Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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Joined: Jun 2007
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Where is the 'correct' attachment location for the ground strap on the '36 Chevy transmission?


1934 Chevy 1 1/2 ton Farm Truck
1936 Chevy Master DeLuxe Series FA 5-window coupe
1961 Chevy Series 10 Fleetside
1963 Dodge M37
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IIt is fastened to a bolt that is on top of the extension that is on the back of the transmission case.


Gene Schneider
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Chevgene is right as always. If you stop and think about it, the transmission, engine and drive line are all somewhat isolated/insulated from the frame because of the rubber mounts. So if you should ever experience slow cranking you can add a ground strap from the battery to the frame, just be sure to scrape off any paint on the frame to ensure a good ground. Also make certain you have the correct size ground strap.

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It helps to add a ground strap from the starter to the frame if slow cranking is a problem.
Richard


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The best ground is a strap directly from the negative battery post to the starter. The factory ground goes from the battery to transmission to the clutch housing to the starter. A bad connection anywhere along the circuit will cause poor starter performance.


How Sweet the roar of a Chevy four!
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Chev Nut, Chipper:
My old ground strap is currently attached to the upper RH bolt attaching the driveshaft balljoint retaining collar. I was thinking that this may not be the 'correct' location as there are several componants/surfaces that the current must travel through to complete the circuit to the starter. Yet, with a 9 1/2" ground strap, the ground strap would have to be attached someware near the tail of the transmission. I have not checked for a bolt on top of the transmission case extension Chevgene.

Coachhill, P.U. Guy:
From your posts, it sounds like you are connecting your battery ground to the frame which is a more roundabout way to complete the starter circuit as you are depending upon a 'good' connection through the motor and transmission mounts. On newer vehicles there is usually a light ground strap between the engine / transmission to frame to provide good grounding for the lights, gauges, etc. and would be appropriate on my Master if I was having that kind of a problem.

I have just installed the Starterator components and wanted to purchase new 'correct' battery cables and install them properly. I was planning on cheating on the 27" positive cable and upsizing to 0 or 2/0 gage but have not been able to find a ground strap any heavier than 4 gage to date. Both cables need to be the same gage. If I would attach a longer ground strap to the starter mounting bolt instead of the transmisson, then it appears that the battery should be turned end for end and a longer positive cable also used .... is this what you did Chipper?


1934 Chevy 1 1/2 ton Farm Truck
1936 Chevy Master DeLuxe Series FA 5-window coupe
1961 Chevy Series 10 Fleetside
1963 Dodge M37
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From the factory the ground strap went from the battery negative post to the bolt on the transmission. My car has the factory set up and I haven't had an issue with it. I was passing along info from others who have opted for a 'better' ground location due to slow starting issues.

Several sources have been mentioned on this site during the past few months for large gauge cables. I just checked the Filling Station and they have the correct braided ground straps and cables but they do not mention the gauge. A phone call to them would answer that question. JC Whitney has 2/0 cables, but I'm sure a local welding supply shop or farm machinery store would have 0 or 00 gauge cables if needed.

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I have only done it on a temporary basis but connected an additional ground cable between the original location (bolt on transmission) and the upper starter bolt. I do that so I understand if the problem is the ground path from the attachment on the transmission to the starter or another problem. I have always found a terminal or ground problem when starts well when cold but has problems when hot. You could install the extra cable and then remove when you had the vehicle judged. I have also used small pieces of soft copper mashed between parts of the drive train to attempt to keep a good ground path. Seemed to help some.


How Sweet the roar of a Chevy four!
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Thanks for the replies;

I went to Bismarck, ND last week (100 mile round trip) with the intention of buying cables. I visited TSC, Farm & Home Supply and Running's Farm & Fleet (all sold 6 V batteries), with none of them having any positive or negative cables heavier that 4 gage. I also went to two auto supply stores with the same result other than NAPA, they had a 27" 1 gage positive cable, 4 gage ground strap. I went to two Heavy Truck dealers and Interstate Batteries ..... they could make up 2/0 positive cables but did not have the battery positive post connector and none of them had any ground straps other than 4 gage. I then went to Butler (the Cat dealer) and they did have the positive post clamp so could make up the positive 2/0 cable but did not have a ground strap (they use the insulated cable for the ground application).

Is the ground strap attachment bolt you mentioned on top of the extension of the transmission as mentioned by Chevgene?

Fuzzyswede


1934 Chevy 1 1/2 ton Farm Truck
1936 Chevy Master DeLuxe Series FA 5-window coupe
1961 Chevy Series 10 Fleetside
1963 Dodge M37
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You can use any of the bolts on the freewheeling unit or transmission top. Just keep in mind the larger the number of connection points that the electricity flows through the more likely a problem.


How Sweet the roar of a Chevy four!

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