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Oil Can Mechanic
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Oil Can Mechanic
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Well, I went to O'Reilly's today to get some rear bearings and the cheapest they could get were $74 dollars each. I figured there have got to be some cheaper quality ones around at a local shop somewhere so I won't have to pay for shipping so my search continues.
Brandon
Youth is wasted on the young
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Jack39,
I use that ol' sticky 600W from the Model A folks. So darn thick it plugged up the hole in the brake drum oil shield/catcher. Probably had something to do with the 80 years worth of old crud in there,, too. Wheel stayed clean, brake parts on that side got like dipped in black honey. Should be better now, with all new seals. Starting all over, all now clean as a whistle inside.
Model A friend ran out of 600W. Too lazy to drive to Ford Resto. place, so my newest concoction is a 50/50 blend of commonly available Lucas 160W 85 (or whatever it is) heaviest gear oil, and Lucas Oil Stabilizer (that's some real thick sticky stuff). Pours real real slow.
We'll see.....
Doug
SEE THE USA.......
Old Iron (cars, trucks, tractors, fire truck) Too much, never enough........
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ChatMaster - 3,000
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ChatMaster - 3,000
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Thanks for the update. I hope that you have the leak fixed this time. :-) !!
JACK
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 127
Shade Tree Mechanic
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Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 127 |
Correction, that's 85W-140 I am mixing with the Oil Stabilizer.
Good luck on your leaks.
Last edited by 46 Panel; 07/15/11 11:15 AM.
Doug
SEE THE USA.......
Old Iron (cars, trucks, tractors, fire truck) Too much, never enough........
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Oil Can Mechanic
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Oil Can Mechanic
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Thats rather high for seals. A bearing a seal supply like Motion industries, without a doubt, could get a seal for you WAY more within reason than 74 bucks.
In my shop, quality is a standard, NOT and option.
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ChatMaster - 3,000
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I think the $74 was just for sealed rear bearings, and not just seals, as he already had the seals from the filling station.
JACK
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Joined: Jan 2010
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Oil Can Mechanic
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Oil Can Mechanic
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I could understand that then. sealed BEARINGS...but not seals.
In my shop, quality is a standard, NOT and option.
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Oil Can Mechanic
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OP
Oil Can Mechanic
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Yeah, it was the bearings that were going to cost $74. I found a bearing shop in Nashville and they were $38.
I've heard both sides of the story now so maybe we can get a definite answer. I hope to finish my car up this week because someone would like to use it for a photoshoot.
Will the new sealed bearings press on easily with a hammer or will I need to take them to a shop to get them on?
Thanks, Brandon
Youth is wasted on the young
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Tech Advisor ChatMaster - 25,000
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Tech Advisor ChatMaster - 25,000
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The Mangy Old Mutt
"If It's Not Junk.....It's Not Treasure!"
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Oil Can Mechanic
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Got the old bearings pressed off and the new bearings pressed on today. I think I accidentally put the new outer seal in backwards. I had the retainer plate away from the car when I installed it and, as usual, wound up doing things backwards. The instructions said to face the lip toward the differential. I assumed it was talking about the rubber lip, though each side had one, one was bigger than the other. I'm hoping because I installed sealed bearings and had put a thin coat of Gear RTV on the outer side of the sealed bearings that hopefully the outer seal won't really even be necessary, so hopefully it won't matter.
I took pictures through the disassembly process and I'll post all of those in a separate thread called "pictures of removed an axle" so that maybe it could help out the next guy. Now that I've done it, the entire process is very simple, but for someone who's never done it and knows nothing about these old cars the biggest challenge was learning how to do it.
Now I have to move on to changing the torque tube bushings and seals. I'm sure that will be a whole new set of challenges.
Brandon
Youth is wasted on the young
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Oil Can Mechanic
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Oil Can Mechanic
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Youth is wasted on the young
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