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You should always suspect the timing when going through the basic tests because the dwell on the points changes with point wear, which changes the timing as well.

Yep, I was aware that you can check the compression with the engine running but I don't know why anyone would want to do it that way since it is way easier to remove all of the spark plugs and then check the compression on each cylinder using the starter.

Is this the hole you’re referring to Gene?
http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/112215604
As you can see in the picture, that’s one more thing that I checked off the list as being good to go.

Check the compression while running? Boy Lee, that’s a new one on me and I have been around the block a few times. I see no reason to do it that way, the 6v starter will crank your engine over plenty fast enough to start it in all weather, in all climates, in all the testing that you will ever have to do, like compression testing for instance. The only use for a hand crank now days in my opinion, is to set timing or adjust valves. The use of the hand crank as a torture device is something that I personally wouldn’t recommend.
Forget about the ball or any other timing marks, if the engine is running, which it sounds like it is, turning the distributor CCW or into the rotation of the distributor shaft (which is tuning CW) is going to advance the timing. You will reach a point where it will begin to run rough, then retard it (CW) a few degrees till it smoothens out, then check if it will start without kick back. If it kicks back, then retard (CW) it a few degrees more. That is about all you can do for the adjustment of the ignition timing if the points are set properly.
I know we have been through this compression thing a half dozen times but I’m getting a funny feeling about the compression testing procedure that your using. Forget your rural farmer methods and use the auto mechanics method.
With a hot engine, all the plugs out, throttle and choke butterflies wide open, screw your gauge into the plug hole and with the cylinder dry, crank 4-6 compression cycles, record this for each cyl. Then squirt a couple of generous squeezes of #30 motor oil into the cylinder, idea is to help seal the rings. Crank same as before, i.e. 4-6 compression cycles and record this for each cyl. In all likelihood the compression will increase with the wet test. This indicates that the rings are worn. If it doesn’t improve then you have a valve that is not sealing properly for some reason. You should definitely be looking for a reading over 100lbs, hopefully 110 to130lbs.
This all shouldn’t take you more than 10 or 15 minutes to accomplish a test like this, so “I taint got the time” is inexcusable. That was just the father in me talking Lee, I was a strict disciplinarian, that’s why my kid couldn’t wait to get a place of her own. But really, this is a simple test and ya gotta know what condition the basic engine is in before you can move on.
That oil line thru the water jacket was used for decades, and yes it is a pain in the [bleeped], especially the first time you run into it.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Hey Denny, Them old timey tractor guys don't always have an electric starter on their tractors so they have to do things the "Hard Way" Crank her up and pull the plug with it running do the compression check, duck your head and screw that plug back in, hook up the wire and then do the next plug, I don't know how they did the tractors with just one or two cylinders, very carefully, I reckon! :vcca:

The hole in the gear becomes oblong. I always use a roll pin for replacment....as Chevrolet did in the later years. I think I have replaced the gears on all my cars.

When the mating surfaces of the gears wear, how much of that "wear" and "slop" will contribute to "lost degrees" on the timing. Enough. Thus the reason behind the "hot rod" timing. It's not a fix, for the "slop" still remains within.

With the compression being down, with the vacuum being on the lower side, optimum economy and performance will not be achieved. That's the bottom line here.

Yeah, Mack, that's funny - of course you don't pull the plug while it's running (if you're doing the compression test that way). And the only 1 cylinder tractor I ever had my hands on was green and if you let them out in the sun, they'll bleach out and look like Olivers. Contrary to popular belief, the "Johnny Poppers" were/are two cylinder tractors. Allis painted them "Persian Orange" so you could see them out in the field when you came back from town with the new part.

On the old crankers, you have two choices if you don't have a portable starter like mine. You can try to measure the compression at 'hand cranking speed', or you can fire her up with one spark plug replaced by the guage. I guess you could put her in road gear and drag her down the road behind your Chevy truck .... most guys will just do it by hand (measure the compression at hand crank speed) or just start up the ol' gal (minus one plug) and do a "hot" compression test.

Might sound strange to you, but 50 years ago country boys got it done with one wrench and a pair of pliers and that was it. Lose the pliers and your whole family was mad at you.

Lee Prairie

Lee, sounds like you have more troubles than you need. Good to know another ol tractor guy here. Mine are Case.

If your timing gears are not in correct mesh, this will not allow valves to close all the way when piston is at tdc, giving you low compression as valves are leaking. You already know this. The other thing I am thinking, flywheel not on correctly. Ain't like my VAC where the one flywheel bolt is offset from others so no mistakes on mounting flywheel to show ball where its supposed to be. My 48 with 235 in it when #1 on tdc, no ball in window. Found ball on #5. From all I read on post, suspect timing gears.

By the way, I thought all you Allis guys had bad backs from riding those bucking broncos.

Jim

Thanks, JDV - not many people know about that .... the seat is behind the rear axle. So... you bounce a bit... LOL!

On an Allis, you can't put the flywheel on incorrectly. Only one way it will go on - the bolt pattern is not symmetric.