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I dont know about you Ken, but to me it is a great feeling when week after week you pull of your rad cap and the coolant (in my case green)is up to the top every time.

Well done

Regards

Ray

I'm not sure what 'coolant' you blokes in the US use. But down here in Aus me and my mates do NOT use coolant any more, just a rust inhibitor.
Reason being that I didn't use my coach for a few weeks, and didn't realise the flange nut was dripping a bit. When I went to use it next time, I carried out my usual procedure of checking oil level on dip stick, placing the drip on the end of the the dip stick into the the water pump front bush and noticed the leak.
I tightened up the flange nut a bit and the leak stopped, i then wiped off the residue coolant and to my horror found that it had eaten into the steel cam cover. Cut a long story short the 'experts' told me to NEVER use coolant in a non pressurised cooling system as when exposed to air it become very corrosive.
I now use BARS rust inhibitor which works really well. i believe NULON make a straight inhibitor as well
Chris
Chris

I hate to inform you that water will become corrosive also. Both oxygen and CO2 will dissolve in water. Oxygen loves iron particularly when water is present. CO2 makes carbonic acid in water. The best way to minimize the effect of both gases is to keep them out. An overflow bottle attached to the overflow tube and tight fitting cap will do the trick. Keeping the coolant hot is another method as the gas is much less soluble in hot water than cold.

As in the above post, if there are no leaks then the overflow tank will work perfectly. In fact will work better than in a pressurized system as none of the valving in the cap is necessary.

I have been using an overflow tank, for approx 20 years, and the trick is to have a seal on the rad cap, but keep the overflow tank non pressurised. In my case I used a brass mini minor overflow tank and removed the gasket from the cap. I run the tank about a third full when cold, no problems. My local rad shop estimates with the vented overflow tank, the cooling system is slightly pressuried to approx 2-3PSI, otherwise the expansion and drawback would not work.The only other mod I have done to the cooling system was cosmetically based. I had just painted the engine in full gloss black and noticed a drip from the water pump, which when dried the coolant turned white. Remedy was to fit a modified water pump, using the same housing but with modern GM (Holden) inners. This modified pump is made by a Chev guy in Sydney (Ray Hatcher) and is used by the guys that do the long distance rallys etc.No more leaks, no maintenace, no worries.

I HAVE BEEN RUNNING NULON HEAVY DUTY COOLANT, MIXED 70% COOLANT TO 30% WATER FOR THE LAST 4 YEARS. NO SIGN OF RUST OR CORROSION ON ANY INTERNAL PARTS, RAISES THE BOILONG TEMP AND RAD HOSES LAST LONGER THAN IF I WAS USING SOLUBLE OIL. I KNOW ITS PERSONAL PREFERENCE BUT THERE IS NO WAY I WOULD EVER GO BACK TO PLAIN WATER.