VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1937-1945 216 vs 235 Where do I begin?

I'm hoping to get some help on what to do with the original motor in my 1939 truck project. I'd like to make this a daily driver / beefier and safer on the inside /original on the outside. I've got most everything off of the vehicle except for the cab and front/rear wheels. Some folks are recommending a 235 engine that can bolt up to the existing bell-housing, but as a novice, not sure where to begin...

I've got the motor and tranny out of the vehicle and can't even figure out how to get the bell-housing off of the old motor - thanks for all your help and patience as I learn this stuff!

Angus, as to the bell housing, look inside of it and you will see two bolts there. Make sure you hoist the engine up using an engine lift and then stand directly underneath it. When it comes loose maybe it will knock some sense in to you and you will out that original is the way to go. I'm just kidding you. Don't stand underneath it.

Anyhow, if you choose to modify it, I suggest you go for a 261 truck engine. They are plenty strong and have full oil pressure to the oil filter. The beauty of the swap is that the 261 looks much like the 235 which looks much like the 216. You may want to get a 55 or later open drive transmission and differential. Split manifolds and some "flowmasters." Convert it to 12 volts and get you some nice add-ons. With the 12 volts you can get you a fancy radio and speakers. Two tone it to something like maroon and black. Looks good with white-walls. The sky is the limit for modifying it for your safety and pleasure.

I strongly recommend that you keep it as original as possible. But you're the boss here and so you do it like you want. Its a real kick to drive up and some start to admire it and you can floor them by saying you keep it to original specifications. But people admire street rods, also. You decide and good luck with it.

Remember though that a nice rod project can much more difficult than a restoration to original specs. And, generally can't be undone without much difficulty, depending the measure of modification done to it, of course.

Good luck with your project. Others will give you some good advice, also. I've merely stated my opinion based on your original question. Stand by.

Best wishes, Charlie

BTW: The bell-housing is held by 4 bolts. Two are obvious. The two in the bell-housing are not.

You might want to read this link.

http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/engine_swap_216.htm

I am finding my 216 plenty strong for up to 60 mph and 1000 lb loads, even in hilly country. Due to it's low gearing, it just roars up hills with ease. You could even go faster if you swap out the ring and pinion gears with a higher set, but I imagine it wouldn't be quite as wonderful on hills.

You will need to remove the clutch and flywheel to access the bellhousing to block bolts.
Keeping you truck original creates less headaches from the start even for a seasoned mechanic, I can tell you from experience.
Tony

Many collectors (myself included) devalue vehicles if you replace the original engine. Sometimes it's necessary such as if the block develops a crack. I drive my 38 216 @ 60 MPH regularly without issue.

I agree. If you are a collector, that would be a mistake to modify anything. I guess it all depends on what you got the car for in the first place. If you are a true 100% collector of antique cars, that could get expensive. If you got the car as a driver and wanted it mostly correct as that year vehicle that could still get pricey. It goes all the way down to ratrods. The car I post as an example of being a perfect 38 coupe more than likely isn't driven at all, and looks like a $80k car. I'd love to see it,but I wouldn't put that much into a 38 chevy coupe.