VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND NEWER 1946-1948 Torque tube Questions

Chevrolet called them shims and not gaskets. The correct number must be used to insure a proper fit of the ball. With the proper number of shims the ball should move up and down with just a little "drag" and the adjustment is made before the U joint is installed. You may need 1 or 6.

Check out your shop manual. It should describe the proper adjustment of the universal joint ball using the shims.

Thanks again guys, I always forget about the shop manual.

What is the name of this part and where can I find them?

Any help?

Any speedometer repair shop (if there are still any around near you) should be able to put one together for you. One shop I used locally has all the parts in house and will put one together in the same day. They just need the reduction factor ( in this case 15%).

Thanks, I'll start my search for a speedometer shop.

I've done a couple of these torque tube swaps and I think it's much easier to support the frame and pull the entire rear end. Also if you just support the car at the rear axle, the axle will pivot when you remover the torque tube. Also I ran my 46 half ton for a long time with the passenger car torque tube (3:55 ratio)just need to swap the entire tube, axle assy as mentioned none of the truck rear end parts will work in a passenger car. What allows this swap to work is that the drive shaft splines at the trans of the passenger is same as the pickup. Also keeping 6 lug wheels with this swap, first stick the 54 torque tube into a 48 or older rear axle to keep 6 lug.

Fleetboy,
Adjustment of the "bell" so that it will flex with a tad of drag. A single gasket may cause a stiff drag while all of them may be too loose. Use them as required to obtain some drag but not too much. Just use good judgment or the manual as a guide.
Good luck,
Charlie

Fleetboy,
Please disregard my reply. I didn't notice that there was page 2 and that your question had been answered with proper advice.
Charlie

I am getting ready to swap my 4:10 gears in my 47 for a 3:73 set from an early 50's car.I have read all the posting about swaping the torgue tube/carrier assembly. Can I swap the ENTIRE rear end assembly, put the axles from the 47 in the newer one to retain 6 bolt pattern ?

Also, How is the "Oakie Bushing" different from the original and how did it get that name? I'm not clear on what to order and what to do to use the Oakie. I assume you have to remove the old bushing first ??

Msg for Chevgene: Would like to contact you via phone if you are receptive to that. Lv msg with # & hrs if so. Thanks.
msg

When I did some resealing on torque tubes, I went to a local hydralic shop and picked up a 3 IN or so, 3/16 or 1/4 wall dia O ring for the ball to retainer seal. Seems to be much better than the original cork composit seal.

You don't happen to remember the exact size or the Parker Mil Spec number for the "O" ring do you?

I think that several years back JYD posted the specifications for the one that can be used on the early six torque tubes.

No I do not. I took the flange looking thing (retainer) and the ball thing (these are the two things that have to be interface sealed with the O ring) to a local hydralic shop and they ffound one that fit perfectly. They had a wall full of them. As for the flange to transmission seal/shims, you can cut your own or purchase from Chevy's of the 40s.
the seal in the ring nut can be tightened or repacked with almost anything like large diameter cotton string or if you want to do it up real good get some packing material which is getting difficult to find now days.

Mack,
I use a 340 90 durometer o-ring. Get them from Motion Industries in Oyster Creek, TX in a two pack Motion number 00621077. They also have different quantities under different part numbers.

Discription below from McMaster Carr

AS568A Dash Number 340
Type O-Ring
O-Ring Type Standard
Cross Section Shape Round
System of Measurement Inch
Width 3/16"
Inside Diameter 3-3/8"
Outside Diameter 3-3/4"
Material Buna-N
Color Black

Thanks Chipper that is the info I needed,
I just stop in a Halliburton shop and pick the right ones off their "O" ring board, they use a heck a lot of "O" rings! It is easier if I have the right numbers, I gotta be quick or they will want "something" for them, know what I mean?

In my case it would be cause I would screw up the first 3.

A friend of mine transplanted the torque tube and prop shaft from a 1/2 ton pickup into a 54 Powerglide rear axle. The tubes are the same diameter as long as you use one from a 1951-54 pickup to the carrier on a 1951-54 Pass car. He shrank the tube slightly by soaking it in ice than drove it into the passenger car housing. He spot welded it in a couple of places to make sure it stayed put,

Please bare with me if some of you read this post for a second time.
I know this is an old topic but I should like to confirm that I manage to install a 53 Chevy torque tube/prop.shaft/diff.assy with 3,7 gears in my 48 Fleetmaster using my original axle. It went without any problems and I am very happy with the results. .
For people who have lots of work space a bridge and a strong assistant it can be done very easy in an afternoon.
Tip: start with sodas and drink the bears after the installation.
Note: I first was considering a 3,55 ratio but after all I went for the 3,7 the reason been that if I should ever make a road trip with high mountains I should miss the extra torque for climbing and I can always use a 2 inch smaller diameter wheels to get near the original ratio. On the other hand as I am doing for now I am using 2,5 inch larger diameter wheels so I have an amazing 20% gain and I can cruise an easy 60 to 65 Mph at 2500/2600 rpm.
If you have any questions feel free to ask.

http://s875.photobucket.com/albums/ab317/Jianis/53%20Torque%20tube%20and%20gears%20instalation/

Jianis

If you decide to get some more speed and less RPM buy a set of oversize tires, one size over original will make for a nice smooth ride and the speedometer can be reset in your mind by using a good GPS with speedometer.

MrMack

I have got a set of 700x16 tires instead of the original 670x15. That is already an almost 9% improvement.
I made some calculation and made a sticker ring that goes on the glass of the speedometer. At the first attempt I corrected the indications with the help of my GPS speedometer and today I made a new sticker with the correct values. If all goes well I will make a test drive tomorrow.

http://s875.photobucket.com/albums/...instalation/Speed%20corection%20Sticker/

Here in the Netherlands someone is making an electronic /electro-mechanical speedometer adapter that someone can easily adjust to any ratio. so you do not need to change to a new adapter every time you change the tire size.The only problem is that it is on the expensive side so I guess I have to start saving.

Jianis

Great! It looks like you have your stuff together!

From looking at your "photobucket" I'll assume your going with kilometer's per hour...? Since that does appear to be the standard in your neck of the woods....

Kevin

You are right. The Speedometers here show in Kilometer at least the ones on cars that were imported when new.There are lots of American cars that came later that they use Miles.
My 48 was assembled in Belgium and came with Kilometers.
I am searching now for the last 18 years for a speedometer with Kilometers for my other 48 but no luck so far.
Mind you its only a dozen cars of that era ( 42 -48 ) hare in the Netherlands

Jianis

If you already have a KM speedometer can you duplicate the face to put into your other '48 speedometer? My understanding is that is the only difference, as the internals and gearing is the same.

With Photoshop and digital camera making a decal or overlay should not be too expensive or difficult.