Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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Joined: Sep 2007
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Tony53 Offline OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
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Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 52
Tony from Goulburn, Gene, and everyone else. I found a product called "Redex" at my local auto store on the weekend. You can either empty it in the fuel tank or pour it down the carb. I poured it slowly down the carb whilst engine was on fast idle, then quickly until it stalled out. There was a little black smoke but not a great deal. I also changed the oil to 10W 30 (old oil level was fine but very black after 3 months). There were 3 brands to choose from Nulon, Castrol GTX, and Shell Eco. I used Shell. Then left it overnight as Gene suggested. I checked the torque converter and the bolts seemed to be tight, when car was on ramps, wasn't exactly easy getting a socket set in there. The next morning started engine, could smell the product coming out of the exhaust, but there was no thumps, heavy knocks, or noises at start up indicating that perhaps the main bearings are fine; then took it for a drive. After about 30 minutes it started making the knocking noise again, but only at the lights with my foot on the brake and when it is of course in "D" on the powerglide. It doesn't make any noise when it is in "N" or "P" when idling, even if I let it idle for a long time. I'm thinking perhaps the noise is coming from the powerglide, as it sounds like it is coming from below the vehicle as opposed to a pushrod up top, but I can't be exactly sure. It's not really bothering me too much because it disappears once the car is in motion again, and doesn't do it all the time.



Tony- 1953 sport coupe
Sydney, Australia
Filling Station - Chevrolet & GMC Reproduction Parts


Filling Station


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Tony,
More thoughts.
A loose baffle in the muffler. Place some thing like a long stick against the muffler with the other end up to your ear.

The distributor. When its making the noise gently pry the distributor back (side ways) from the engine or place a finger on the cap when making noise. Can you feel a shock (not eletrical) that matches the knock.
Fuel pump. Can you "feel" the knock when touching the fuel pump?


Gene Schneider
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As a preliminary method of diagnosing an engine noise I was taught that a rod will clatter when the engine is revved and then decelerated with out load. Main bearing nosie comes at idle with the engine under load.(in gear brake on let clutch out at idle). Your last expereince with noise at stop lights with the engine under load would tend to have me under the car with some plastigage on the mains. talk

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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Just a thought... I had a intermittent knock in my 50 216 with the 3 speed. It occured mostly while driving and sounded horrible. I didn't know for sure what was going on so I pulled the pan and plasti-gaged the rod bearings and they were all in spec. This surprised me due to 96,000 miles on the engine. The one thing that was strange was a small spring (3/8 od x 3/4 long) laying in the pan. Later on I did a rebuild on the fuel pump and guess what was in the kit. This little spring. The noise I was hearing was the fuel pump arm slapping around on the cam lobe. After the rebuild, no more knocks. This is an easy thing to check for and even easier to overlook.
just my $.02 worth. good luck, Bill

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The fuel pumps in the 1955-57 8 Cyl engines would do that. The spring would rust and break in half and the pump would clatter, and louder when it was working hard.


Gene Schneider
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