VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1929-1932 18 degree timing mark

I got a little confused while reading on how to estimate the
18 degree timing location on the flywheel of a 1929/30 engine. While looking at the flywheel from the front of the car, it's going to be 6 degrees TO THE RIGHT of the 12 degree mark, right?

My diagram: http://home.comcast.net/~ec2sc1/flywheel0002.jpg

The easiest way to determine the 18 degree mark on the flywheel is to rotate the distributor counter clockwise until the 12 degree mark on the flywheel lines up with the pointer. Once there, continue to turn the distributor counter clockwise until the 12 degree mark on the flywheel just starts to disappear out of the top of the timing hole and then stop. You are now timed at 18 degrees. Yes, 18 degrees would be 6 degrees to the right of the 12 degree mark on the flywheel.

Here's my web site discussion on this very topic!
http://1931chevrolet.com/specs7c.htm

So the best way to do this is get out your crank and turn the engine over until you have the number one piston coming up and set flywheel like what Bill posted. Then set the distributor with a test light. You will hit it every time.

Also you know you will need to move the distributor one tooth.

Let me know if you need more info.

If the engine is in time at 12 degrees, you can advance the distributor to 18 degrees without moving the distributor one tooth.



But make sure that the number one piston is coming up on the compression stroke.

Yes, I've put it on the stroke before. Kinda of really fun when you do this.

Thanks everyone, I think I have it now. I used an old Navy "grease" pencil (from writing backward on the radar board) and marked the flywheel and it really stands out using a timing light. Now on to the "fine" tune.

Hey JYD,

At one time you told me you marked your 30's flywheel with and 18 degree mark. How did you do it? When the flywheel was out?

Yes, I marked the 18 degrees when the flywheel was out. Also, I painted the U/C mark, the 12 degree mark and the 18 degree mark with white paint so that all of the marks would be easier to read with a timing light.

Is 18 degree the correct timing with the advance knob all the way in on a 1932? I do not have my manual with me and I do not remember. Are the marks on the flywheel the same on the 32 as on the 29/30?

The factory timing is actually 12 degrees with the spark knob pushed all the way in. With today's fuel and spark plugs, for proper operation the timing is advanced to 18 degrees and the spark plug gap is increased to .040" or .045".

The marks on the flywheel are the same for 1929 and 1930 as well. By the way, there is no 18 degree mark on the flywheel but the timing can be set at 18 degrees by following the procedure described above.

I had not heard about advancing the timing due to new fuels. I am going to try it on my 32. I will set it based on the diagram in the post, probable with a timing light and a paint mark at the top of the window with the 12' mark centered in the window. I noticed my timing seems to "float" a little up and down which I have never understood?

The 18 degree timing and the increased spark plug gap has been around now for about 20 years or more. Keep in mind that for 18 degrees the 12 degree mark has to be almost disappearing out of the top of the timing window.....not in the middle of the window as you stated. The 18 degrees is to the right of the 12 degree mark, not to the left, therefore the 12 degree mark would be at the very top of the window which would put the 18 degree mark (if there was one on the flywheel) at the pointer in the center of the window.

Dog
Your correct(again) I stated in incorrectly, I'll mark it centered in the window with the 12' on top!

Now ya got it!! And, don't forget to regap your AC C-87 spark plugs to .040" as well.

Hey JYD,

Have you ever tried this with G-10's or G-12's? What about a NOS coil?

Yep! The G-10 and the G-12 plugs have to be gapped to .040" as well. I have tried them both and it made a world of difference with the increased gap and the 18 degrees timing. As a matter of fact, my '32 is currently running on a set of used G-10 plugs and they are gapped at .040".

A NOS coil worked the same as a used coil with this method.

On the coil could you burn one up since the are a tar filled coil compared to an oil filled like the ones you can buy today?

Haven't burned one up yet. I know of several other cars that are still running original coils with no issues. The original coil in my '32 is 78 years old and it is doing fine with the .040" spark plug gap.

I have timed newer cars many times and was able to reach the distributor, timing light and view the timing marks on the shaft.

How does one person time the '29/'30 194 with the distributor on one side and the timing window on the other side of the engine at the flywheel?

To adjust the distributor do I just loosen the spanner nut and loosen the stud near the block and shaft with a screwdriver and then twist the distributor? I know once I do it the first time I wont have any trouble after that.

I just want to make sure I go about it correctly.

Thanks in advance.

The distributor has a manual advance arm that is clamped around the distributor housing at the base. Loosen the long fillister head bolt that holds the manual advance arm tight around the base of the distributor and then turn the distributor to adjust the timing. After the timing is adjusted tighten the nut on the fillister head bolt and you are done.

Make sure that the spark knob is pushed all the way in on the instrument panel. Also, because of the location of the timing window it's best if you have someone help you with setting the timing....one dude to turn the distributor and another dude to check the timing in the timing window.

An original coil on my '31 Cabriolet failed on the last day of the 2009 VCCA SW Tour near Springerville AZ.

Man, that coil only lasted 78 years! That's a bummer!!!

Thanks Junkyard Dog.

So you are speaking of the fillister screw right below the condenser.

That's the one.