VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1933-1936 1936 WM transmissions

My 1929-40 parts book list # 600174 as fitting 1934-36 Masters WITH A NOTATION it is also used with transmissions which have serial numbers commencing with WM --- lists nothing else for WM.......could the Ebay U joint have been for something else -in error?...Also the front and rear yokes are listed for all '34-'36 with no exceptions.
The speedometer drive gear is pressed unto the front U joint yoke on all 1934-36 transmissions.

Thanks. I stand corrected. My 29-42 parts book says the same thing. The photograph in the parts book looks like my original with the speedometer gear unit on the front yoke. The front yoke on the ebay u-joint has a smooth outside shaft. It looks like the speedometer gear unit may be pressed onto a smooth shaft on my original, but it could be one solid unit. I don't intend to try to remove it to find out. Just waiting on some new throwout bearing clips to arrive and I'll be ready to re-install.
Just a couple of more questions if you can stand it:
1. Vintage Auto Parts lists a ball seat repair kit for the rear of the transmission. How important is it to make sure the ball seat and the U-joint ball housing is perfectly smooth? There are a few moderate scratches running front to back in the transmission ball seat. Can I just polish this out? or is the U-joint likely to rattle if I do this?
2. My transmission gasket kit came with four identical gaskets that go between the rear transmission housing and U-joint ball housing. Are the extras used as shims? I can't find anything in the shop manual regarding this. If so, how do I know how many I need?
I am much obliged for your very helpful replies. I'm still on a steep learning curve, but would not be able to do this without your kind advice.
Randy

Randy, I just encountered the same issues with my '35. It had been several years since I installed the ball joint and I asked myself the same questions. I made a new, single gasket from good gasket material (Blue Rhino) and it works well. There's enough slop in the spline that a few thousandths in a gasket would hurt.
As for the ball mine is pretty smooth and it's one of the few parts that doesn't leak! It seals well but the ball is pretty smooth. I've also had good success using metal epoxy to fill gouges in sealing surfaces and then sand it smooth. Should work. Also check the female part to make sure there are no burrs that could scratch up the ball. If still in doubt after your repair, rotate the ball so the scratches are at the 12 o'clock position and not exposed to the oil bath.
Oh, and we all have learning curves! I've gotten lots of good advice on this forum too!

Sounds good. To be clear, the scratches that I have are on the inside (concave) part of the ball seat, and not on the sealing surfaces. I've used JB Weld to fill in holes and then sand with good success in the past.

The four "gaskets" are shims.If the ball is too tight it will bind, not flex, and really tear up the seat.Too lose and it will leak,The correct method to "adjust" is to mount the ball-less the torque tube and install all the shims-remove shim until slight drag is felt on ball.The ball kit is a brass seat that renews the surface that the ball rides in....most have scratches etc.-just smooth a little and reuse.It will last another 50 years.


I should have said the brass seat attaches to the rear of the trans. case-it provides a new wearing surface on the case - eleminating replaceing the case due to wear.The ball itself and the retainer were easy to replace and inexpensive.

Gene,
I must have had a brain cramp when I said the gasket thickness didn't matter. You're right, it would effect the fit of the ball and socket.

Randy, I'm doing this from memory as I am not home to check but I think the concave (socket) part mounts on the trans case with 4 bolts. It may still be possible to rotate the socket by removing these...but I can't recall if that would effect the speedometer drive or maybe something else.

OK. I feel goooood! This is the first time I've attempted any kind of transmission rebuild, and it works! Of course, I had a couple of "senior moments" along the way when I first put it back in and thought that I forgot to install a roller bearing. Somehow I had two extra roller bearings and was sure I forgot. Anyway, when I finally installed everything (new clutch, throwout bearing, new 1st gear, synchro drum, reverse idler gear, bearings), it actually went into gear quite nicely. Shifted from 1st to 2nd very well, without the occasional clash and forceful effort that was required before. One issue however, is that it grinds when downshifting from 2nd to 1st, unless I am at a complete stop.
My question: Is this typical of these older, non-synchromesh (This is the WM) transmission? Have I done something wrong in the rebuild? Or do I just need to adjust the clutch properly? If the latter, my manual describes two adjustments, one for the distance of the clutch pedal from the floor (supposed to be 1/2"), and one for the clutch linkage to adjust the position where the clutch actually engages. The clutch linkage adjustment is obvious, but I don't see any other adjustment. What is the proper way to adjust the clutch on the '36 Master? Thanks again guys. You've been a great resource for me.
Randy

1st gear is not syncronized and can not be engaged unless car is standing still-or almost.
Your A-OK

You would have to wait untill 1966 for the fully scyncronized 3 speed transmission in a passenger car.

Wonderful! Thanks.

Randy,
Sounds like your trans overhaul worked out great. Congratulations!
You can "cheat" a little by double-clutching to go from second to first. With the transmission in neutral (between second and first) bring the rev's up a little, let the clutch out for a second and then coax her into first. I wouldn't suggest you do this at more than just a mile an hour or two...maybe three. With a little practice you can get pretty smooth with it.
The long-stroke engine has enough low end torque to enable you to just use second gear when going thru stop signs. Besides, these days does anyone really STOP at stop signs or before turning right on red? It's a pet peeve of mine when we drive modern cars but I hope others will be a bit more understanding when I drive my '35!