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Update to My project 1925 Engine Resurection

At our recent club garage night I got to hear my engine run for the first time. I was pleased at how quiet and smooth it ran. Guess the guy knew what he was doing when he installed the water pump wrong, as it was in the right place for his set up. The belt was turning the pump all right, but it appeared to jump around a bit without any way of tightening. Hoping I don't have to come up with a belt tensioner.

Here are a couple photos of the engine set up to run.


Hoping this will inspire me to keep going with the rest of the restoration.

Roger

very nice job!

are those the original colors?? is it the same for 27??

just got my engine town down and am in the process of having the engine bored/honed, crank/cam machined and begin buying the pistons and rings.

Hope to have pic's as nice as yours come summer

ron

His engine color is correct and can be purchased from the Filling Station. Consider that all viewing means are not the same. Only in person can you make a credible evaluation of the actual color.

If you are not too far along on the engine building I could give you some good advice.

Hi Ron,

Got the paint from The Filling Station. Here is an outdoor photo.

Roger

Looks really good but the intake might need to be black instead of green. I am not sure about 25s being like that, but I do know the later ones are black. As far as the belt flopping around goes, you do not want the belt too tight at all. It will eat the bushings in the water pump if too tight. about 1"-3/4" deflection is good and just barely tight enough to keep the fan from slipping is even better!

Looks great! Nicely done.

I agree that the intake should be black. Do you have the little restricter fitting, where the vacuum line comes off the top center of the intake and goes to the vacuum tank? (Don't feel bad, I painted my transmission engine color, then learned it was supposed to be black!)

Thanks Don (& Bob) for pointing out the manifold color as being black. I will research my literature again. I was wondering if my water pump grease cup cover should be black, or green.

Nice engine photo. We almost match. I see you have an early K open car, touring, or roadster? I would love to see a photo of the other side of your engine. Here is one of mine and maybe you can point out any more discrepancies, like the oil pump and generator, painted black? Is the coil bracket and circuit breaker bracket black, or? Also, is my coil oriented correctly? I have seen it depicted both ways in the literature.

Roger

Made me work! Couldn't find a photo of the passenger side of the engine compartment in the computer. Had to get an actual PHOTOGRAPH out of the album and scan it into the computer! How 20th century is that?! It made the colors look a little weird, but it works.

It is my understanding that the water pump grease cup should be nickel plated. I believe the generator back cap, oil pump, etc are black. Ditto coil bracket, etc. But I defer to Antique Mechanic, if he comes in on this.

They say a picture is worth a thousand words, so here's some photos -





Here's the car when it was done - a Roadster as you can see. This was headed for Field Check at the 40th (?) Central Meet in 2004. Proud to say it won 3 VCCA "Best of Show - 4 Cyl," and AACA Grand National and National Award. So it must have been pretty right. Much of which I owe to the guidance of Ray Holland.



and here it was 3 years earlier -



So it can be done! I sold the car about 3 years ago now. Have fun.

I think grease cups were just plain steel or zinc plated as was the coil bracket. If needed I can look at my 28 truck and let you know for sure. They are both still covered in oily dirt and haven't been cleaned yet.I have a couple coil brackets also I can check for traces of paint. Now for the kicker...I painted a grease cup on an old tractor and it didn't take long for the paint to come back off so if they were painted at the factory, how long did the paint stay on those high wear and oil soaked items?

Thanks Don for the photos. Sorry you had to part with such a good looking ride.

To answer your previous question, I do have the restrictor fitting in the vacuum line and I'm looking for another one for my touring engine. Were these available in 1925? My Jan 1st 1926 parts book has no mention of it.

I was happy to see your gas line routed behind the oil can bracket. Mine is the same, but didn't know if it was correct.

Roger

IMFALCO, how well does/did this engine stand work for your needs? Im recieving my spare engine in a few weeks and would like to get it up and movable. Was there any tipping issues with the transmission bolted on? Were you able to test run the engine on this stand?
Frank

Hi Frank - no tipping issues so far. I've rolled it around some on my slab outside the garage and inside too. My neighbor welded the legs on. The frame is a couple of I beams welded to a shortened rear cross member from of a mid 20s Chevy. The front is a flat bar that has the 1926 front engine mount bolted to it.

This set up was used during the start up (see photo). I set it in my pickup bed without the casters, then lowered it on the casters, when I got it home.

Roger