sand if you can. There are better modern substitutes
Chris

This stuff can screw up your lungs by breathing the fumes!
But it is also one of the very best chemical rust removers. I have used it, but not again, at least not inside an enclosed shop.

Phosphoric acid 7664-38-2 10-35 %
Ferrous sulphate 7720-78-7 <10 %

Gidday fellas,

Yep probably can at that, but I've nver used it in a closed shed and always have a pedestal fan working behind the car blowing the fumes out the double doors towards my grumpy neighbours house....

Here's 2 more pix and I'm glad to say I have finished cleaning under the chassis, more pix and info on the blog now of today work.

Hi Chris,

Thanks for re-enforcing what I found out many years ago. I would never attempt to blast a steel surround, much too valueable. That's where the Rainex comes in.

I did however blast my original fan shroud and lovers a few years back, then had them zinc plated before they were painted. Those puppies are never going to rust.

Re your comments about molecular structure of steel. I was in the stainless hospital furniture game for a while, and we used to bring in tube from Indonesia as it was easier to bend. But guess what, after we bent it, the bends would stick to a magnet, but never in a straight length.

Work that one out.

Cheers

Ray

Good prompt Mr Mack,

I practise safe chemicals in my garage. 6 x 6 metres with one side a full width door that I have open when dealing with anything including thinners, rainex, prep wash, degreaser you name it, even kerosine, which laid me out as a young man.

Even then I do never work over the top of the chemical container if possible.

If the weather is bad and the door is shut, slip on the resporator.

Any chemical, including brazing flux can be dangerous if you are not careful.

However I would sooner deal with the above chemicals every day using precaution, than go through a pack of smokes a day, and think it not hurting me.

A pleasure as always to talk to you guys as you are a wealth of knowledge.

Cheers

Ray

Ray, I think that the method of application of the chemicals, (Rust Remover, Paint remover) is also a concern. My worst experiances has been when useing a spray bottle, the vaporized chemicals fly everywhere.

Mr Mack,

None of my postings regarding RustBuster used the word "spraying", nor do I intend to. The words used were "brushing" and "soaking".

I rate your advice very high, as you know more about Chev 4's than I could ever hope to, but I would appreciate your response based on the facts of my actual posting, otherwise if someone makes a posting about cleaning parts with a brush and kero or petrol are you going to warn on the dangers of spraying these liquids also.

Regards

Ray

Yes,
Ray, I did notice your comments on how you applyed the Rust Buster which contains Phosphoric acid. I agree that you are doing it right, I was the one that was guilty of Spraying Phosphoric acid based rust remover! I just wanted our members that may be thinking about using Rust Buster to understand that using Phosphoric acid is not like useing a mild solution of soap and water or other mild chemicals. ---Safety First!------- You may need your lungs a few more years. I think that the worst auto restoration chemicals is the strong paint stripper. Spraying several of our chemicals can be dangerous. The ones I use caution with are Gasoline, I don't ever spray it! also My favorite B-12 Carb cleaner will blind you and it is a big fire hazard. Don't spray WD-40 near a fire. I use unleaded gasoline in a bucket OUTSIDE to wash small parts in. I use a hydrocarbon based solvent in my covered parts washer, but the ones with a high flashpoint. I am of the old school. I don't count on the chemical makers to protect my property or life. I am careful about how I use them.

There is one thing I think you are wrong about. I doubt that I know as much about our good old Roaring Four Chevrolets as you do.

Thanks Mr Mack,

Your my main man, or as we say in OZ "true blue"

Cheers

Ray

Hey everybody, have you considered Naval Jelly for rust removal? I don't know about down under but in the states this stuff is a miracle rust remover. I don't know, maybe it doesn't come in large enough volumes to make it feasible but it is odorless and as far as I know is not caustic to skin, is brushed on and after killing the rust, turns the metal a nice dull black/gray color, which also lasts for awhile if you are unable to paint right away. Okay, I know it comes out pink but it turns as soon as it hits the metal!! I'm just wondering out loud.

Jerry all in pink

Also you can dilute down your basic de-humidifier cleaner found in almost any store. Ths is also a phosphoric acid based solution.

To a clean dry sray bottle, add 55% water, add 5% dehumidifier cleaner solution, mix well, 40% denatured alcohol, mix well. Now you have a metal etching solution for light rust conversion before painting, or for light rust removal. Spray on and wipe dry just before priming.