Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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#196353 01/26/11 10:07 PM
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wawuzit Offline OP
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I see all kinds of knob sets in catalogs. They look good. My question is how do you do that? Mine look like they're made on the shaft from the factory. I guess glue. Anyone ever change out just the knobs?

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I have wondered that too. I think I read somewhere about heating the knobs in hot water and shrinking them on but I don't know how well it works. I would like to hear from someone that has done it.


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I thought about trying to see if my shift knob was tight. so i went out to the garage and tugged on the knob and to my surprise, it pulled off! It was always tight before. so i pushed it back on and gave it a good whack with a rubber mallet. now it seems to be tight now. i did not see any kind of glue residue on the shaft arm so maybe it was fitted as Ed had suggested.


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wawuzit Offline OP
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My shift knob is threaded. I was wondering about the L T C knobs.

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The dash knobs on my '38 are bonded to a shaft. The shaft has the wire crimped to the other end that travels through the cable housing. I've not used the repop dash knobs but I'm assuming they have a set screw to hold them on the OEM shaft where the missing/broken knob was.


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wawuzit Offline OP
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http://www.aaaparts.cwmax.com/chevydsh.htm

This link shows the best assortment of knobs I've seen. The store says it just has a hole in the end. I was wondering about what kind of glue/adhesive/epoxy would work best. I hate to buy the complete cables but still you would have to worry about the light switch. Curious.

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Have not installed '38 knobs but have replaced several sets on '31-32 cables and headlight switches. All you do is warm the knobs in hot water and push them on cleaned shafts (I sand the ends a bit to help improve attachment). The knobs swell a bit with the heat and then contract a bit when they cool. No glue is needed. Just make sure that the headlight knob is installed and those with grooved end are oriented correctly or you will be buying another to get it to look right.


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wawuzit Offline OP
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So the light switch would have to be removed? Wonder if a hot air gun would do the same thing?

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Steve,
Hot air gun? Don't know. I expect the heat would be too much and too concentrated.

Your know, your light switch shaft may be like a 41. They have a tab on the underside of the dash that releases the knob's shaft from the switch. If so, you may want to do that. Depress the tab and pull it out. Rocket science!

If you purt the knob in a pot of water, heat the water, then you can pull the knob right off. In reverse put the shaft in the freezer, heat the knob in water, then push the warm knob on the cold shaft. Works on corn silk as well as plastic.
Have fun,
Charlie computer

BTW: You should forget the hot air gun. It worked well on GI Joe stuff but I doubt it will give satisfactory results on the 38 knobs.

BTW2: I just know you're gonna try it anyway. dance

Last edited by 41specialdeluxe; 01/27/11 11:02 AM.
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patriot Steve, What are you looking for, a complete set of knobs or just the light switch knob? I did a bit of research a while ago and through talking with several folks, I came to the conclusion that the '38 knobs were not removable without destroying them. I tried the hot water trick but that didn't do a thing. If you are only looking for the light switch knob, I have a spare for a Master Deluxe (ivory) if you want it. It is in the switch but very easily removed if you only want the knob. Don't know if you have had one of these apart or not but the knob is on a shaft that is a couple of inches long with a bend at the end that just goes into the switch and it is pretty simple to change them. The knob I have is in fairly good condition but the "L" is missing a little paint. Beamer


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wawuzit Offline OP
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Thanks for the offer. I have a mismatched set. I was wanting a complete set of the ivory. I may have to buy the cables and try to just get the light switch knob to work. Thanks again

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Originally Posted by wawuzit
http://www.aaaparts.cwmax.com/chevydsh.htm

This link shows the best assortment of knobs I've seen. The store says it just has a hole in the end. I was wondering about what kind of glue/adhesive/epoxy would work best. I hate to buy the complete cables but still you would have to worry about the light switch. Curious.
The knobs shown are not the correct knobs for a '38. The vendors that stock knobs for a '38 have the MD knobs. I've not found anyone selling correct knobs for a Master. Here's a link to Chevs of the 40s.


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Originally Posted by wawuzit
Thanks for the offer. I have a mismatched set. I was wanting a complete set of the ivory. I may have to buy the cables and try to just get the light switch knob to work. Thanks again
Steve, I'm sure I have seen a picture of your dash, but I don't remember what your knobs look like. I would like to find a choke cable with the brown wood grain knob. If you happen to run across that in your search, let me know.
Thanks
Doug

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wawuzit Offline OP
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My choke knob is black.

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Doug, on rare occasion I see '38 Master knobs/cables on ebay. I haven't seen any for quite a while though.


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Originally Posted by Tiny
Doug, on rare occasion I see '38 Master knobs/cables on ebay. I haven't seen any for quite a while though.

Tiny....My 38 Master coupe is 98% original..not restored, The only thing I am missing is the chocolate brown colored Throttle cable KNOB (or the whole cable if necessary) with the big white "T" on it, somewhere down the line someone installed one with a after market black knob. I have looked for a long long time with no luck.Nobody reproduces them.If you find a source would you be so kind to turn me on to it ???
If you do.... I will copy your picture from your recent post,build a shrine to you in my 1922 vintage garage,burn incense in your honor and worship it every day....THANX....ED


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Originally Posted by ED1938
If you do.... I will copy your picture from your recent post,build a shrine to you in my 1922 vintage garage,burn incense in your honor and worship it every day....THANX....ED
laugh Certainly no need for all that Ed. I do understand your frustration. I had a similar issue with my '38. Someone in the past had replaced the OEM throttle cable with a generic cable with a white knob. I was fortunate enough to find a VCCA member with a '37 car who'd bought a '38 cable on ebay. I pointed him to a vendor with a repop '37 cable & he sold me his '38. The wire was too short so I had to do some "engineering" to make it work but at least I have the Master knob in my Master car. If I do run across another I'll certainly wave a flag at you to get your attention. patriot


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I had actually gotten to the point of buying myself a small mold and casting kit as I figured I would have to produce my own knobs but I found some NOS knobs. The casting kit appeared very simple, you just need one original knob to make the mold.

Mine were a pain as they are actually Pontiac knobs mounted on the 1938 chevy throttle cable and chevy headlight switch. With only 220 of this model car produced it's not likely one will show up on fleabay so I'm mating the NOS Pontiac knob onto NOS Chevy switch and throttle cable.

If you look long enough you will find a solution...


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parking ED1938, Have you tries Ida's Classic Chevy Parts. According to her web site, she has headlight switch pull rods for '38's and that is what has the knob on it. Beamer


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Originally Posted by Beamer
parking ED1938, Have you tries Ida's Classic Chevy Parts. According to her web site, she has headlight switch pull rods for '38's and that is what has the knob on it. Beamer
Beamer.....Yes..I have contacted Ida's via email, they got back with regrets that they could not help me and knew NO source for the brown (38 Master)throttle cable knobs,Nice folks there.
I have been contacting every source I can find,for a long-long time and have drew a blank. I emailed many many places all over the country including those giant junkyards out west, most of them do not even have the courtesy to return my inquiries I know how the folks searching for the HOLY GRAIL must feel....Thanx ED


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Dear Ed,

Check your personal messages. I think I can end your "quest for the Holy Grail."

Yours,

Jim


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